Pool Company finished and said here you go... Help please

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I know JamesW and I are giving you different directions. Both get you were you need to get. If you have baking soda , do that. If not, follow the soda ash process.
 
mknauss said:
If you can, yes.
I would start with 16 oz of soda ash. Brush well after adding and test pH and TA again. Keep doing that until you get a TA reading.
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Sounds good. I will go do that now.

Also going to run to Walmart and grab some bleach or liquid chlorine as suggested above.

If I remove the paks form the Frog XL as suggested should I just set the dials to 0 and they theoretically just pass water through them?
 
Lokren said:
If I remove the paks form the Frog XL as suggested should I just set the dials to 0 and they theoretically just pass water through them?
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What ever it takes to quit using the pacs. Eventually you will be able to use up the trichlor one. But the mineral one should stay out. With your acidic water flowing through it now, most of the copper and silver in it is probably in the pool already.
 
Lokren said:
The trichloro one is completely empty.
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Any idea how much trichlor is actually in one of those?

Nice looking pool. Stick around here and it will stay that way.

Keep checking that pH and TA, need to get that up ASAP.
 
Let's call it 5lbs of trichlor,

That would add 70 ppm of FC (which burns off); 43 ppm of CYA (which matches what you measured), and lower your pH by 3.8.

Not good over 2.5 weeks.
 

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Net weight means chemicals only.

That will
FC raise by 87 ppm.
CYA raise by 53 ppm.
TA lower by 61ppm.

What is the fill water TA?

I would do a diluted FC test to see what the FC really is.
 
JamesW said:
Net weight means chemicals only.

That will
FC raise by 87 ppm.
CYA raise by 53 ppm.
TA lower by 61ppm.

What is the fill water TA?

I would do a diluted FC test to see what the FC really is.
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I’ll do the diluted on you suggested tomorrow I need to run out and get distilled water.

when you say why is the TA of the fill water? You mean the water added to the pool? Idk it came in on a truck when they installed it. Otherwise it’s been rain and about and inch from the hose.
 
If you have bottled water, you can use that instead of distilled water.

It should not contain chlorine, but test it to be sure.

Also, do the TA test again to see if it is still going red right away.

If it goes red right away, use the base demand reagent drop by drop to change it from red to green to see how many drops it takes. Swirl to mix between drops.
 
JamesW said:
If you have bottled water, you can use that instead of distilled water.

It should not contain chlorine, but test it to be sure.

Also, do the TA test again to see if it is still going red right away.

If it goes red right away, use the base demand reagent drop by drop to change it from red to green to see how many drops it takes. Swirl to mix between drops.
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So I did the diluted test and it still came out clear. If there is pink in it then it’s very very light.

updated numbers after 16oz of soda ash.

FC= 0 I am assuming about to add bleach

TA = 30 so this is improved

pH= Less then 7 but the base demand is 8 drops instead of 20 like yesterday so trending correctly I assume

CYA = 45 still

CH = 50 waiting on calcium chloride in the mail

so plan is to add the bleach to the pool and add more soda ash. Does this sound right?
 
If your FC was sky high a day ago, I would be hesitant about adding FC.

With a TA of 30 and pH coming close, time to switch to baking soda. You should be able to add 40 ppm TA worth of baking soda and your pH will rise naturally.
 
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mknauss said:
If your FC was sky high a day ago, I would be hesitant about adding FC.
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I agree, you want to be really sure that the fc is not super high and bleaching out the reagent.

Try an OTO chlorine test or do a 9 to 1 dilution and an FASDPD chlorine test.

Also, don't add calcium on the same day as adding any other chemical.
 
JamesW said:
I agree, you want to be really sure that the fc is not super high and bleaching out the reagent.

Try an OTO chlorine test or do a 9 to 1 dilution and an FASDPD chlorine test.

Also, don't add calcium on the same day as adding any other chemical.
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Well, I was too quick for myself and didn't wait to read replies before I did what I said above. So here is the results from after adding what I mentioned above so I also did not see the comment about baking soda instead of soda ash. I will make sure to slow down in the future and double check what I am doing. I added another 16 oz of soda ash and 81 oz of bleach. I think adding the soda ash again instead of the suggested baking soda raised the pH higher then its supposed to be. FC was actually present this time. The water changed colors right away. So I do not believe it was bleaching it out. I know the sun breaks down the chlorine but how does my UV sanitizer affect it?

FC = 6ppm
CC = 1ppm
TA = 40(increase by 10 from earlier)
pH= 8? Please reference picture color matching is hard for me.

pH april 13.jpg
 
OK -- the pH is near 8 but not a big deal right now. Wait until tomorrow some time and test again.

Prior to adding any acid, you should get your TA to 60 to 70 ppm using baking soda. Then test pH after it is well mixed and add acid to get the pH to 7,6.

Use the FC/CYA Levels to maintain your FC based on your CYA using liquid chlorine.
 

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