Hayward SAS-ABG

[lplatz]

Hello all. Looks like it time to replace my Hayward AQ-TROL-RJ this year. I limped through last year, but time to replace existing system which was undersized to begin with, so this year it's time to replace existing system or update to something new.

Question regarding the "something new" option. I've come across the Hayward SAS-ABG system. It appears optimal for my 20,000 gal above ground pool and the install looks pretty straight forward. Is anyone on this forum familiar with this system or a current user? I'm curious how this runs in parallel with the pool filter. Can it be plugged into a timer to run at the same time as the filter. From what I'm reading, you plug in the SAS after completing the calibration, initially set it up to run about 30 minutes per hour, then modify that "as-needed". The filter has to be running for the SAS to operate. I typically run my filter 8 hours a day (give or take) during the summer. Running filter 24 hours a day to support the SAS appears excessive. I'm definately missing something here. Please advise my options for install. Thank you in advance.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Have you looked at discountsaltpools.com for their chart of salt cells features?

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

That Hayward Salt and Swim system is actually under rated for your pool. You should be getting a cell that is at least 2x the size of your pool in gallons.
The Aquarite T-15 cell is a good fit for you. It is rated for 40,000 gallons.

This allows you to NOT run your system around the clock. And hopefully extends the lifespan of the cell.

Maddie

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Ip,
How old is your TROL-RJ board and what is the software build? If the board is still operational then you may want to consider replacing the cell with a T-15 rated @40k gals. Let us know how you want to proceed.

 

[lplatz]

Unsure where to aquire the software build information. We purchased this home recently and pool came with the house. First time with an above ground and first time with a salt water pool. As I understand it, I don't believe this control panel will accommodate a larger cell. I hope I'm wrong. A vendor recently recommended another swg system that I'll post here shortly to supplement this post... or better yet, I'll start new thread for that suggestion to get community input. Vendors are great, but users are the best source for feedback.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Run the pump and power on the Aquatrol. Place the switch to auto and then push the diagnostic button located on the left hand side of the display sub sequentially. Record and post the readings.
Yes, you are correct! The Aquatrol can only take T-5! For reasons unknown to many, Hayward is not disclosing that it can also take the larger T-15 cell by putting a jumper across J4.
Below is a pic of the GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ with newest software r1.47 for reference (ignore J7). Do not expect for the pin header at J4 present on your board. Install one if you can or just solder a jumper wire across J4 pads.
J4 Jumper allocation:
Jumper ON = T-15 , Jumper OFF = T-5.

 

[lplatz]

Diagnostic Readings
64
32.8
0.00
91P
- 0
AL - 7
r 1.45
1800

I've never pulled the hood on the control box. Sounds fun. So I'll need a jumper for the J4 pins. I'm guessing I'll first need to update the software (if that is even possible). I'll post a picture of the board shortly.

 

[lplatz]

It appears my board is a bit dated. I don't have pins for J4.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Nope, you'll gain nothing updating the software. Be aware, all TROL pcb's are shipped without the pin header at J4. You will need to solder a jumper wire across the two solder pads to make it work with a T-15 cell. The J4 header you saw earlier in the pic was installed by me. Based on the diagnostics, your trol is not producing chlorine. Do you have a reliable salt test kit like the K-1766 to confirm the actual salt level in your pool water? Fyi, Hayward recommends the salt level between 2700-3400ppm.
Should you wish to proceed, replace the E5 black wire female spade connector before it goes up in smoke. Fyi, the output terminals labeled BLK (E5) and WHT (E6) carry the 120vac to the motor pump. It's basically a on/off switch via the K3 relay.

 

[lplatz]

A bit off topic, but do you have a vendor site for ordering a new E5 connector plug? Updating boards is not my typical playground. For the J4 connection, can I simply lay a strip of solder between the two pads? It will be permanant, but I won't be reverting this board in the future back to supporting a T5 cell.

 

[Andrew_D]

The connector on the black wire that goes to E5 should be available at any hardware store. Automotive stores should have it also.

You may or may not have luck connecting the J4 pads with solder. I would use a small piece of wire. 1-2" long. Strip and solder both ends. With solder on the wire (and the solder that is already on the pad), use the soldering iron to melt both and hold them together. Repeat for other pad.

Andrew

 

[lplatz]

My salt tested out slightly over the max. (3460) Given that my current T-5 Cell is not working, how reliable can the readings be that I entered earlier? I inherited a mess with this pool.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

A bit off topic, but do you have a vendor site for ordering a new E5 connector plug?

You can source the spade connectors at your local auto supply.

For the J4 connection, can I simply lay a strip of solder between the two pads?

Yes

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

I'm too slow. Andrew beat me! Thanks man..

@OP, how are you testing the salt level? According to your diagnostics, the average salt level is 1800ppm.
Run the diagnostics 10 seconds after you hear the relay clicked and report back.

 

[lplatz]

The existing turbo cell is bad/dead. That is, in part, the reason for my replacement and upgrade of the cell to a size more appropriate for my pool size. Again, I inherited a pool that had been abandoned for an extended period of time. It's a good pool, but needs some TLC.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Understood! You've come in the right place and I'm pretty sure you'll get a lot help here from the experts, just ask! As you may already know by now, the guesstrip and pool store testing results are frown upon here. Should you wish to maintain your own pool, you need to get a reliable test kit like the Taylor K-1766 and TF-100 or K-2006C. Others may be able to provide the link.
Anyway, looks like your TROL mainboard is still operational. But of course, the decision is yours! And before investing on a T-15 cell, make sure the timer is working properly and don't forget to inspect the condition of the thermistor. Replace if necessary in preparation for the much high current T-15 cell. Since you have the r1.45 build, you may want to keep a spare thermistor. There's a handful of youtube videos on how to solder the thermistor on a Aquarite board. And yeah, the Aquarite and the TROL model uses the same thermistor. Also, try to remove the board and inspect for burned solder. Focus on the thermistor and relays solder joint.
I might have missed something but let's hear from others.

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

 

[lplatz]

RE: Timer. I have a few switches I discovered were not working last year. Overall, the time timer works, but will shut off when it crosses a bad switch, then turns back on. Are replacement timers available for this dated Hayward control panel?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Google search for GLX-TROL-TIMER
Like this one from Amazon or this one

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

 

[lplatz]

Google search for GLX-TROL-TIMER
Like this one from Amazon or this one

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

Thank you for the lead on a new timer. I've stashed away onto my Amazon wishlist.

 

[lplatz]

It's been mentioned that I might consider replacing the thermistor on the board while I've got the board pulled. Two questions: what does the thermistor do and how do you know when it's gone bad? Do these items fail on a regular basis?

 

[red-beard]

Thermistor is a two wire resistive temperature device. If you read resistance with a volt-ohm meter, it is probably good. Open circuit or short circuit is bad. Usually they are 100 Ohm, 1K Ohm or 10K ohm. not sure on this particular one.