New owner, pool turned green... test kit on the way, what can I do in the meanwhile?

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mknauss said:
That is not a robot. That is a pressure side cleaner. Later we can talk about robots.

If the cleaner was running, I doubt the cover caused the issue. I suspect no chlorine or not sufficient chlorine for your CYA level is what caused the issue.

Post a few pictures of your equipment pad if you want some guidance on what you have. We need you to fill out your signature.
See Create Your Signature - Further Reading
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Additional pictures of the equipment:
https://imgur.com/a/e1aOlMF
 
There should be some ports on the sidewall of the pool that have water coming out of them. That is where the chlorine should be added.
 
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Try adding your equipment to your signature. Pumps, etc. See our signatures for ideas. If looking at the forum on a mobile device, turn it sideways to see our signatures.
 
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mknauss said:
Try adding your equipment to your signature. Pumps, etc. See our signatures for ideas. If looking at the forum on a mobile device, turn it sideways to see our signatures.
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Done! So I actually have no idea if my pool is saltwater... the first day we dipped in it, the water was crystal clear, and it tasted a bit salty... and it didn't have a chlorine smell, so I assumed since then it was saltwater... but looking at all the equipment, I don't see what could be a SWG. There is a Intellipro VS2 but that looks it's another pump, in addition to the Jandy one in my signature.

I finished pouring the gallon of liquid chlorine, I don't know if it's the lighting or if I am just fooling myself but it seems to look slightly better already, I can see the bottom at the deep end whereas I couldn't earlier today. I have the filter running and the cover off and cleaner are both off for now.
 
Chlorine is needed. Keep adding it every day until you get your kit. I suspect we may find you need to drain some water when you get your kit. But lets see the data first.

You only show a small pump, not the VS pump. Be sure to add everything. Also that you have a spillover spa.
Your pool surface is plaster.
 
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onilink763 said:
Should I wait full 24 hours before dumping in the additional gallon of liquid chlorine or is it recommended to start sooner?
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Our recommendation of 5 ppm FC added each day is conservative as we do not know your CYA. We know that much will not harm people or equipment, regardless of CYA. So if you wish to add more, that is at your own peril.
 

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mknauss said:
Our recommendation of 5 ppm FC added each day is conservative as we do not know your CYA. We know that much will not harm people or equipment, regardless of CYA. So if you wish to add more, that is at your own peril.
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I will stick with the 5ppm! I'm very impressed with the results, I thought it was going to take a lot longer to set it back on the right path.
 
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I was advised by a friend to make sure I've backwashed, I looked up directions on the Jandy CL460 and it says "backwashing every time the pressure goes up 10psi right?" Do I need to backwash with this type of filter?
 
onilink763 said:
Jandy CL460
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That is a cartridge filter. You cannot backwash that. You pull apart the filter and clean the filters.

You should clean the filters when the filter pressure rises by 25% over clean pressure. Do you know the clean pressure?
 
mknauss said:
That is a cartridge filter. You cannot backwash that. You pull apart the filter and clean the filters.

You should clean the filters when the filter pressure rises by 25% over clean pressure. Do you know the clean pressure?
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I don't... I think I need a new pressure gauge because the current one is all fogged up / dirty from the inside, I was going to follow the instructions in this video for the cleaning process:
 
Ok here are the results, it was fun doing this, felt like Breaking Badf:

Chlorine Test (1st one, no smart stir): It took about 5 scoops of DPD to get it to that hard pink, but at this round, my free chlorine came at 2.4ppm and my combined chlorine at 1ppm.

PH: 7.8

Total Alkalinity: 170

CYA was tricky, at 70 it was pretty cloudy but I could still make out the black dot, it was completely gone at 50.

Remembering I had the smart stir, I decided to do the chlorine test again, this time I decided to stick with the recommended 2 scoops of DPD even though the water only turned into a soft pink, my free chlorine came at 0.6 and my combined chlorine was 0.4.

Salt: 3800ppm (does this mean I have a SWG?)
 
Did you use a 10 ml water sample for the FC test?

I would call your CYA at 60 ppm.

3800 ppm salinity means you have salty water. You would need to show a picture of your equipment pad to help on what you have.

You need to lower your pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid. Then add liquid chlorine to get to 24ppm FC. Test and add liquid chlorine every few hours to maintain 24 ppm FC. Brush and vacuum every day. Follow the SLAM Process
 
onilink763 said:
Ok here are the results, it was fun doing this, felt like Breaking Badf:

Chlorine Test (1st one, no smart stir): It took about 5 scoops of DPD to get it to that hard pink, but at this round, my free chlorine came at 2.4ppm and my combined chlorine at 1ppm.

PH: 7.8

Total Alkalinity: 170

CYA was tricky, at 70 it was pretty cloudy but I could still make out the black dot, it was completely gone at 50.

Remembering I had the smart stir, I decided to do the chlorine test again, this time I decided to stick with the recommended 2 scoops of DPD even though the water only turned into a soft pink, my free chlorine came at 0.6 and my combined chlorine was 0.4.

Salt: 3800ppm (does this mean I have a SWG?)
Click to expand...
Make sure when using smartstirr that you fill the vial to whatever line you're aiming for and then drop the pill into the solution.
 

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