Help with liquid chlorine

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Mr. Met Mike

Member
Jul 22, 2020
16
Macungie, PA
I recently purchased a house with a 25K gal pool. I have no experience with a pool before. We keep getting green algae on the walls which keep coming back. I have been using a floater with 3" Trichlor tablets. I want to switch to liquid chlorine but I have no clue how much to put in to start with. I want to know which chemicals to address first. Do I increase my CYA first then add chlorine? Both at the same time? Other chemicals? I went to Leslie's in my area and I just don't trust what they are telling me. I told them I have green algae and they gave me a whole treatment plan and expensive chemicals to basically treat my pool as if it was a green swamp. The water looks pretty good, just green algae keeps coming back on the walls after I would put in power shock (Cal Hypo). I don't trust the people at Leslie's, so that is why I turned to here. Any advice is greatly appreciated. These results are from a pool service guy I had here who cleaned out my DE filter and got the circulation moving much better than it was.

FCL 0.24
TCL 0.65
CCL 0.41
pH 7.1
ALK 39
HARD 182
CYA 5
COPPER 0.2
IRON 0.1
PHOS 1639
 
Mr. Met Mike said:
I recently purchased a house with a 25K gal pool. I have no experience with a pool before. We keep getting green algae on the walls which keep coming back. I have been using a floater with 3" Trichlor tablets. I want to switch to liquid chlorine but I have no clue how much to put in to start with. I want to know which chemicals to address first. Do I increase my CYA first then add chlorine? Both at the same time? Other chemicals? I went to Leslie's in my area and I just don't trust what they are telling me. I told them I have green algae and they gave me a whole treatment plan and expensive chemicals to basically treat my pool as if it was a green swamp. The water looks pretty good, just green algae keeps coming back on the walls after I would put in power shock (Cal Hypo). I don't trust the people at Leslie's, so that is why I turned to here. Any advice is greatly appreciated. These results are from a pool service guy I had here who cleaned out my DE filter and got the circulation moving much better than it was.

FCL 0.24
TCL 0.65
CCL 0.41
pH 7.1
ALK 39
HARD 182
CYA 5
COPPER 0.2
IRON 0.1
PHOS 1639
Click to expand...
Hi Mike,
The first thing that you need is a good test it. The pool store numbers are usually suspect. The tests you need usually can't be found in stores and need to be ordered Online. The best value is the TFTestKits TF-100. They also ship fast. The Taylor K-2006C can be used as well.

I promise that you'll save more than the cost of the test kit on not buying expensive pool store potions that you don't need.

Once you receive your test kit, perform all of the tests and post the results for us here.

If the pool store numbers are anywhere close to correct, you're probably going to need to add some CYA -- but since it's not easily removed once added, you don't want to add it until you verify with your own test numbers. I would recommend adding 3ppm of liquid chlorine each day until you can test.

It looks like you should have access to 10% liquid chlorine at Walmart:
Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid (For Swimming Pool Use)
In stock at Allentown, 1091 Millcreek Rd

You can also call around to local hardware/home stores to see if they have liquid pool chlorine/liquid pool shock. If so, it's usually 10% to 12.5%. Worst case, you can find a lower percentage using regular household bleach. Just make sure no "splashless", no colors, no scents, etc. Plain bleach.

Use the PoolMath app to calculate how much liquid chlorine at whatever percent you get will add 3ppm in a pool of your volume. For reference, 10% liquid chlorine in a 25,000 gallon pool, you'd add about 96 ounces per day.

Post your test results once you have them, and we'll have further advice from there!
 
magiteck said:
Hi Mike,
The first thing that you need is a good test it. The pool store numbers are usually suspect. The tests you need usually can't be found in stores and need to be ordered Online. The best value is the TFTestKits TF-100. They also ship fast. The Taylor K-2006C can be used as well.

I promise that you'll save more than the cost of the test kit on not buying expensive pool store potions that you don't need.

Once you receive your test kit, perform all of the tests and post the results for us here.

If the pool store numbers are anywhere close to correct, you're probably going to need to add some CYA -- but since it's not easily removed once added, you don't want to add it until you verify with your own test numbers. I would recommend adding 3ppm of liquid chlorine each day until you can test.

It looks like you should have access to 10% liquid chlorine at Walmart:
Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid (For Swimming Pool Use)
In stock at Allentown, 1091 Millcreek Rd

You can also call around to local hardware/home stores to see if they have liquid pool chlorine/liquid pool shock. If so, it's usually 10% to 12.5%. Worst case, you can find a lower percentage using regular household bleach. Just make sure no "splashless", no colors, no scents, etc. Plain bleach.

Use the PoolMath app to calculate how much liquid chlorine at whatever percent you get will add 3ppm in a pool of your volume. For reference, 10% liquid chlorine in a 25,000 gallon pool, you'd add about 96 ounces per day.

Post your test results once you have them, and we'll have further advice from there!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I have ordered a test kit and will post my results. In the meantime can I start by adding some liquid chlorine each day? How many days should I be adding 96 oz per day?
 
Mr. Met Mike said:
Thanks for the advice. I have ordered a test kit and will post my results. In the meantime can I start by adding some liquid chlorine each day? How many days should I be adding 96 oz per day?
Click to expand...
Every day, until you get your test kit. You should have it in a few days, and then we'll get your numbers dialed in. 96 ounces is based on 10% sodium hypochlorite, if you end up with a difference percent you can use the PoolMath app as Dtkokay mentioned to figure out the exact amount of whatever percent you find to equal 3ppm of free chlorine.
 
I have received my K2006 test kit. I had been on vacation, but prior to going I added baking soda and powder stabilizer. I also added the liquid chlorine everyday. I am still unable to get anything but a very very light pink color on the chlorine test. Usually the chlorine is zero. What should I add next? Borax? One gallon of liquid chlorine does not seem to be doing anything. Here are my results this morning.

Chlorine 0
pH 7.0
ALK 70
CYA 50
Calcium 340

Thanks in advance!
 
Mr. Met Mike said:
I have received my K2006 test kit. I had been on vacation, but prior to going I added baking soda and powder stabilizer. I also added the liquid chlorine everyday. I am still unable to get anything but a very very light pink color on the chlorine test. Usually the chlorine is zero. What should I add next? Borax? One gallon of liquid chlorine does not seem to be doing anything. Here are my results this morning.

Chlorine 0
pH 7.0
ALK 70
CYA 50
Calcium 340

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
With the exception of Chlorine, your numbers look good and don't require adjustment.

If a gallon of chlorine is disappearing that fast, it sounds like you're dealing with an algae problem.

First thing I'd do, to confirm-
Add a gallon of chlorine, wait 15-20 minutes (with the pump running), and then immediately test the chlorine again using your FAS-DPD kit. Just to make sure it's actually in the water and not being immediately broken down by something.

Assuming your chlorine isn't immediately disappearing, it's being consumed quickly by organics in the water - typically algae. If that's the case, you need to follow the SLAM Process to clear the algae. That's going to involve using a much higher level of chlorine, and adding multiple times daily, until the problem clears up. We'll be here to help you through that process.

 
magiteck said:
With the exception of Chlorine, your numbers look good and don't require adjustment.

If a gallon of chlorine is disappearing that fast, it sounds like you're dealing with an algae problem.

First thing I'd do, to confirm-
Add a gallon of chlorine, wait 15-20 minutes (with the pump running), and then immediately test the chlorine again using your FAS-DPD kit. Just to make sure it's actually in the water and not being immediately broken down by something.

Assuming your chlorine isn't immediately disappearing, it's being consumed quickly by organics in the water - typically algae. If that's the case, you need to follow the SLAM Process to clear the algae. That's going to involve using a much higher level of chlorine, and adding multiple times daily, until the problem clears up. We'll be here to help you through that process.

Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. Assuming I opt for the SLAM can you please let me know if my plan is correct. I really want to get it right the first time. Tonight I would add 5 gallons of 10% bleach to reach a target FC of 20 (with a CYA of 50). Then I would keep testing to maintain that level.
 
Mr. Met Mike said:
Tonight I would add 5 gallons of 10% bleach to reach a target FC of 20 (with a CYA of 50). Then I would keep testing to maintain that level.
Click to expand...
Correct. Time is of the essence. Start as soon as you can. Then you need to test and add chlorine at least 3 to 4 times per day, more often the better to start.
 
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Yes, if you want to test your addition after adding your first batch. Wait 20 minutes to see if you get to slam level.

I get 5 gal jugs and do this to see how fresh it is. Sometimes i get some really hot batches. Last time i saw delivery reciept for the LC, really fresh and hot..
 
So I am curious to get thoughts how these numbers look and what you think. I have gone through 30 gallons of bleach so far and I don't know how long I can continue at This rate of adding. Here are the numbers for my slam.

CYA - 50 (can it be 45? The black dot seems to disappear right in the middle of 40 and 50)

FC readings (Target FC = 20):
8/18 7:40 PM - 0
8/18 9:45 PM - 9.6
8/18 11:40 PM - 10.4

8/19 7:30 AM - 4.8
8/19 10:20 AM - 12.2
8/19 1:15 PM - 7.4
8/19 3:45 PM - 12.6
8/19 8:00 PM - 10
8/19 11:15 PM - 13.2

8/20 6:25 AM - 10.6
8/20 8:00 PM - 3.6

8/21 9:00 PM - 7.8
 
I assume at each of the above tests, you are adding liquid chlorine to get back to 20 ppm FC.

If so, your losses are still huge. Have you tested CC at all?
 
magiteck said:
First thing I'd do, to confirm-
Add a gallon of chlorine, wait 15-20 minutes (with the pump running), and then immediately test the chlorine again using your FAS-DPD kit. Just to make sure it's actually in the water and not being immediately broken down by something.
Click to expand...
Did you do that back on August 13?
 
I might suggest that you test FC 15-20 again minutes after adding LC to get to your target, just to confirm that the LC you are using is at the strength it is advertised. If it sits around too long, especially in the heat, it can degrade. It seems suspect that you fell completely to zero FC if you added to get to 20 ppm earlier in the day.

The LC also should have a date code on it, stating the date of production. You may want to look at that as well.
 
Chasarms said:
I might suggest that you test FC 15-20 again minutes after adding LC to get to your target, just to confirm that the LC you are using is at the strength it is advertised. If it sits around too long, especially in the heat, it can degrade. It seems suspect that you fell completely to zero FC if you added to get to 20 ppm earlier in the day.

The LC also should have a date code on it, stating the date of production. You may want to look at that as well.
Click to expand...
The date code is 20205
 
Mr. Met Mike said:
For what it's worth my water looks clearer than it ever has before, but I know it's the readings that are important.
Click to expand...
OK -- so progress is being made. Check all areas that algae could hide. Do you have drop in stairs or a ladder? Light niche, skimmer door, etc.
 

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