We had our pool/spa w/ Jandy JXI heater installed in May of 2019. Ever since install we have had this error pop up. The first time, in Fall of 2019 the company that installed our pool came out and had to basically replace every single piece of our heater (including the motherboard) and never really figured out what was causing the error, however it miraculously seemed to fix itself and worked for what would end up being a few more months of winter. Fast forward to winter of 2020 and the issue randomly came back again... They again ripped everything apart and replaced just about every piece of the unit and it worked until it started intermittently breaking now in Fall of 2021... Now we can't get it to turn on at all and they want to charge us to "repair it", but honestly, I don't feel like anyone knows what the problem is and I don't feel like paying 10-20 $500 repair bills for repairs that aren't actually fixing our issue... Does anyone know anything about this error code or dealt with this? Jandy says they can't even find documentation of this error code in their manuals... Do we have some sort of a lemon and need to just rip the thing out and pay $5K to install new one? (That would be cheaper than a bunch of repairs over and over again that aren't fixing anything, lol)
HELP! Has anyone ever had a "Fault: Open Flue Sensor" error on their Jandy heaters?
- Thread starter NC Girl
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
Sorry you have not received any replies. Let's see if this gets some attention.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Sorry you have not received any replies. Let's see if this gets some attention.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
I'm no expert in heaters but have a very good background from other areas similar. I've seen moldex and the like plugs, that even when seated properly to its mating socket have the following issue. When these plugs are assembled they crimp on the pin or socket depending which side of the connection we're speaking of and then push in those contacts into the moldex plug from the back till it clicks. The click I speak of is basically a point on the contact that protrudes sideways so when it passes a certain location in the moldex it pops out thus not letting it move backwards. When you push the plug together it's forced to make good contact as it can't reverse and can only remain there for good contact. I have seen more then once when I thought all was plugged in solid that I was missing something in a given circuit. Process of elimination when I checked all connections following a wiring diagram I have found the culprit being that a single pin in a multi wire plug backed out just enough to not make contact. A Slight damage to a crimped pin being inserted into the moldex may not lock it in place and when pushed together it'll back out rather then making contact. Sorry for the winded explanation but I had no other way to explain it. You need to follow every wire till you find the one contact that doesn't continue.