Startup SWG chlorinator salt for new pool
- Thread starter FIESTA62
- Start date
did backwash 3 minutes, first minute view bubble was pretty cloudy , all clear now, topping up water level now, most tests i have done needed 2 litres of chlorine, but i did not test this time as refilling water i assume will mess testing up, i put in 2 litre chlorine for good measure and will test again when pool is at correct level
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Have you pulled your lights and brushed the niches? as well as the skimmer box? Them 'lil green algae dudes hide everywhere. I always find it builds up in my waterfall intakes if I am not careful.
have not pulled lights, skimmer i can see is clean, pool is only 6 months old everything looks new, the pool area itself looks too me to be spotless, could there really be enough algae hidden in lights to cause the amount of chlorine loss i been getting ? the lights are those new aquaquip Evo2 flush mount leds i doubt anything is hiding there
i have only ever seen 1 area of stain and even that was faint, but gone now....
soon as pool is full i will give it a extra 30 minutes to circulate new water, then test
pool water full, vacuumed, pump basket clean , nothing more i can do, tested at 4.30 FC 27, pool math says add 2.2 litres, i added 3 litres, test again at 6.30,
so far i have added 53 litres since starting slam....
so far i have added 53 litres since starting slam....
6.30 FC 29.....added another 3 litres
pump been going constant 3 days now should i be turning it off for a break ? i assume you all will say nope but just asking anyway....
pump been going constant 3 days now should i be turning it off for a break ? i assume you all will say nope but just asking anyway....
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,221
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Keep the pump running. You want to make sure that areas that consume chlorine have a constant fresh water supply, good circulation is important. Doesn't have to be fast, but it needs to be constant.
Let's wait for the morning...
Let's wait for the morning...
last night 830 pm FC 35.5 this morning 7.30 am FC 30, loss overnight 5.5 , both tests 10ml , math says add 1.4 litres, i added 3 litres
830 am just hour later using 5 ml test FC 40, ( yes i know i put too much in )
still getting a big loss overnight, thinking today i will try and test every hour to really keep the level up, adding the correct amount each time as needed
i wont post every test and bug you guys , will check back in tomorrow morning with overnight test result
830 am just hour later using 5 ml test FC 40, ( yes i know i put too much in )
still getting a big loss overnight, thinking today i will try and test every hour to really keep the level up, adding the correct amount each time as needed
i wont post every test and bug you guys , will check back in tomorrow morning with overnight test result
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,662
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I think you made my comment for me. You're not helping anything by adding more. It's just burning off. The only way you can speed up the process is to add it more often. The less you let it slip below 35, the better.
I think this is the tough part of a SLAM. You think you're not getting anywhere. You might start to fudge, shortcut. We've seen it here before. Ya gotta trust the process and the instructions and muscle through this phase...
I didn't want to offer the following, because it can lead to cheating, but it can help the process if you don't abuse it. If you're seeing consistent FC loss between dosings, you can go out and pour in half that amount between tests, to help keep the FC level up. So say you're going through 1 liter every two hours. Pour in a half a liter after one hour, without testing. Fast and easy. Then when the two hour mark comes around again, test and dose as usual. It won't take too much extra effort, and it'll help keep the FC level closer to 35 more often. Throwing in the extra chlorine in between regular dosings is better than overdosing the regular dosings, if that makes sense.
I think this is the tough part of a SLAM. You think you're not getting anywhere. You might start to fudge, shortcut. We've seen it here before. Ya gotta trust the process and the instructions and muscle through this phase...
I didn't want to offer the following, because it can lead to cheating, but it can help the process if you don't abuse it. If you're seeing consistent FC loss between dosings, you can go out and pour in half that amount between tests, to help keep the FC level up. So say you're going through 1 liter every two hours. Pour in a half a liter after one hour, without testing. Fast and easy. Then when the two hour mark comes around again, test and dose as usual. It won't take too much extra effort, and it'll help keep the FC level closer to 35 more often. Throwing in the extra chlorine in between regular dosings is better than overdosing the regular dosings, if that makes sense.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
That means you are making progress... I mentioned the light niches because they don't get water flushing through them. It sounds like you are in the final phase of killing off the suspended "invisible" algae.. The OCLT is what tells you you've gotten there. Keep up with it. These words of encouragement are brought to you by the blue dude with the thumb
hi, yep i been feeling a bit discouraged as it does not seem to be getting anywhere, latest figures
7.30 am fc 30 add 3 litres..........8.30 am fc 40.............9.45 am fc 35
off to buy more chlorine
7.30 am fc 30 add 3 litres..........8.30 am fc 40.............9.45 am fc 35
off to buy more chlorine
ok i get what your saying in regards to do tests every 2 hours, but i will do every hour today thinking thats going to keep it more stable, but i will try what you said if i don't get anywhere soon, i figure if i do every hour and only add exactly what pool math says then i know exactly what loss i am getting....no fun
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,221
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
I think, Dirk's advice makes perfect sense.
Don't forget that you are are at the very end where a SLAM is still just possible. Your target CYA is 80, interpreting your last CYA test conservatively, you're assuming 90 for the SLAM. Since you really just had a hint of algae, we thought that it makes sense to proceed with the SLAM.
But I think you're getting the picture now, why we would ask someone joining TFP with a swamp and CYA 90 to replace some of the water to get CYA down before starting to SLAM. It is difficult to maintain the required high SLAM levels.
This is also one of the reasons why TFP recommends the higher target CYA of 80 only for SWG pools. With the more constant chlorination throughout the day, the risk is much lower to slip below min. That justifies to take advantage of the much reduced UV-losses at higher CYA, allowing to run the SWG on much lower output, which in turn will extend the cell's lifetime.
For a pool that gets a manual dosage of chlorine every 1 to 3 days or so, the risk is much, much higher to slip below min, resulting in a massive algae bloom because it might take a few days to realise what's going on. The potential chlorine savings at higher CYA apply of course also to non-SWG pools, but the risk of having to SLAM is much higher - and also the extent of an algae infestation is likely to be much higher than in your case - which at high CYA is not much fun. That's why TFP doesn't recommend higher CYA for liquid chlorine pools.
And for SWG-pools where TFP thinks that it's worth taking advantage of the reduced chlorine demand at higher CYA, it's very important to ensure to never let FC slip too low. Depending on the individual setup (UV-load, bather-load, water temperature, testing frequency, etc), this might require a higher personal target-FC than listed for SWG-pools in the FC/CYA-chart. That's perfectly fine - it might cost a bit more in daily chlorine production, but if that's what is required to avoid slipping too low, then it's worth it.
It could make sense to confirm your CYA again. You were maintaining very high chlorine levels for some time now, which results in accelerated oxidation of CYA. Since you were only conservatively assuming CYA 90, you might actually test your CYA safely as 80 now, which would make your SLAM a bit easier.
When testing CYA at very high chlorine levels, you should neutralise the chlorine in your sample first, because all that chlorine attached to CYA can prevent some CYA from clouding out. You can do that by adding a drop of the buffer solution from the TA-test to the 5ml water sample before adding the CYA reagent.
Keep up the good work, you're doing great
Don't forget that you are are at the very end where a SLAM is still just possible. Your target CYA is 80, interpreting your last CYA test conservatively, you're assuming 90 for the SLAM. Since you really just had a hint of algae, we thought that it makes sense to proceed with the SLAM.
But I think you're getting the picture now, why we would ask someone joining TFP with a swamp and CYA 90 to replace some of the water to get CYA down before starting to SLAM. It is difficult to maintain the required high SLAM levels.
This is also one of the reasons why TFP recommends the higher target CYA of 80 only for SWG pools. With the more constant chlorination throughout the day, the risk is much lower to slip below min. That justifies to take advantage of the much reduced UV-losses at higher CYA, allowing to run the SWG on much lower output, which in turn will extend the cell's lifetime.
For a pool that gets a manual dosage of chlorine every 1 to 3 days or so, the risk is much, much higher to slip below min, resulting in a massive algae bloom because it might take a few days to realise what's going on. The potential chlorine savings at higher CYA apply of course also to non-SWG pools, but the risk of having to SLAM is much higher - and also the extent of an algae infestation is likely to be much higher than in your case - which at high CYA is not much fun. That's why TFP doesn't recommend higher CYA for liquid chlorine pools.
And for SWG-pools where TFP thinks that it's worth taking advantage of the reduced chlorine demand at higher CYA, it's very important to ensure to never let FC slip too low. Depending on the individual setup (UV-load, bather-load, water temperature, testing frequency, etc), this might require a higher personal target-FC than listed for SWG-pools in the FC/CYA-chart. That's perfectly fine - it might cost a bit more in daily chlorine production, but if that's what is required to avoid slipping too low, then it's worth it.
It could make sense to confirm your CYA again. You were maintaining very high chlorine levels for some time now, which results in accelerated oxidation of CYA. Since you were only conservatively assuming CYA 90, you might actually test your CYA safely as 80 now, which would make your SLAM a bit easier.
When testing CYA at very high chlorine levels, you should neutralise the chlorine in your sample first, because all that chlorine attached to CYA can prevent some CYA from clouding out. You can do that by adding a drop of the buffer solution from the TA-test to the 5ml water sample before adding the CYA reagent.
Keep up the good work, you're doing great
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,662
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
To continue mg's thought... (for when you're done with the SLAM)
I've offered this many times at TFP, and probably in this thread. I treat my target FC as my minimum. I treat getting at, or slightly below target FC as an emergency that must be corrected immediately. And I "pretend" my target FC is 1 or 2ppm higher than the FC/CYA chart says. This means I never get anywhere near my actual minimum FC. And you're living the why. No way do I ever want to have to SLAM my pool. I would rather waste a little SWG hours (by keeping the output a bit higher than necessary), than ever get an algae outbreak. And even then, I had a little one last summer. So I now know my real minimum FC is dead on. I slipped below it for a few days and BAM. Which only proves this MO. Never let your FC dip below the target, and run FC a little high to make sure of it.
I'll bet if I did the math, the cost of a SLAM (in liquid chlorine and time) wouldn't be any more than the SWG hours I burn avoiding one...
I've offered this many times at TFP, and probably in this thread. I treat my target FC as my minimum. I treat getting at, or slightly below target FC as an emergency that must be corrected immediately. And I "pretend" my target FC is 1 or 2ppm higher than the FC/CYA chart says. This means I never get anywhere near my actual minimum FC. And you're living the why. No way do I ever want to have to SLAM my pool. I would rather waste a little SWG hours (by keeping the output a bit higher than necessary), than ever get an algae outbreak. And even then, I had a little one last summer. So I now know my real minimum FC is dead on. I slipped below it for a few days and BAM. Which only proves this MO. Never let your FC dip below the target, and run FC a little high to make sure of it.
I'll bet if I did the math, the cost of a SLAM (in liquid chlorine and time) wouldn't be any more than the SWG hours I burn avoiding one...
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I also would recommend you quit doing the OCLT until your regular testing proves no more loss. The OCLT is for when you think there's loss but assume it's due to UV. This is not where you're up to yet.
i thought the only true way to know the loss was doing the OCLT, as losing thru day might just be from sun, so cant really go by that, but OCLT tells me its algae as sun is out of the picture, isnt there always going to be a loss during the day so i need to do OCLT to be sure ? or maybe you mean my daily loss is too much at this point so wait till loss is more reasonable, whatever that is.....then OCLT
i cant test CYA right now its overcast here not much sun.....all past tests have been strong sun, back to sun
went to pool shop they again said algicide, nope not doing that,
i am starting to think its enough i been putting a ton of chlorine in its around 70 litres now, CC 0, no sign of any green, pool sparkling, i know i been losing overnight which isn't good, but could it be my CYA is higher than i tested to 80/90 ?
but just to mention before i started i did get pool shop ( pool spa warehouse, big shop ) to test they said CYA they said it is 62, PH 7.6 CC 0 they use some kind of electronic test unit, so i guess CYA is 90 or less, at least not over 90 if they say 62
7.30 am fc 30 add 3 litres..........8.30 am fc 40.............9.45 am fc 35 .......10.30 no test going out, put in 1 litre just to help .......12pm FC 23 put 4 litres in.......1.30 FC 33 put 2 litres in
if my CYA is actually lower than the 90 i been going by then i been slamming with more than is really needed, u would think by now its done , but this loss just isnt making sense to me
i am starting to think its enough i been putting a ton of chlorine in its around 70 litres now, CC 0, no sign of any green, pool sparkling, i know i been losing overnight which isn't good, but could it be my CYA is higher than i tested to 80/90 ?
but just to mention before i started i did get pool shop ( pool spa warehouse, big shop ) to test they said CYA they said it is 62, PH 7.6 CC 0 they use some kind of electronic test unit, so i guess CYA is 90 or less, at least not over 90 if they say 62
7.30 am fc 30 add 3 litres..........8.30 am fc 40.............9.45 am fc 35 .......10.30 no test going out, put in 1 litre just to help .......12pm FC 23 put 4 litres in.......1.30 FC 33 put 2 litres in
if my CYA is actually lower than the 90 i been going by then i been slamming with more than is really needed, u would think by now its done , but this loss just isnt making sense to me