Question about Pump and Timer Wiring for New Variable Speed Pump

Jun 16, 2015
102
Voorhees, NJ
I am in the process of upgrading my pump to a Pentair IntelliFlo variable speed, and I want to make sure I wire this correctly. I currently have a 15A breaker with 14AWG wiring. My plan is to replace it with 12AWG stranded THHN/THWN and a 20A breaker (it appears to require a 20A breaker per the specifications in the manual).

Right now, the pump and SWG are pigtailed together with two wires to the timer load. There are two line wires from the double pole breaker to the 2 timer terminals. My understanding is that I will remove the pump wiring that is pigtailed to the SWG and timer load. I will then connect the pump wire and line wire from the timer and pigtail both connections to the double pole breaker. I’m assuming it’s okay to power the SWG on the same breaker as the pump. It actually looks like the SWG is supposed to be on a 20A breaker.

One last question. I have this smaller gauge wire that has been wrapped and taped off, and it’s just sitting there. I would like to get rid of this, but I don’t know what it’s for. It’s connected to 2 black wires on the timer. I’ve attached pictures.
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Your new VS pump gets connected to the LINE side of the timer.

The SWG stays on the LOAD side of the timer.

The timer should turn the SWG on and off within the time the VS pump runs.

Your timer has a heater cooldown switch (156T4042A Heater Control Switch Kit) that will open the fireman's switch on the heater 20 minutes before the timer, usually controlling the filter pump, will shut off. You can remove it if your heater does not require a cool down before the pump is stopped.
 
Your new VS pump gets connected to the LINE side of the timer.

The SWG stays on the LOAD side of the timer.

The timer should turn the SWG on and off within the time the VS pump runs.

Your timer has a heater cooldown switch (156T4042A Heater Control Switch Kit) that will open the fireman's switch on the heater 20 minutes before the timer, usually controlling the filter pump, will shut off. You can remove it if your heater does not require a cool down before the pump is stopped.
Thanks! What is the correct way for 2 wires to be on the line side of the timer? I know with breakers, you are not supposed to “double lug” them. I wasn’t sure if I pigtail first and then just run one wire to the line terminal.

I have a feeling that the heater cool down wiring is from our millivolt unit. I replaced it with an electronic ignition model, and maybe they just never removed the wiring.
 
You can put 2 wires on the left and right side of the line screw. Or you can pigtail them.

Check your heater manual if it requires a cool down before the pump turns off.
 
You can put 2 wires on the left and right side of the line screw. Or you can pigtail them.

Check your heater manual if it requires a cool down before the pump turns off.
I checked the manual, and I’m not sure if it’s required or optional. We run the heater periodically and usually turn it off before the pump goes off. There are cases where we forget, and it turns off on its own (water pressure switch I assume). It will then resume the next day, unless we manually turn it off. Is this bad for the heater? Thank you for all of your help with my questions.

From the manual:
Time Clock/Fireman’s Switch
To operate the heater with a time clock, connect the timer to the fireman’s switch connection in the heater’s wiring. The time clock should be of the dual-switch type and set to shut off the call for heat to the pool heater 15 to 20 minutes prior to shutting down the pool pump.
The fireman’s switch connection is located on the 14- pin header connected to the digital control board. Splice into the red wire jumper tagged “Where necessary add “Fireman’s” switch circuit here” to connect the time clock.
 
Please put the model number of your heater in your signature so I know what we are discussing.
 
The Raypak heater does not require a cooldown.
 
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