New to pools, pool guy seems to have done nothing for us

To give you a quick example of why we don't trust the pool store results:

Yesterday I took my water in for a test (I was showing much higher than expected CYA values and I wanted a sanity check), and the colorimeter at the pool store said I have 55ppm of boron/borates when I know for a fact from the excellent drop test devised by some of the members of the forum that I have 28ppm. That's a lot of uncertainty.

I don't know if you've read through the discussion we had above, but the fas-dpd chlorine test can be had separately on Amazon for about $20. During the SLAM accurate chlorine measurements will be essential and the fas-dpd is the only test capable of giving you the CC level to an accurate enough level to tell you when you've met the three criteria to end the SLAM. The TF-100 with xl option will give you more of this crucial test, but as a cheaper alternative you can buy just the fas-dpd test to get started.

Edit: see you've ordered the tf-100. You won't regret it. It also helps support the form and is a great price for what you get.
 
I appreciate everyone's advice here! I was gone for a few days and it seems the conversation blew up a bit, so I don't want people to think I wasn't taking their advice to heart.

The TF-100 should be fine right? I couldn't find the XL option anywhere I looked so I just opted for the regular TF-100. I think the previous owners had a similar test kit, which I found left under a bush in the pool area completely ruined lol
 
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I appreciate everyone's advice here! I was gone for a few days and it seems the conversation blew up a bit, so I don't want people to think I wasn't taking their advice to heart.

The TF-100 should be fine right? I couldn't find the XL option anywhere I looked so I just opted for the regular TF-100. I think the previous owners had a similar test kit, which I found left under a bush in the pool area completely ruined lol

Depending on how long the SLAM goes you might run low on fas-dpd reagents.

You can order more here: XL Option

Edit: the reason you use those up during a slam is that the chlorine levels are much higher, so each time you do a test you require more of the actual drops. It will last much longer when you're out of the SLAM and measuring the normal 3-7ppm based on CYA.

No harm in waiting to see how it goes when you get your tf-100. You'll know pretty quick if you're going to burn out of reagent.
 
You can buy FAS-DPD refill reagents for $22 on Amazon too, so don't go buying a whole nother test kit!

No, you didn't cause discord, just an airing of something we relative noobs have noticed which needed to be addressed. I have to say responses to Introduce Yourself posts have been less abrupt since our discussion here, which is A Good Thing (c). So all is well in TFP land!
 
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You can buy FAS-DPD refill reagents on Amazon too, so don't go buying a whole nother test kit!

No, you didn't cause discord, just an airing of something we relative noobs have noticed which needed to be addressed. I have to say responses to Introduce Yourself posts have been less abrupt since our discussion here, which is A Good Thing (c). So all is well in TFP land!

Thanks! Good to know I can get the refills on Prime.

I will say that at least this morning I could partially see the 3rd step down and the pool is no longer toxic waste green like in the first pic, but more of a darkish pale green. The new filter is kicking up the jets so much that you can see the water moving, where as before it would start at 20 PSI on the DE filter and you'd struggle to see the water moving around at all. I can safely say that filter was 50% of my problem, if the previous owners left it out there for at least 5 years it may have gone bad from NW PA winters. Amazingly the pump is great, it doesn't whine like the bearings are bad or anything so I'll just use that until it dies one day.

My girlfriend had bought a bucket of those chlorine pucks and it looks like I"m going to have to take those back, as I read that they increase CYA levels big time. So I guess I"ll be buying liquid chlorine for maintaining once we're out of the woods here.
 
This is probably a good time to fill out your signature. You're probably gonna need some help along the way and knowing the details of your pool will help others. THIS thread will provide some some guidance on completing the signature and tips on posting test results.

Great choice on the TF-100 and ditching the tablets. You're gonna need a good source for chlorine. Start looking around now. Keep in mind chlorine/bleach comes in varying strengths from 6% to 12.5%.

Best of luck.
 
If the pucks are unopened return them, if not you can use them sparingly for vacation use if you properly manage your CYA levels. I too bought the bucket before I knew better and could not return them. I have used them to slowly raise my CYA in the spring and for vacation use only. They do have a use if you clearly understand their full impact but they cannot be used as a sole source for pool sanitation unless one is willing to drain the pool every couple of years or so.
 

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Yeah, I bought pucks before I went TFPC thru Amazon, can't return them. AND a box of dichlor shock! So I'm going to save them and use when I'm not feeling good enough to fiddle with the pool. It happens during flares. I'll get my husband to grab me a water sample and take a picture of the pool, then I'll test and prescribe what's needed.

I also calculated last night how much LC I'll need for the season, which will likely end mid-November. I figured on 21 gallons total, so I'm going to get that this weekend from Wal-Mart.

Incidentally, I used PoolMath to help me figure it out.

FC of 7, amt of 12.5% to add to 2 FC is 16 oz.

# days in season = 168

Worst case scenario (16 oz LC per day x 168 days) ÷ 128 oz/gal = 21 gal

Someone let me know if my cipherin' ain't right.
 
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This is probably a good time to fill out your signature. You're probably gonna need some help along the way and knowing the details of your pool will help others. THIS thread will provide some some guidance on completing the signature and tips on posting test results.

I know some of the info but not all, the first pool guy estimated my pool volume around 15-18000 gal. I'll get measurements tonight and get the exact model off the pump. Filter is a Hayward C1200 and it's a vinyl inground pool. Once I get all the info I'll add a signature!

Edit: Also our seasons here are maybe 90-110 days. End of May if you're lucky to early September. From the 7 day forecast the temps aren't going to be high enough to swim anyways so I have a lot of time to get this pool in shape.
 
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One more question - a manager at work suggested I put in a bottle of Clorox Green Algae Eliminator. I'm thinking I should just keep putting in chlorine. Will this even be effective while I'm shocking? He also said he cleared his pool with this without a filter in 24 hours. Kind of hard to believe.
 
Clorox Green Algae Eliminator
No --- another magic potion that will mess up the water chemistry. It also contains Copper. Never put copper in your water. It will turn blonde hair green and stain the pool surfaces. Only way to eliminate it is to drain the pool.
 
Stay the course with liquid chlorine (bleach). Neighbor/friend/manager advice is notoriously fickle. You'll need to choose a method to follow to achieve long term success. TFPC is proven.
 
I use the 3" pucks in two floating chlorinators (centered via twine attached across the pool) while the pool is closed over the winter. It helps to keep some residual FC in the water while the pool is sitting for 6 months and also helps keep the PH down.

Would those be beneficial when temps can get to the single digits in my area? It's basically winter here from late November/early December until mid or end of April.

Also what liquid chlorine or alternative to pucks does TFP recommend for maintenance, can I get the liquid gallon stuff from Walmart or is that not good?
 
Bleach is bleach. You can use plain household bleach (no additives, not Chlorox) or you can use pool shock. Pool shock is just concentrated bleach. You just want to make sure it is fresh. I think the date code is two digit year followed by the number of days of the year.
 

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