High TA & SWCG Flashing red/green

Mrs.Biggs

Active member
Oct 10, 2018
29
Goddard, KS
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So after we had to drain and refill the pool after the collapse I felt like I was on track to getting the water balanced. I was slowly bringing my cya up using the sock method and re-tested today. My TA has remained high. Chlorine and salt are creeping up. And now the SWCG is flashing. Attached a screenshot of my poolmath app.
 

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Sounds like a no flow condition.

When the cell first starts up, the lights flash for a minute or so to indicate that the salinity measurement is not determined yet.

If the lights continue to flash after a minute, that's usually due to a no flow indication, which means that the cell will not check salinity until it gets a good flow indication for over 1 minute.

Does the Flow light show Green or Red?
 
Sounds like a no flow condition.

When the cell first starts up, the lights flash for a minute or so to indicate that the salinity measurement is not determined yet.

If the lights continue to flash after a minute, that's usually due to a no flow indication, which means that the cell will not check salinity until it gets a good flow indication for over 1 minute.

Does the Flow light show Green or Red?
 
Well. Heck. I'm standing out here watching this thing and now it's stopped flashing. When I saw it flashing the kreepy krauly was on as well as the booster pump. Could that cause it?
 
It flashes on startup, that's normal. If it flashes after startup, it's usually a no flow issue. Your flow might be borderline, especially if the booster pulls water from before the cell or the pump speed is too low.
 
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It flashes on startup, that's normal. If it flashes after startup, it's usually a no flow issue. Your flow might be borderline, especially if the booster pulls water from before the cell or the pump speed is too low.
Thank you for the help. Do the #s look OK? I'm concerned about the high TA. I'm not sure if I should make adjustments now or just let it ride for awhile. Having had to unexpectedly drain the pool last week I'm trying to avoid any chemical issues that require draining as a solution. Some of the neighbors are still a little annoyed with us swamping their yards (understandably). So I guess I'm trying not to overshoot the mark on CYA, SALT, & TA? Are those the values that require a partial drain to fix? Sorry for all the questions. I'm learning ?
 
If your salt is over 4,500, then the salt light will flash green indicating high salt but it will still work.

Red/green flashing is usually no flow or within 1 minute of startup.

The TA needs to be brought down.

Are you getting the salinity from Easytouch or a test kit or both?
 
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If your salt is over 4,500, then the salt light will flash green indicating high salt but it will still work.

Red/green flashing is usually no flow or within 1 minute of startup.

The TA needs to be brought down.

Are you getting the salinity from Easytouch or a test kit or both?
All of the test results are from the TF-100 kit. Salt is specifically from the K-1766.
 

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CYA, SALT, & TA? Are those the values that require a partial drain to fix?
CYA and Salt require a partial drain to lower. There are other ways to lower TA besides draining. We recommend using aeration to increase the pH, then add Muriatic Acid to drop pH. When you add the acid, some TA will be consumed and TA will drop. You repeat this process until you get the TA where you want it. It isn’t fast, but it does work.
 
Easytouch (or Intellitouch) is the automation control center. With all you have, they really should have used automation.

Even without automation, all you have to do is keep the salt correct by the test and make sure that the low salt light does not come on.

If the high salt light blinks, it's no big deal because the Intellichlor can work with high salt. I wouldn't worry too much about the salinity unless it's over 5,000.
 
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