CC level of 8.19ppm - should I really add 20 lbs of cal hypo!?

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S

sandj44

Member
May 22, 2020
24
Philadelphia, PA
Hello,
Updated:
Here are my results from the Taylor Kit:

FC: 1
TC: 9
CC: 8
pH: 7.6
TA: 120
CYA: 30


My test results from today are below. Pool is clear and blue; I recently backwashed AND cleaned my filter grids. Both the Pool Doctor app and Leslie's are telling me I should add almost 20 lbs of calcium hypochlorite to free up my CC. The Pool Math app is telling me much less than that. I don't want to waste all of that product if it's not necessary. I've already added muriatic acid. How much would you add to clear up this CC?! Thanks so much

FC = .93
TC = 9.12
CC= 8.19
pH = 7.7
TA = 124
Ca Hardness = 263
CYA = 27
Phosphates = 110
 
Last edited:
First off, those test results look like Leslie’s test results. They are not that reliable or accurate in most cases. Your signature indicates you have a Taylor K-2006 test kit. Is it the K-2006C? If so, what are your results from your testing?
 

Newbie advice needed- VERY high CC

Hello - I am new to pool care and I want to make sure the advice I was given is correct before adding 14 GALLONS of liquid Cl. Last night I followed the SLAM chart and added 3 gal of liquid. Today I took a sample to Leslies because i thought I was using my new Taylor K-2006 kit wrong when I got...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Seems like this happened before?

How long did that take to clear?

Are you using Jack's #2 copper and scale stuff?

If yes, that will cause the issue.

If no, bacteria probably ate the CYA and converted it to ammonia.

If it's ammonia, the pH and TA will drop when adding liquid chlorine.
 
I wouldn't add any CalHypo. Those test results make no sense unless you've added some chemical that screws up the testing? MPS Shock can do that, and possible some metal treatments? What all have you added to that water?

For owning a large investment like that you *really* need your own test kit. STop playing around with pool stores. They just need to sell you something and that often causes you problems so they sell you something more. We don't play that game at TFP.
The two test kits we trust- TF-100 or the K-2006C (both equal in reagent quantity, both use Taylor reagents, but the TF-100 is cheaper) You can see it at www.tftestkits.net

Liquid chlorine is an ideal form of chlorine and it adds no unwanted "side elements" such as calcium or CYA which build up in pools and cause problems.

You *should* have higher calcium to protect your pool plaster.... but that's not anything to do with CCs.

Maddie :flower:
 
Oxidizing ammonia creates acid by releasing hydrogen.

More than 95% of ammonia is in the form of the ammonium ion (NH4+)

2NH4+ + 3OCl- --> N2 + 3H2O + 2H+ +3Cl-

When adding 12.5% sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) to a pool to oxidize ammonia, every gallon of liquid chlorine will create the equivalent of 15 ounces of 31.45% hydrochloric acid.

10 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine added to 25,000 gallons of pool water with ammonia will lower the TA by about 23 ppm or the equivalent of adding 150 ounces of full strength 31.45% muriatic acid.

Every 8.53 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine is equivalent to about 1 gallon of 31.45% acid.
 

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JamesW said:

Newbie advice needed- VERY high CC

Hello - I am new to pool care and I want to make sure the advice I was given is correct before adding 14 GALLONS of liquid Cl. Last night I followed the SLAM chart and added 3 gal of liquid. Today I took a sample to Leslies because i thought I was using my new Taylor K-2006 kit wrong when I got...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Seems like this happened before?

How long did that take to clear?

Are you using Jack's #2 copper and scale stuff?

If yes, that will cause the issue.

If no, bacteria probably ate the CYA and converted it to ammonia.

If it's ammonia, the pH and TA will drop when adding liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...
I honestly don't remember what happened last year - I was trying to to remember and just can't! I added Metal Free because I had copper in the water. Would that do it? Thanks :)
 
Thank you for this reply. It's very helpful. I added Metal Free due to Copper in the water. I have a Taylor Kit. I'll stop going to the pool store and trust my kit!
YippeeSkippy said:
I wouldn't add any CalHypo. Those test results make no sense unless you've added some chemical that screws up the testing? MPS Shock can do that, and possible some metal treatments? What all have you added to that water?

For owning a large investment like that you *really* need your own test kit. STop playing around with pool stores. They just need to sell you something and that often causes you problems so they sell you something more. We don't play that game at TFP.
The two test kits we trust- TF-100 or the K-2006C (both equal in reagent quantity, both use Taylor reagents, but the TF-100 is cheaper) You can see it at www.tftestkits.net

Liquid chlorine is an ideal form of chlorine and it adds no unwanted "side elements" such as calcium or CYA which build up in pools and cause problems.

You *should* have higher calcium to protect your pool plaster.... but that's not anything to do with CCs.

Maddie
Click to expand...
 
mknauss said:
Then post those results. We will not provide guidance based on pool store tests.
Click to expand...
Here are my results from the Taylor Kit:

FC: 1
TC: 9
CC: 8
pH: 7.6
TA: 120
CYA: 30
Thanks!
JamesW said:
Sulfamic acid will cause high CC levels.

What exact copper product did you use?

Use liquid chlorine to do a SLAM and check the pH and TA to see if they are dropping.
Click to expand...
 
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