Pool Trouble in Virginia Beach,VA

Pardue14

Active member
Aug 15, 2021
33
Virginia Beach, Virginia
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi all, Crystal from Virginia Beach, VA here. First time poster, long time forum stalker. Relatively new to pool ownership, 5th year and never really had any issues I haven't been able to resolve (mainly credited to this site). However, I sadly admit in this moment, I am defeated. I have an Intex 18 x 48 Prism Frame Vinyl Pool, 6423 gallon max, 1500 gph cartridge pump. So...about 3 weeks ago, I took on yellow algae and won (or at least I think I did). Was able to get the water back to clear, chemicals balanced and finally holding free chlorine again. Unfortunately, that was short lived. My chlorine demand started sky rocketing, 2 pounds of shock would be gone in less than 12 hours. I would add shock at night, test before bed and both free/total chlorine would test high & I would test again first thing in the morning - no chlorine loss. But by 6PM, free/total chlorine both tested at 0. I did this for a few days, gradually increasing the shock each time - 1.5lbs, 2lbs, etc. thinking it was just being drilled by the sunlight. Then, it started to smell like 'too much chlorine' and I realized the additional shock was likely compounding the issue rather than correcting it. My guess was that I had ammonia in the pool and while I was increasing the free chlorine, I wasn't getting it high enough so instead of killing the chloramines, I was essentially feeding them. (This was my thought process, at least.) So I drained the pool halfway, refilled & I decided to use 2 pounds of cal hypo and two pounds of chlorine oxidizer. This immediately turned the pool water milky and we haven't been able to see the pool bottom since a week ago, literally. On the upside, I've been consistently holding cc to around .1. I began worrying that maybe my testing wasn't accurate so ran to the local pool store Saturday morning to have the water tested - their results confirmed my own, everything is balanced. I was a little low on chlorine but I also hadn't put anything in the water for a couple of days. Explained this whole story to the guy, and he said to put two more pounds of cal hypo in the pool, run the pump 24/7 & that should have the pool cleared up in a day or two. He also recommended putting on our pool cover because we had a few days of heavy storms ahead. Anyhow, I added two more bags of cal-hypo as suggested, covered the pool & have had the pump going non-stop. Took the cover off last night and - drumroll please - we are still milky as of this morning with no bottom of the pool in site. Oh, and the chlorine is still testing off the charts from Saturday. Also, I clean my filters religiously - twice a day - and I've noticed since the addition of cal-hypo, there is a white residue on my filter cartridges. Whew. I think that about covers it all.

Long story short - I'm lost. Any help would be beyond greatly appreciated.

Right now, I can't get an accurate reading of my chlorine because the test kits I have doesn't go up high enough. On Saturday, FC was 1.09 and TC was 1.22. Otherwise, my other readings are currently:

PH: 7.4
Hardness: 128 ppm
Alkalinity: 116 ppm
CYA: 68 ppm

Test kits: HTH 1273 6 way test kit; Clorox 3 way test kit; Taylor K1001 Basic DPD Pool kit; Clorox test strips for fun.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Well, you're learning the same way we all did which is why we are here at TFP. Pool store advice is often times wrong. All the effort above was basically wasted time and money. So let's get you back on track:

1. You must obtain either a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. You need one of those.
2. To kill algae, you need to follow the SLAM Process. Take time to review the FC/CYA Levels so you can see how important accurate testing will be.

The link below also is a great resource. But once you get one of those test kits, we can help you get thing fixed.

 
Ordered the Taylor K-2006, should be here Friday. In the mean time, should I go ahead and drain more of the pool to get the CYA down further? Anything else I should do to maintain it until then? I'd like to get this under control as quickly as possible. My two littles don't understand why the pool has been 'sick' for long and why the 'medicine' it keeps getting isn't making it any better!:)
 
I would recommend you wait until you get a proper test kit before doing anything other than the following to your pool water. You do not know what the current CYA is.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
 
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Yeah, no, I definitely missed the 'C'. Not the most ideal, but I should be able to buy more reagents, correct? Also, with the 5 ppm of liquid chlorine - should I only begin to add this once the chlorine levels come back down to normal range or should I add this regardless each night until I get the kit? Also, I do have a CYA test left in the current kit - if that matters.
 
Morning! So the kit came in early, these are my results from this morning:

FC: 6.6
CC: .8
PH: 7.4
ALK: 130
Hardness: 110
CYA: 90

And I'm finally starting to see the bottom of the pool again, but the water overall is still milky. So, what are my next steps?
 

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Bromide = not good.

The chlorine is all turning into bromine.

If you can safely drain and refill, then that's probably the best solution.

Trying to manage an outdoor bromine pool is very difficult.

You can SLAM and probably get the water clear, but the bromine gets burned off by the sun so fast that you would need to add chlorine continuously to keep up.

If you had a SWG, it might be manageable, but for manual dosing, you would need to do it at least 3 times a day every day.
 
It will reduce the amount of bromine. It will have a lessened effect on your FC. but there will still be some effect.
 
I used it twice in succession, about 4 oz total. The directions call for 4 oz per 10,000 gallons, so I halved the dose each time. We drained about a 1/4 and refilled. Then drained half and refilled about a week ago. Is the bromine the likely culprit for the milky water?
 

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