Want to Replace Single Speed Pump

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RamenLover said:
You certainly now more than me about this. I use this meter Amprobe NAV51. I always used it assuming it correctly does the power factor conversion.
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OK, it looks like the meter is better than I thought.

It looks like it does measure the power.

It can also measure power factor.

What was the power factor (P.F)?

Also, check the amps and voltage separately.

The volts x the amps x P.F should equal watts.
 
JamesW said:
OK, it looks like the meter is better than I thought.

It looks like it does measure the power.

It can also measure power factor.

What was the power factor (P.F)?

Also, check the amps and voltage separately.

The volts x the amps x P.F should equal watts.
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::wipes head::

Phew... after you told me it doesn't measure power factor, I started looking at the specs and had a call into Fluke. Thank GOD!
 
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A low power factor might point to a failing capacitor.

Your meter can test capacitance, so you can check the capacitance of the capacitor to see if it matches the data printed on the capacitor.

The run capacitors are usually in the 25 to 50 uF range.

If you remove the plastic screen protector, the display will be easier to read. ;)
 
Eureka! You are sharp!

Does that need me to take apart the motor and run a test on the cap? Or can it be done another way? :)

it’s funny why you say about the screen plastic, I’ve been using it like that for 4-5 years and noticed the plastic today for the first time and though “hey I should remove this” lol
 

The only real way is the first test.

Ignore the other tests.

Note that run capacitors discharge through the windings. So, you should virtually never find a charged run capacitor unless the windings opened while the motor was running.

If you ever find a charged run capacitor, the windings are probably bad.

The safe way to discharge a capacitor is to use a 15k ohm 2 watt resistor to connect the terminals.


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If the power is 2,424 watts with a power factor of 0.90, the Volt-Amps will be 2,693.

If the voltage is 230, the current will be 11.7 which is too far above the label amps.

The motor is a replacement, so maybe it's a smaller motor than the original motor and it is being overloaded.
 
The NorthStar was discontinued somewhere between 2008 and about 2012. So, your pump is probably well over 10 years old.

The motor was made on the 169th day of 2016. So, it was probably installed in late 2016 or 2017. That’s only about 4 years old.

I suspect that the original motor was more hp and that the current motor is undersized and overloaded.

If you get a chance, check the volts and amps to see what they are.

When you remove the old pump, check the impeller for a part number stamped on the impeller to see what that is.

There’s a water drip on the motor that you should fix before installing a new pump or the new pump will be corroded by the drip.
 

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JamesW said:
The NorthStar was discontinued somewhere between 2008 and about 2012. So, your pump is probably well over 10 years old.

The motor was made on the 169th day of 2016. So, it was probably installed in late 2016 or 2017. That’s only about 4 years old.

I suspect that the original motor was more hp and that the current motor is undersized and overloaded.

If you get a chance, check the volts and amps to see what they are.

When you remove the old pump, check the impeller for a part number stamped on the impeller to see what that is.

There’s a water drip on the motor that you should fix before installing a new pump or the new pump will be corroded by the drip.
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Single leg Amp measurement 11.39, Voltage a 236.3.

Thanks so much for the information, it's interesting to know that the motor was replaced. What you say makes sense.

You mention fixing the leak because of concern of the new motor being corroded. The plan right now is to change out to a Pentair IntelliFlo, if I understand it correctly, its a new pump and motor? Better just to scrap it and change it all out?

So far it looks like the direction will likely be IntelliCenter with SWCG combo and an IntelliFlo, hopefully with a 3 way valve so I can run the water feature off the same pump. I wonder if I'll need to change the filter out as well.
 
I have a 3 speed pump, but each of the speeds can be adjusted in 50rpm increments, so in reality it's fully variable. Fully variable is very useful as in my case the factory "LOW" setting was too low and "MEDIUM" was too high.

I am normally skeptical of $$$ claims, but I was truly shocked when I got my first power bill after swapping to the slow pump. MASSIVE cut. Like 30%.

Pool plumbing is really easy.
 
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