classic pump lid bubble

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I have a JVX300 and it only fills halfway, main drains are via skimmer with a diverter valve. With the skimmer hole to the pump plugged with a test mechanical plug and an adaptor on the pump suction pipe side with 25psi via a Schrader valve and air compressor i can hold 25psi. Suction is very strong as well so I dont think any blocks? I'm lost
 
have you lubed the pump lid? Actually take the o ring out, clean it up real good and clean the inside where the o ring goes and use new lube.. :)

That is usually where the air comes in from..
 
yes, I've replaced all 3 check valves and all 3 of my diverter valves all with new lube. i wanted to make sure all rubber gaskets were good. I can fill the basket with water and it will stay full while I put the lid on, I turn it on 3000RPM and open the filter pressure relief until water comes out and look at the pump to see halfway full with water. :unsure: I've put cement on outter joints after running water over lines and lid and just at a loss with no change
 
how high up the skimmer is your water level? Does it look like a tornado in the skimmer?

Suction side leaks are the hardest to find but you have pressurized the pipes so you do not have a leak in the pipes... It has to be in the skimmer or the pump somewhere..
 
is this new or has it always done this? If new did something else get changed or happen? just grasping at straws here..
 
went from SS to VS, I suppose next step would be go back to SS and see what happens. I left extra pipe on the old pumps unions so I can revert back
 
will it stay full at lower RPM... it really does not make sense. it has to have a leak somewhere if air is getting into the system...
 
cowboycasey said:
have you lubed the pump lid? Actually take the o ring out, clean it up real good and clean the inside where the o ring goes and use new lube.. :)

That is usually where the air comes in from..
Click to expand...

aquam4n said:
yes, I've replaced all 3 check valves and all 3 of my diverter valves all with new lube.
Click to expand...
Casey is asking about the pump lid, not the valves. On the removable pump basket lid there is also a rubber seal/O-ring - have you cleaned the track that it sits in and lubed that seal as well? I'm sure you have, just looking to clarify since you started talking about valves when asked about the lid. (y)

Side note, mine only will develop a (small) bubble at low RPM. When the pump kicks on and primes at full power for a few minutes any air that was in the basket is purged out, but after a few hours running at 1400 RPM or so there is a friendly little bubble on occasion. But he's nice.
 

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Auburn02 said:
Casey is asking about the pump lid, not the valves. On the removeable pump basket lid there is also a rubber seal/O-ring - have you cleaned the track that it sits in and lubed that seal as well? I'm sure you have, just looking to clarify since you started talking about valves when asked about the lid. (y)

Side note, mine only will develop a (small) bubble at low RPM. When the pump kicks on and primes at full power for a few minutes any air that was in the basket is purged out, but after a few hours running at 1400 RPM or so there is a friendly little bubble on occasion. But he's nice.
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Yes I have verified the lid o-ring. any harm in putting a 2" x 2" rubber coupler with a blocked off PVC cap with a shrader valve on the PVC on the output of the pump, block off the port at the skimmer and inject 20PSI? see if it holds? would that hurt anything? I've done pressure with no pump involved but if I do it with pump and it doesn't hold?
 
your trying to block the skimmer and the pressure side of the pump and pressurize the whole pump and line.. correct
 
cowboycasey said:
your trying to block the skimmer and the pressure side of the pump and pressurize the whole pump and line.. correct
Click to expand...
yes, use the pressure side of the pump to inject 25PSI or so into the line with the skimmer blocked off with a mechanical test plug
 
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aquam4n said:
yes, use the pressure side of the pump to inject 25PSI or so into the line with the skimmer blocked off with a mechanical test plug
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Are the 3 way valves suppose to be PERFECTLY sealed in the off position for whatever is turned off? As in I injected air (15 psi) and can hear a very slight air leak inside the housing. 3 psi loss in a minute on the suction valve thats connected to skimmer and dedicated vacuum line. If that needs to be replaced thats going to be fun.......I can post a picture


On a side note 3 psi loss from 15psi in a minute, id have to guess whats happening with 25+ with the pump running. Makes sense now.....
 
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you found your leak :)

It should not be leaking anything at all.. can you rebuild it? or maybe a hairline crack??
 
I'm going to redo my pad

I have a set of drains on the side of the pool wall that were never hooked up and capped off, would it be beneficial in anyway to tie them into the suction line and if I do have a valve to turn them off? as I have a set of floor drains also connected to 1st port on skimmer controlled via UFO diverter below skimmer basket

instead of a 3 way valve that connects my dedicated vacuum line that's on the side of the pool (which is square shape) for the robot, I was thinking there has to be a way to make that line on its own valve for flow control and have the skimmer on its own valve as well so I don't have to deal with a 3 way again and in the future making repair or modification if ever necessary much more convenient?pipes.jpg
 
I went with 3 way valves on everything the first time... This time I am going with 2 way Jandy valves for everything.. It is more expensive but it gives great control over every single suction and return side pipe... it can be used to troubleshoot each pipe for leaks, it is just a better way to do it..

Is the spare drain a bottom drain or side drain? If you did all 4 in 2 way Jandy into 1 pipe for the pump it would make very easy to know if one was leaking :)

If you ever automate the pool and spa valves it would take 2, 24v systems to make it work instead of 1 for the 3 way valve..
 

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