RaspiPool (Pool Automation System with Raspberry pi + Home Assistant)

[segalion]

Hello. This is my first post here.
I am working in an automation project with a raspberry pi + home assistant, and I would like to know if there are some here interested or with experience in similar projetcs.

Since a few years I have a little system based on pilight, an now I am immersed in a full upgrade to Home Assistant.

My system is a dual-speed pump + sand filter, with 3 sensors:
- temp
- ph
- orp
I am using DS18B20 and EZO ph an ORP cards (I had to develope a HA sensor for that).
and 4 controllers (relays):
- pump on/off
- pump speed (high/low)
- muriatic injection
- bleach injection

EDITED:
Some post after, I have a video showing state of development at 28/08/2019

 

[jonpcar]

Segalion, lots of people interested in is type of activity but since it is usually DIY, they are all over the place. I would love to hear more about your system, especially regarding the success (or not) of your chemical monitoring/injection. I looked into Home Assistant but decided against integration with that for now (maybe in the future). Search for “raspberry pi”, photon, arduino on these forums for others doing something similar projects.

Here are a couple recent threads:

Mine

My NEW Pool Automation Controller

This is a work in progress…I will be updating this first post with some of my latest progress. Normally, I post projects after I have completed 90% of it. This is not the case with this automation project. This thread will be kind of like a pool-build thread, with updates when I get the...

www.troublefreepool.com

Another

My new automation system.

EDIT 8/18/2019: Node-RED flows now stored on github. Youtube videos here: Hardware / Node-RED programming --- Hi all. I wanted to share my new automation system with someone. My wife and kids don't really care but I think it's pretty neat. :laughblue: Today all it does is the web interface...

www.troublefreepool.com

You should update your signature...if you have Pentair equipment the node.js project on github is a good open source project. Some are pursuing it here in this thread:

IntelliCenter Home Automation Integration and Control

@MyAZPool Have you been able to make any progress on this? I am still a way out from having my IntelliCenter installed but advanced control by my Home Automation system is a must for me. I have been searching the internet and found a very interesting and currently active github project: node.js...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[segalion]

I have seen a few the projects and some of this forum.
Actually is a work-in-progress where I want to have a modular, cost-efective, no soldier (or minimum), and web interface and full notification system (pushbullet or hangout).
For me is very important notification (alarm) system so I have decided by a raspberry pi instead arduino or esp32.
Some of actual features are...
- filter time depending on temperature. Less than 4hours means winter-session so filter is not every-day.
- notifications for alll (ph or orp levels, great variance (probe broken), muruatic and bleach levels (injection and remain tank), etc.)
- ph and orp control.
Im going to upload some pictures because is very visual...

 

[segalion]

ha_pool_main.png

• segalion
• Jul 4, 2019

main home assistant pool controller

 

[wogster]

I have seen a few the projects and some of this forum.
Actually is a work-in-progress where I want to have a modular, cost-efective, no soldier (or minimum), and web interface and full notification system (pushbullet or hangout).
For me is very important notification (alarm) system so I have decided by a raspberry pi instead arduino or esp32.
Some of actual features are...
- filter time depending on temperature. Less than 4hours means winter-session so filter is not every-day.
- notifications for alll (ph or orp levels, great variance (probe broken), muruatic and bleach levels (injection and remain tank), etc.)
- ph and orp control.
Im going to upload some pictures because is very visual...

NOTE: WARNING WARNING WARNING

Orp is affected by a lot, anything in your water (TA, CH, CYA) can affect it, which makes it a moving target. For example if your TA is higher your ORP will read lower and if your TA is lower your ORP will read higher, and TA itself tends to drop over time.

 

[jonpcar]

I have seen a few the projects and some of this forum.
Actually is a work-in-progress where I want to have a modular, cost-efective, no soldier (or minimum), and web interface and full notification system (pushbullet or hangout).
For me is very important notification (alarm) system so I have decided by a raspberry pi instead arduino or esp32.
Some of actual features are...
- filter time depending on temperature. Less than 4hours means winter-session so filter is not every-day.
- notifications for alll (ph or orp levels, great variance (probe broken), muruatic and bleach levels (injection and remain tank), etc.)
- ph and orp control.
Im going to upload some pictures because is very visual...

The control panel looks great! Nice job. I don't think your goals are very different from other projects I have seen. I've found (since my project is just for me), that it will never be cost effective because of all the time I've spent on it (haha). Alarms, notifications are really important to me also. The chip I am using (particle.io Photon) has its unique processes to help in doing those.

I don't know if you have read this forum's guidelines for pool management...it is built on a system that uses free chlorine to keep your pool sanitary, filter time really doesn't have a defined role.

Most interesting to me about your project is your success and/or problems with ORP. Not many people are successful in applying it to this site's priority (free chlorine). It seems that many more Europeans use ORP, but it is not clear how easy/maintainable it is. I am interested in ORP but am still weighing the pros/cons of even attempting to try something (although I will definitely go for pH monitor/control eventually) Here is one thread I've been following where there has been some ORP success.

Intellichem - and yup orp issue

So - I have the Intillichem hooked up. Brand new unit and probes. PH management functionality is perfect. ORP is showing 520ish with perfectly balanced (ideal -.08 LSI). My numbers FC =2.8 CC = 0 PH=7.29 CH =320 Alk=110 CYA=18 NaCL=3800 I have read a bunch of posts just saying to use...

www.troublefreepool.com

Anyway, thanks for posting and I hope you keep us informed on your progress.

wogster, I read through some of your old posts...like for most people, it doesn't seem like your ORP experiences had a silver lining. Thanks.

 

[segalion]

I am not an experienced pool user (five years ago I didnt know what 'skimmer' was). But all what I have been learned is from "spanish school", that seems a little diferent to american methods.

Some of differences I apreciate are:
- time of filtering is more important in "european school" (ES) than "american school" (AS): with 30ºC we have daily cicles of 3 times recirculation time (12-15 hours is usual with high temps). Here seems more important sanitize than filter.
- In this forum there are more focus on TA and CH, that are considered "very stables" in ES, so they are tested once a year and manually corrected if necesary. I dont know why, maybe because we mainly use depurated water to fill our pools, or the contruction materials of the pools (in Spain a great ammount of pools are little sqare mosaic glass, and here I can see something like 'plast').
- AS has a great experience on 2-speed and variable-speed pumps. Unfortunately, in ES mono-speed are the rule.
- In Spain we have a great support in experiences with bromine, that I cant see here (actually is what I am using so, with my polycarbonate cover, I dont have cyanuric acid).

About orp and sanitization, I am compromising between filter time cycles and bleach injection, I am thinking what is best:
1. peak of bleach at night (no sun effect) up to i.e 2-3ppm, that kill all algae at night (like a micro-daily SLAM), and will be reduced to zero with sun rays. Thats what I want because of "nighty-electricity-bill".
2. more continuous bleach injection around the day (to get ~0.6ppm), what means more diary cycles, that make algae dont proliferate.

About my system, I want to make it more configurable as possible to work with many pools (I will send more pics about this...). I will inform on my progress, and my intention is to publish all the work @github (even hardware instructions).

Thanks.

 

[segalion]

NOTE: WARNING WARNING WARNING

Orp is affected by a lot, anything in your water (TA, CH, CYA) can affect it, which makes it a moving target. For example if your TA is higher your ORP will read lower and if your TA is lower your ORP will read higher, and TA itself tends to drop over time.

Thanks. I will have it into account.
I have recently received the ORP probe and I am experiencing first outside pool.
My great concern is about bromine doser (inside skimmer) before the orp probe... TA and CH seems to be very stable, and I dont have CYA at all.

 

[segalion]

This is some of settings pool picture. They are old, because with HA you can easily configure your web view in real-time, and you can put what you want where you want...

ha_pool_settings.png

• segalion
• Jul 8, 2019

I.e. when you long-press "maintenance", it ask for how many days the automatic system will be suspended (out of order or hand maintenance mode)
If you press reset button it begin to account accumulated recirculation times, to send notification when any ammount is reached (see remain cycles gauge at first picture) for hand-maintenance (i.e. for clean filter, change tablets, etc.).

 

[jonpcar]

Thanks for the update! Building the user interface with Home Assistant is nice...they have a lot of building blocks and it is transportable. Yours looks really good!

Some comments...

- time of filtering is more important in "european school" (ES) than "american school" (AS): with 30ºC we have daily cicles of 3 times recirculation time (12-15 hours is usual with high temps). Here seems more important sanitize than filter.

I’m am really surprised at this...especially since you indicate VSP pumps are generally not used in Europe (perhaps you have very efficient single speed pumps...is there such a thing?). I only moved to this site’s methods a year ago...and my pool has never looked better. I used to run my pump full speed for 8-12 hours a day...no more. I think the TFP pool methods used here by 10s of thousands of people are pretty solid proof that the chlorine sanitation works and that filtering is a secondary concern.

Read post #5 in this thread, it is by one of this site’s experts...remember, this site is all volunteers, these guys make no money from supporting these methods:

Performance Chart for Pump

Hey folks! 1 week old new pool owner here. I have a Jandy 2.7 hp VS pump. Obviously the reason for the VS pump is to try and conserver energy. With that being said, how accurate are these performance charts? I have a total of approximately 60' of head. Whats the best way to read this chart so I...

www.troublefreepool.com

- In this forum there are more focus on TA and CH, that are considered "very stables" in ES, so they are tested once a year and manually corrected if necesary. I dont know why, maybe because we mainly use depurated water to fill our pools, or the contruction materials of the pools (in Spain a great ammount of pools are little sqare mosaic glass, and here I can see something like 'plast').

I don’t think we are that different on this...these numbers are very stable in most systems. I check mine only every few months. Purified warter may make a difference (I don’t know if purified means no calcium for you?). TA is impacted by those who have water turbulence such as spas, waterfalls, slides, etc...they would check these numbers more often.

I know nothing about bromine, but there are actually quite a few that use it on this site...I thought it was more to do with ph management but as I said, I haven’t looked at it...it’s on my list for later, haha.

About orp and sanitization, I am compromising between filter time cycles and bleach injection, I am thinking what is best:
1. peak of bleach at night (no sun effect) up to i.e 2-3ppm, that kill all algae at night (like a micro-daily SLAM), and will be reduced to zero with sun rays. Thats what I want because of "nighty-electricity-bill".
2. more continuous bleach injection around the day (to get ~0.6ppm), what means more diary cycles, that make algae dont proliferate.

Your use of ZERO CYA would not be possible for me in Arizona with my outside, uncovered pool. It would be prohibitively expensive to try and keep my chlorine levels at acceptable levels to keep algae at bay. I try to keep my CYA at about 50. But like you, I am planning some experiments in my chlorine dosing. Killing all the algae at night is nice (mini shock) but mine would come back in the day if I didn’t keep my FC up at the minimum levels, and a nightly “mini-shock” would not necessarily keep it at bay.

Currently I do one large dose of chlorine at night (mini-shock like you), and then the chlorine dwindles down during the (many) sunlight hours to levels much lower (but still meeting this site’s guidelines). With my new pool controller, I will be experimenting with chlorine low doses throughout the day, like you, to measure it’s impact.

Anyway, keep up the updates...your project is really neat!

 

[segalion]

Thank jonpcar.
I have seen your project and its awesome. I am really impressed. I have posted there some comments about it.

About my appreciations about diferences, I am not say filter is more important than sanitize (chlorine with proper ph level), that we think is the most important. I only say that seems (to me) that filtering time is not so important here. I am not an expert, but I think that filtering time has the efect to send chlorine levels all around the water mass of the pool. I.e. we are usually very worried about fluid dinamic inside the pool (how recirculation of water inside), maybe I can see here more rectangle pools with less squaress as posible (stairs, free forms, etc.). and even (i dont know how you say) "background boosters". We are worried about ultra-plain surface i.e little holes or slots where algae can resist to chlorine just because it cannot enter inside (so algae can resist and be the focus of an invassion when sanitize level is down).

But it is only my first perception in this forum, about others in my region.

About VSP, its a question about cost. Here VSP is >1500€, 2SP (two speed pump) is about 300-500€ and 1SP can be <200€, and I can tell that nobody know how efficient is his pump (sure bad). I think that 2SP is enought for 80% of people, but I dont know why is so low popular. Indeed, lot of people here has a proplem with filtering speed (more than 50 m3/h/m2 what is horrible filter quality)

About TA, totally agree. I allways mistake that my case is the rule for 100% of people.

I will try to get updated my advances here. Thanks a lot.

 

[jonpcar]

About my appreciations about diferences, I am not say filter is more important than sanitize (chlorine with proper ph level), that we think is the most important. I only say that seems (to me) that filtering time is not so important here. I am not an expert, but I think that filtering time has the efect to send chlorine levels all around the water mass of the pool. I.e. we are usually very worried about fluid dinamic inside the pool (how recirculation of water inside), maybe I can see here more rectangle pools with less squaress as posible (stairs, free forms, etc.). and even (i dont know how you say) "background boosters". We are worried about ultra-plain surface i.e little holes or slots where algae can resist to chlorine just because it cannot enter inside (so algae can resist and be the focus of an invassion when sanitize level is down).

In general, chemicals disperse...sure it takes some time but it will happen to some extent even without the pump going. Obviously the pump helps things along, even at very low rpms. But the issue you talk about is especially concerning (in my experience) once algae gets any sort of foothold, especially in those areas with poor circulation. That is why this site puts so much emphasis on preventing ANY algae growth from taking hold.

I had/have a related situation just above my tile water line. During the summer, with very warm (near hot) water at the surface and full sunlight depletion of my chlorine along my tileline, I had to fight algae getting a foothold in my tile grout just above the waterline. This year, I am running my pump at low speed all afternoon during those sunlight hours to keep water circulating (avoiding chlorine depletion zones) and lowering the temperature along that "tile line water", as an experiment to avoid all this. So far pretty good.

About VSP, its a question about cost. Here VSP is >1500€, 2SP (two speed pump) is about 300-500€ and 1SP can be <200€, and I can tell that nobody know how efficient is his pump (sure bad). I think that 2SP is enought for 80% of people, but I dont know why is so low popular. Indeed, lot of people here has a proplem with filtering speed (more than 50 m3/h/m2 what is horrible filter quality)

I am surprised at this because generally I think of Europeans as "leaders" on the ECO front. To give you an idea of my experience (not necessarily typical because I have an In-Floor-Cleaning-System), I previously had a single speed pump and spent about $50-$60 a month on eelctricity, partly due to laziness and ignorance, haha. Now, with a VSP and some education, I spend less than $10/month ($15 this summer because of my experiment described above), and my pool is clearer and cleaner than ever.

 

[segalion]

Hello again.

I am testing now with the real enviroment, and I can make now some good advices to all what want to make analog measurements with all this DIY projects:

1. Power source IS the base. As good is your main power source will be your meassurements. The quality of PS and the lengh of the cable is very important (you loose 0.1V for each meter, so 5.1V can convert to 4.8V after 3 meter cable). Bad quality PS can result in bad (or very bad) readings.

2. If PS can be bad (noise, voltage changing depend on CPU, etc.), the power in a USB is the worst. In a RPI there are a two polyfuse (with variable resistance), that can even make voltage even worse. I.e. a ph measure can vary depend on witch USB is connected. Please avoid to connect nothing to measure analog to a USB that is not "electrically issolated". GPIO (3.3V) is really stable and free-noise, so use them better.

In my case I has to use UART, so, as I need two, I have to deep inside the second mini-uart of rpi (2B, 3B, 3B+). I have seen that RPI4 has 4 UART.

About the project I have more advances... My intention is to build a low-cost system that can be configurable for common pools (capacity, turn-over filter cycle, etc.), and with the minimum or even NO welding. For this, hats raspberry pi can be the key.

About cost... I was thinking in about 300€ for the system (including box, but excluded pipes, peristaltics, and probes). I have seen a lot of Intelli-xxxx products here that I dont know (functions or descriptions) and I didnt find the prices to compare (all the webs say: "contact for price", so I cant figure even a cost aproximation). Maybe here one can tell me some about those products.

 

[segalion]

I am surprised at this because generally I think of Europeans as "leaders" on the ECO front. To give you an idea of my experience (not necessarily typical because I have an In-Floor-Cleaning-System), I previously had a single speed pump and spent about $50-$60 a month on eelctricity, partly due to laziness and ignorance, haha. Now, with a VSP and some education, I spend less than $10/month ($15 this summer because of my experiment described above), and my pool is clearer and cleaner than ever.

I am very surprised too, but is what I can see here. I have the same problem with electricity bill with a single-speed pump. Now, with dual-speed, I suspect I has less than a half bill, with a better filtering results.

 

[jonpcar]

1. Power source IS the base. As good is your main power source will be your meassurements.

Segalion, when you state that power source is the key...are you talking specifically about the power source for the ORP and pH measuring devices? That is interesting to me because I can make a very clean power source if that has as large of impact as you suggest.

I can see how it introduces a problem for your “turn-key” system...maybe a separate power supply required?

About cost... I was thinking in about 300€ for the system (including box, but excluded pipes, peristaltics, and probes)

I think 300 euros would be on the low-end of cost for a system that does pool control with the features that you are planning. The key will be if non-technical users can figure it out with minimal complexity. There is a market in between the DIYers (like us, who generally want to do it our own way, haha), and those that simply want someone else to implement it for them. It would need to be simple enough that those users could easily implement with step-by-step instructions.

Also in the US, without support for Variable Speed Pumps, it will further restrict the attractiveness/usefulness for such a system. Maybe target European pools initially?

I think you can actually find prices for systems, at least here in the States, by entering the system number/name in google and going to “shopping” tab (do you have that?). Individual pool stores (like Inyo Pools) almost always have the price listed for equipment.

 

[segalion]

Thanks again, jonpcar. Seems that we think the same about all this stuff.

About the power source, I have experienced things you would not believe...
As you probably know, raspberry pi is usually supplied by a micro-usb PSU (usually a tipical mobile charger, with about 2A is more than enough). But this is not for making precise analog meassurements. Ok, simply changing one PSU for another change the pH measurement from 3-4 up to 9-10!!!. Even with one PSU gives pH=14. With same PSU, simply changing the USB cable can make change the pH in 0.5!!!. Pluging the same PSU with same cable at different plug (another phase) make change the pH levels too!!! Incredible. Changing the raspberry pi make changes in pH levels. When reading with USB-serial, changing the USB port make more than relevant changes on pH levels!!!

Now some explanations and recomendations:

PSU can be rated to 5.0V, 5.1V even 5.2V. Some of them, rated at 5.0V can be really has 4.9V, 5.05V or even fluctuanting voltage depending on power consummig (Amperage). All of this depend on quality of PSU. Some of them introduces huge noise that finally is traslated to the chip that takes the pH meassure, if no
I think I can explain the pH=14. My pH chip can automatically work at 3.3V or 5V. One of a PSU is a very good quality ASUS 1.5A PSU, with no noise, but rated at 5.2V. 5.2V makes 3.4V at gpio feed, what make the chip think it is on a 5V level, so the mV reading at probe input is absolutely low, referenced to a supposed 5V level, so it output 14 pH (means minimum no H+ presence).
Recomendation 1. Ensure a good quality 5.00V rated, stable (always 5.0V at all amperage demands) and noiseless PSU.

The noise inside the RPI voltage can be induced for PSU, but too for ground reference on the ethernet. The explanation of diferent pH levels in diferent plugs are explained because of presence of PLC. If I remove the PLC both plugs result in same readings.
Recomendation 2. Please avoid use of PLC near the raspberry pi feed.

Ethernet introduce noise too. Standar desviation on pH reading is 0.08 with ethernet conencted, and 0.01 without. Depending on quality of switch, more noise can be introduced on your meassurements.
Recomendation 3. Please avoid use of ethernet comunications. Use wifi (so minimum RPI3 / zero wifi is recommended).

USB port is another source of noise. My old RPI2 has polyfuses wasted, so the Voltage at USB port is even more. Polyfuses are cheap resistance protections for the rpi. There are two polifuse (for each pair of USB ports) and one for main usb power. If some of the polyfuse blows... it could recover their state after 1-2 days without use it, but resistance can not be the same, and voltage can down to 4.5V or even more.... Another explanation: due of this polyfuse diferent resistance, pH measurements in one USB can be different from other. In my examples. I have found that internal GPIO UART is more precise (low noise) than USB-SERIAL device.
Recomendation 4. Try to avoid use of analog meassures with USB conections. If you can, use GPIO instead.

Anf finally, one more recomendation:
Recomendation 5. If you change PSU, or PSU usb cable, or raspberry pi, or USB port, or even connect another USB devices... pH/ORP/temp readings can be diferent... so RECALIBRATION is needed.

 

[wogster]

Thanks again, jonpcar. Seems that we think the same about all this stuff.

About the power source, I have experienced things you would not believe...
As you probably know, raspberry pi is usually supplied by a micro-usb PSU (usually a tipical mobile charger, with about 2A is more than enough). But this is not for making precise analog meassurements. Ok, simply changing one PSU for another change the pH measurement from 3-4 up to 9-10!!!. Even with one PSU gives pH=14. With same PSU, simply changing the USB cable can make change the pH in 0.5!!!. Pluging the same PSU with same cable at different plug (another phase) make change the pH levels too!!! Incredible. Changing the raspberry pi make changes in pH levels. When reading with USB-serial, changing the USB port make more than relevant changes on pH levels!!!

Now some explanations and recomendations:

PSU can be rated to 5.0V, 5.1V even 5.2V. Some of them, rated at 5.0V can be really has 4.9V, 5.05V or even fluctuanting voltage depending on power consummig (Amperage). All of this depend on quality of PSU. Some of them introduces huge noise that finally is traslated to the chip that takes the pH meassure, if no
I think I can explain the pH=14. My pH chip can automatically work at 3.3V or 5V. One of a PSU is a very good quality ASUS 1.5A PSU, with no noise, but rated at 5.2V. 5.2V makes 3.4V at gpio feed, what make the chip think it is on a 5V level, so the mV reading at probe input is absolutely low, referenced to a supposed 5V level, so it output 14 pH (means minimum no H+ presence).
Recomendation 1. Ensure a good quality 5.00V rated, stable (always 5.0V at all amperage demands) and noiseless PSU.

The noise inside the RPI voltage can be induced for PSU, but too for ground reference on the ethernet. The explanation of diferent pH levels in diferent plugs are explained because of presence of PLC. If I remove the PLC both plugs result in same readings.
Recomendation 2. Please avoid use of PLC near the raspberry pi feed.

Ethernet introduce noise too. Standar desviation on pH reading is 0.08 with ethernet conencted, and 0.01 without. Depending on quality of switch, more noise can be introduced on your meassurements.
Recomendation 3. Please avoid use of ethernet comunications. Use wifi (so minimum RPI3 / zero wifi is recommended).

USB port is another source of noise. My old RPI2 has polyfuses wasted, so the Voltage at USB port is even more. Polyfuses are cheap resistance protections for the rpi. There are two polifuse (for each pair of USB ports) and one for main usb power. If some of the polyfuse blows... it could recover their state after 1-2 days without use it, but resistance can not be the same, and voltage can down to 4.5V or even more.... Another explanation: due of this polyfuse diferent resistance, pH measurements in one USB can be different from other. In my examples. I have found that internal GPIO UART is more precise (low noise) than USB-SERIAL device.
Recomendation 4. Try to avoid use of analog meassures with USB conections. If you can, use GPIO instead.

Anf finally, one more recomendation:
Recomendation 5. If you change PSU, or PSU usb cable, or raspberry pi, or USB port, or even connect another USB devices... pH/ORP/temp readings can be diferent... so RECALIBRATION is needed.

If the system is that tight tolerance for power, I would think about inside the case, taking a standard 7.5V or 9V DC power supply, that feeds a 5V output voltage regulator that is attached to the 5V rail on the RPI. It would then not depend so much on the PSU but the voltage regulator to supply the correct power. Even really good, tight tolerance chip based VR's are not that expensive.

 

[segalion]

About the cost... I have seen some of intelli-xxx products. Seems that they are ultra-modular (what its fantastic). I have seen that its cost-effective, (and seems good quality). Furthermore, I find expensive the top of them (that includes wifi and mobile app, to remote control, etc. that its usually what DIY people search for).

About the pumps, I have seen that you can find cheapper Variable Speed Pumps in US. In Spain only top level can be VSP, so is difficult to find cheap VSP.

My case is some strange. I has a dual-speed pump, that really are 2 motors inside one ( twon winding motor), so the control is really easy (one Neuntral and Line1 for one speed and L2 for the other), so with two relays you can control it (one for on-off and other to conmute between L1 and L2). But I recognize this kind of pumps its not common. I dont know why because I
think is more cost-effective than VBR.

The problem with all this VBR pumps are the automation of the control, that is usually ultra-propietary (under some standar protocol CANbus or Modbus-485...), so as you say make a “turn-key” system is really dificult. I was thinking that could be better begin with some Variable Frequency Drive (brands that help more in integration with PCs) instead of pump models. With this, you could convert every three-phase fixed cheap pump into a VBR pump, integrated in your automatic system. Maybe, if this has some exit another people can add more integrations over this.

Obviously, to create a "friendly DIY system" I need to begin to instruction over specific HW that I have to explain. I dont know If I can write here about specific components and brands and models. I dont know if this can be seen as promotion products in this forum. If it is not forbiden, I could begin to explain instructions here: I.e. generate a BUM, specific ph and orp sensors, relay board, pump models, etc.

Raspberry pi and Home Assistant is something very user-friendly to install with HASS.io (simply copy file in a sdcard, start the RPI, and configure some parameters similar to start a PC for first time) and my work is primary creating a infraestructure over Home Assistant, that its really copy a directory on proper location.
I am triyng to select components that welding is minimum or even none (as my actual system).

I want to select easy reemplazable / upgradable system, so the selected components take this into account.

 

[segalion]

I have read the forum rules and seems I can talk about brands and models here. So I can start to explain my BUM:

BUM (Build of Materials)

1. Raspberry pi:
A raspberry pi with wifi (even raspberry pi zero w can be enough, its better minimum "raspberry pi 3 B"). Hats are bigger, and USB ports can be very useful (microphones, webcams...)
1.1 a SD Card. Minimum 8GB, recomended 32 GB. Is very important quallity good A1 speed. I allways use SanDisk Ultra and zero problems in lots of rpis and more than 5 years.
1.2 a very good 5V micro-usb power adaptor. Those from oficial RPI foundation are good.
1.3 a few disipators can be interesting if you plan to put all inside a box (optional) due to high temperature and no fan.

2. Sensors:
2.1 EZO pH Circuit | Atlas Scientific
2.2 EZO ORP Circuit | Atlas Scientific
2.3 one or two carrier board Carrier boards | Atlas Scientific (I need a new post to explain this).
2.4 one DS18B20 waterproof digital temperature probe ( € 0.21 16% de DESCUENTO|1 M/2 M/2,5 M/3 M DS18B20 Paquete de acero inoxidable impermeable DS18b20 temperatura de la sonda sensor de 18b20 para Arduino Diy Kit-in Sensores from Componentes y suministros electrónicos on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group ) and a 4.7Kohms resistance. Directly connected to the GPIO.

3. Relays:
I have found a solution to do not have to weld, but only 5A max current.

11.05US $ 21% de DESCUENTO|Placa de relé de potencia Raspberry Pi, módulo de expansión compatible con RPi A +/B +/2 B/3 B para automatización del hogar inteligente, 1 unidad|Relés| - AliExpress

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Take into account that only up to a 1 HP pump can be controlled (max 5A). There are hats with 6 and 8 relays, and even can be stackable (2x6, 3x6 ...)
My program control automatically 1 pump for filter, 1 mini-pump in

4. Others (non core system):
4.1 Pipes: PVC bypass in returning flow between output filter and input to pump, with 3 probe inputs. and two injection valves (80 cm after the bypass), in main return flow pipes.
4.2 Peristaltic pump for muriatic acid injection (pH control)
4.3 Peristaltic pump for bleach injection (sanitization depending on ORP)
4.5. A standard pH probe (BNC connector)
4.6. A standar ORP probe (BNC connector)
4.7 A IP65 box to get all inside (rpi + carrier board + relays).

This is the basic description. I think I would need at least one post for every item, to describe exactly it, so the work is a little hard, and probably takes some time...

 

[segalion]

Now, I am going to write some basics instructions, to get an idea of difficultly to put all together...

1. Prepare de Raspberry pi and main software (Home Asistant)
So it is based in Home Assistant, I recomment start with a full supported system HASS.io image that make a lot of things easily for us. Basically you need to flash the propper image file on a 32GB sd card.
Instructions here: Installing Hass.io
I recomend rpi3 or rpi4 model b (32 bit image), as they has wifi (I dont recomend ethernet due to possible noise in pH and ORP measurements).
Its very important to has wifi signal where the system will be installed (1-2 meters near pump/filter).
It is supposed to be only needed to put the wifi ssid and passw, and the rpi start, and you could to browse to the web interface of Home Assistant.
NOTE: For those that have experience with rpi and raspbian, I recomend HA in a python virtual env... that its similar to the HASS.io but with more manuallity.

TBC