Hose Bib between pump and filter for draining?

[caycarem]

I plan to redo my pad this weekend. is it a good idea to plumb a hose bib between my pump and the CCP420 filter? I'd place a 2x2x3/4" PVC Tee inline facing to the side, and thread a brass hose bib into the 3/4" of the T with silicone-teflon-silicone in the thread hopefully it can withstand the pressure and not leak.

 

[HermanTX]

Most PB install a hose bib between the pump and filter (as you indicated) for testing purposes. You do not need to have it but it does provide another way to release pressure from your system if you are not positive your gauge (on the filter) is properly working.

 

[thomasandanita]

I was told that the hose bib is there as a way to drain water from the pool. Open the hose bib while the pump is running and the level will drop.

 

[mknauss]

I was told that the hose bib is there as a way to drain water from the pool. Open the hose bib while the pump is running and the level will drop.

To drain a very small amount, OK. But to drain below the skimmer, please get a sump pump. Do not risk destroying your pool pump.

 

[HermanTX]

I was told that the hose bib is there as a way to drain water from the pool. Open the hose bib while the pump is running and the level will drop.

yes, it will do that as well. If you are just draining a little water that is fine - it will exit through a garden hose (I assume you laid to a drain area) so not high volume.
Others may wish to drain through a dedicated backwash hose or if you have a multi-port valve on your filter (mainly used with DE type filters) you may have a dedicated drain line. So every set up may be a little different for draining.
Second, if you have to drain a lot then best not to use your main pool pump but to have a sump pump.

 

[thomasandanita]

Yes, my understanding as well. Post rain storm draining.

 

[Dirk]

The great drain debate aside...

Don't use a 2x3/4x2. Use a 2x2x2 and glue in a reducer/adapter to get to 3/4". That is a much stronger setup. A brass hose bib in the 3/4" port of a 2x3/4x2 PVC tee is a handy little fulcrum that won't take much force to snap right off. This is the better way to plumb it:



Ignore the acid injector going into the 2x1/2x2 tee, as I shouldn't have done that. Do as I say, not as I do!

I didn't plumb my hose bibs, those were done by a pro who knew better, but I think it takes a slip-slip reducer and then a slip-thread adaptor:

 

[Dirk]

Ignore the acid injector going into the 2x1/2x2 tee, as I shouldn't have done that. Do as I say, not as I do!

I'm remembering now why I did that. A Pentair SWG's flow switch is sensitive to any turbulence that develops in the pipe that leads into the SWG. There's supposed to be a good run of uninterrupted straight pipe in that location. I reasoned that the weaker connection was worth the risk, since it is pretty well protected by the pipes surrounding it, and that the 1/2" port would cause less turbulence inside the tee than a 2" port would. That's me story and I'm stickin' to it!

[It's not lost on me that I am now replying to my own posts!!!]

 

[Newdude]

[It's not lost on me that I am now replying to my own posts!!!]

As long as you win the argument my friend.

 

[caycarem]

The great drain debate aside...

Don't use a 2x3/4x2. Use a 2x2x2 and glue in a reducer/adapter to get to 3/4". That is a much stronger setup. A brass hose bib in the 3/4" port of a 2x3/4x2 PVC tee is a handy little fulcrum that won't take much force to snap right off. This is the better way to plumb it:

View attachment 172660

Ignore the acid injector going into the 2x1/2x2 tee, as I shouldn't have done that. Do as I say, not as I do!

I didn't plumb my hose bibs, those were done by a pro who knew better, but I think it takes a slip-slip reducer and then a slip-thread adaptor:

View attachment 172661

Brilliant, thanks Dirk! I had thought about this, but wasn't quite clear how to do. now it's clear this is way superior. Male PVC into female brass is also much more appropriate, and last I checked low had more fast flow selections for female brass bib.

 

[caycarem]

Most PB install a hose bib between the pump and filter (as you indicated) for testing purposes. You do not need to have it but it does provide another way to release pressure from your system if you are not positive your gauge (on the filter) is properly working.

since I'm installing an SWG most likely I won't need to drain water, but it could be useful in the future if I messed up chemicals or raise too much CYA over the winter with tablets or too much calcium, etc.

 

[Dirk]

Yes, it's true, ideally you want PVC male threads mating with brass female, because the other way around the metal male component can split out the female PVC if over-tightened. If the ideal is not practical, you just have to be careful not to crank down the connection too much.