First Day of School
- Thread starter TFRoger123
- Start date
As you can see, it's pretty cloudy on the deep end. I'm going to vacuum either today or tomorrow.
Crazy thing happened by the way... I had to go away for a day. I left the pump running. I came back today. The water level sunk below the skimmer. I've never seen it lose water that fast.
Crazy thing happened by the way... I had to go away for a day. I left the pump running. I came back today. The water level sunk below the skimmer. I've never seen it lose water that fast.
Welcome Roger! I'll be in North Babylon in a couple week's time to visit family and give my wife and kids their annual dosing of Lawnguy-Land--my wife grew up in West Babylon.
The good folks here will steer you to success with clear directions and tested methods. You'll have your pool clean and clear in no time!
You know I never noticed the pronunciation until you spelled it.
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OK Test kit is in. Testing has been completed.
CC = 1
FC = 8
CH = 175
TA = 110
CYA = 0
pH = 7.5
Cl Br = 5 10
Right now the pool is a very bright blue. Look like a clean blue. But in the past I was able to see through to the bottom on the deep end. I can only see the bottom on the shallow end.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,725
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
With a CYA of 0 I would think it is very difficult to have 8 ppm FC in the pool unless you added chlorine right before the test. Have you added any CYA containing products recently? Stabilizer, conditioner, trichlor pucks, dichlor powder?
IF you have 0 CYA, you need to add 30 ppm worth of CYA powder. Use PoolMath. Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.
Add enough muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2. Again, use PoolMath.
Then raise your FC to shock level based on a 30 ppm CYA using [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That would be 12 ppm FC. Follow the SLAM Process process.
You do not say if this is a gunite/plaster pool. If so, your CH is too low. Raise it to 350 ppm with calcium chloride.
Take care.
IF you have 0 CYA, you need to add 30 ppm worth of CYA powder. Use PoolMath. Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.
Add enough muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2. Again, use PoolMath.
Then raise your FC to shock level based on a 30 ppm CYA using [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That would be 12 ppm FC. Follow the SLAM Process process.
You do not say if this is a gunite/plaster pool. If so, your CH is too low. Raise it to 350 ppm with calcium chloride.
Take care.
I was adding conditioner, but i stopped when I started vacuuming the pool, and also because I was awaiting the TF-100. I just put in a pound.
How can I tell what what type of material my pool is made out of?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,725
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Typically the pool type is pretty straight forward.
A Vinyl liner looks like, well, vinyl. It normally has some kind of bead receiver along and just under the coping.
A fiberglass pool is very smooth and looks like a bathtub.
A gunite / plaster pool is normally a touch rough (compared to the vinyl or fiberglass).
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A pound of CYA in your pool equates to less than 5 ppm.
I would suggest you add ~ 7 lbs of CYA powder. That will get to almost 40 ppm CYA.
A Vinyl liner looks like, well, vinyl. It normally has some kind of bead receiver along and just under the coping.
A fiberglass pool is very smooth and looks like a bathtub.
A gunite / plaster pool is normally a touch rough (compared to the vinyl or fiberglass).
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A pound of CYA in your pool equates to less than 5 ppm.
I would suggest you add ~ 7 lbs of CYA powder. That will get to almost 40 ppm CYA.
I was just about to say he had a vinyl lined pool but PoolGuy beat me to it. With vinyl pools (unless you have a heater) you do *not* need to worry about low calcium. Solar heat doesn't count as a heater.
Maddie
Maddie
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I think it was the reason why my pool began going from Green to Blue.
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Thanks
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I was just about to say he had a vinyl lined pool but PoolGuy beat me to it. With vinyl pools (unless you have a heater) you do *not* need to worry about low calcium. Solar heat doesn't count as a heater.
Maddie
Thanks. There is so much knowledge to know how to care for a pool. Never would have guessed.
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I have been using Sodium Diclor to add chlorine to my pool. I have noticed that the CYA has been increasing steadily. I think I'm around 20 ppm at this point. Once I get to 30ppm - 40 ppm. I'll switch to a chlorine without CYA. How does that sound?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,725
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That's fine. Be aware the low CYA level lets FC get used up quickly in the sun. So add liquid chlorine as necessary. Also the dichlor is acidic, so watch your pH.
Today's reading:
CYA = 30
FC = 7
CC = 1
pH = 7.2
Cl Br = 5 10
TA = 70
CH = 250. The instructions for other test say mix the water after every drop, but for the CH test it does not. So I did not mix in each drop.
I think all I need to do now is raise the alkalinity
Nope. TA is fine. If you raise the TA, the pH will rise more quickly.
Also, you may want to let your pH stay a little higher (7.6-7.8 or so) as it will be more stable.
The CC = 1 is more than we like to see and could point to something in your water (or perhaps you are using a cover?)
You have to mix the water with each drop for all the tests, especially the CH. SpeedStir greatly helps with this.
Also, you may want to let your pH stay a little higher (7.6-7.8 or so) as it will be more stable.
The CC = 1 is more than we like to see and could point to something in your water (or perhaps you are using a cover?)
You have to mix the water with each drop for all the tests, especially the CH. SpeedStir greatly helps with this.
With the CC, the solution goes clear after one drop. I know .5 is more ideal. But then after a minute or so, itll turn a very very faint pink. So I factor in an additional drop.
Ignore the turn back to pink. Once you get the clear result, you are done with the test. So you really are 0.5
I'm surprised his CYA was so low if he was previously "shocking" the pool as instructed by the pool store.
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I was using Calcium Hypochlorite for to add chlorine initially. Last week I switched to Dichlor because the CYA was low. I also was always vacuuming. I guess the loss and replacement of water caused the CYA to drop.