Best CYA product

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A

andyth

0
Jun 23, 2018
36
Westborough, MA
Hi Guys,
A newb here and fairly new to pool ownership as well (1 full season - last year). Couple of things I learned on this forum (very useful),

1. Don't use test strips. They are all over the place and not worth the money. Dumped them all from last year.
2. Don't use the pool store testing. First of all, they seem to make s@#$ up. And they force you to buy chemicals you don't need. Was a victim of it last year with many 100s of $ wasted on them.

Anyways, opened the pool (little late this year). CYA and FC measure zero. Shocked the pool with CalHypo 73%. But, CYA is still zero. Wondering which of the following products are good?

They are fast dissolving crystals. 100% Cyanuric acid. Should I go with just the cheapest, as they are all 100% CYA, or brand name matters so go with Clorox? Or any other recommendations?

Also, how long can the CYA stay good and usable? A couple of years? If so, I can buy the 25 lbs. If not, go for smaller.

1. RX Clear - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SG3DZVO - About $2.2/lb.
2. Puritech - https://www.amazon.com/Puri-Tech-Stabilizer-Conditioner-Protection/dp/B011AD536G - About $ 1.81/lb.
3. AquaMater - OceanState - About $2.86/lb.
4. Clorox - Walmart - $3.72

Thanks for the help
Andy
 
Walmart used to have HTH stabilizer, but now it's all Clorox. Still good. I used it recently. About 99-100% cyanuric acid if I recall. Welcome to the forum! :wave:
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...
 
I would go with the least expensive.....it's all chemically the same.

You'll need roughly 10 lbs or so for the first dose but will need very little the rest of the swim season.

It's very stable so get what you want but you also don't want ANYTHING sitting for a couple of years.
 
andyth said:
Anyways, opened the pool (little late this year). CYA and FC measure zero. Shocked the pool with CalHypo 73%. But, CYA is still zero. Wondering which of the following products are good?
Click to expand...

Personally, i think if you're gonna stay on top of testing and dosing, then too much CYA is a bigger problem than too little, so i don't think i'd recommend a CYA-specific product; i just chlorinate with pucks when my CYA is low and chlorinate with hypo (liquid bleach) when my CYA is okay.
 
I would advise AGAINST the AquaMate at Ocean State. I used it for a few years and I had a terrible time trying to get my CYA up until I switched brands. I think their CYA isn’t as high a % as they claim.
 
Deb04 said:
I would advise AGAINST the AquaMate at Ocean State. I used it for a few years and I had a terrible time trying to get my CYA up until I switched brands. I think their CYA isn’t as high a % as they claim.
Click to expand...

I think you are right! I added about 9 lbs of Aquamate CYA last night. Haven't checked my CYA levels yet. Just waking up a foamed up pool, that I can't even see the pool right now. I am completely lost.

BTW, I just ordered (on Friday) the TF-100 test kit so waiting for it to come. Here are the readings from the stealer (er, dealer). Original readings from the pool store:
FAC - above 4, TAC - above 4, CH - 90, CYA - 0, TA - 110, pH - 8.0, Copper, Iron & Phosphates - 0. FAC/TAC high as I double shocked the pool with 73% CalHypo. Used about 5 bags, 4 days ago.

I followed their instructions and did the following:
1. Added Muriatic Acid to reduce the pH. Now it is close to 7.6 to 7.7 level.
2. Waited for 2 days and added the CYA close to 9 lbs. To raise 30 ppm on a 27.5k pool. Added CYA thru the skimmer sock method.

20180624_085500.jpg
Is this normal? Did I do something wrong?
Thanks guys
Andy
 
I think you are right! I added about 9 lbs of Aquamate CYA last night. Haven't checked my CYA levels yet. Just waking up a foamed up pool, that I can't even see the pool right now. I am completely lost.
Click to expand...

Oh dear! I’ve never had THAT happen with the AquaMate, just my CYA wouldn’t budge.
 
Texas Splash said:
Have you added anything else to the water other than cal-hypo, muriatic acid, and stabilizer?
Click to expand...

Here are the chronological list of events: (Pool size - 27.5K, Vinyl Pool with Sand filter).

  • Changed the State-Rite (Pentair) Cristal-Flo II sand filter with mystic white II sand - 200 lbs/4 bags. (Not sure how old the sand in the filter was. Looked very old and dirty). - 2 weeks ago.
  • Opened the pool. Removed pool cover. Started the pump/filter. Vacuumed debris. Skimmed large debris - 1 week ago.
  • Pool looked like Shrek’s swamp. Dark green with a ton of sediments. [Winter cover - Loop Loc mesh cover]
  • Double Shocked the pool with Leslie's Power Powder Plus (73% CalHypo) 4 bags in a gap of 2 days - 1 week ago.
  • Added another bag of 73% CalHypo a day later. - 1 week ago. Total of 5 bags of CalHypo. The recommendation was 2 bags, but given the condition, I was told to double shock it.
  • Readings about 3 days later - FAC above 4, TAC - above 4, CH - 90, CYA - 0, TA - 110, pH - 8.0, Copper, Iron, & Phosphates - 0
  • Pool still looked strong green. Was told to bring the pH down and then do the CYA up before adding the clarifier.
  • Added 1.5 qt Muriatic acid to bring the pH level from 8.0 to 7.7 to 7.8 - 2 days ago.
  • Added about 10 lbs of Aquamatic Stabilizer to bring the CYA level up. Half first day and the rest next day to the skimmer sock - 1 to 2 days ago.
  • Added Aquamatic Algecide to kill the green algae as the green was not changing fast enough. - 1 to 2 days ago.
  • Pool foamed up and looked like the earlier picture this morning.
  • Added about 14 oz of Leslie Pool Clarifier - this morning
  • Current readings - FAC 3, TAC - 3, CH - 200, CYA - 30, TA - 110, pH - 7.8, Copper, Iron, & Phosphates - 0
  • Except for a few backwashes, and rinsing, the pump has been running constantly.


The foam on the pool seems to have settled down. But the pool still looks cloudy green. Still waiting on the TF-100 kit. But did go to the pool store today and they said everything looks good. But pool doesn’t look very inviting.

This is the current picture:
20180624_173424.jpg
I have seen a few posts in here suggesting they were up and running in a matter of days. After a week, mine is still lukewarm :) Wondering if I am doing this all wrong. Last year, I had the pool up and running in about 3 or 4 days. Followed the same procedure (except reducing the pH).
 

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Also, wondering if it is because I didn't vacuum the pool properly. The bottom was not very visible so I vacuumed the best I could. A lot of organic material - leaves, sediment, etc. still there. Just scrapped the bottom with a long butterfly brush in the areas I can reach, hoping got most of them as I can't see a thing.

Pool still looks like the above pic - very cloudy green. This morning I saw few frogs on the pool that I had to skim out. Wondering what else can I be doing to get this in shape?

Current readings - FAC 3, TAC - 3, CH - 200, CYA - 30, TA - 110, pH - 7.8, Copper, Iron, & Phosphates - 0

Pool stores asked me to add the "Perfect Weekly" product 4 cups. Not sure if I want to add more chemicals at this point.

Any recommendations?
Thanks guys
"Very frustrated" Andy


 
I would suggest you come to a 'full stop' until you receive your test kit. The potions the pool store has had you add is now a chemical soup. The algaecide, which is to never be added to a pool WITH algae, made it foam up. What was the chemical name of the algaecide?

Clarifier is glue. So your new sand has glue in it. Be prepared to deep clean it soon and potentially change the sand.

Do not fall for the 'perfect weekly' scam. That is another clarifier to remove phosphates. That are of no consequence to your pool chemistry.

I suggest you add 1 gallon of liquid chlorine each evening until your test kit arrives. Run the tests and post them up.

Take care.
 
Thanks!
I added this Algaecide (non-metallic) 1 qt about 4 days ago. https://www.amazon.com/Pool-Mate-1-2150-02-Algaecide-Swimming/dp/B00JCAPH8Y/
When you say add 1 gal of LC what concentration would you recommend? My local Ocean State has this 12.5% LC or should I go for a lower concentration?
https://www.oceanstatejoblot.com/pool-shock-1-gal/product/97194

And, is there a particular reason why a bunch of frogs are interested in my chemical soup now? Just got a notification that my TF-100 test kit is shipped. Hopefully, it will arrive in a few days.
 
The ocean state stuff is just fine.
You have learned the first two things well, no pool store or strips and ordered your kit.
Now you just gotta brush up on the TFP method. Read the pool school and Slam stuff.
I am in MA too and the only things I need for my pool with this method is Liquid Bleach and Muriatic acid.
These guys will get you up and running in the right direction in no time, just follow their advice and procedures in SLAM and the dosages in Pool Math and you should be cleared up by the weekend.
 
No idea on the frogs.

The algaecide you added is ammonia based. So your chlorine demand will be high until it is oxidized. I would change that to 2 gallons of LC (10% or 12.5%) per day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Much of it will be consumed by the ammonia but hopefully that will be gone by the time you get your test kit.
 
mknauss said:
I would suggest you come to a 'full stop' until you receive your test kit. The potions the pool store has had you add is now a chemical soup. The algaecide, which is to never be added to a pool WITH algae, made it foam up. What was the chemical name of the algaecide?

Clarifier is glue. So your new sand has glue in it. Be prepared to deep clean it soon and potentially change the sand.

Do not fall for the 'perfect weekly' scam. That is another clarifier to remove phosphates. That are of no consequence to your pool chemistry.

I suggest you add 1 gallon of liquid chlorine each evening until your test kit arrives. Run the tests and post them up.

Take care.
Click to expand...

So I got the TF-100 test kit today. After checking the contents I realized that they missed the R-0009 (instead sent two R-0007 bottles). I am not sure if they sent an R-0007 instead of an R-0009 or they mislabelled an R-0009 as an R-0007.

1. Do the R-0007 and R-0009 look very different? By looking at the picture below can anyone identify if I got 2 of R-0007? or a mislabelled R-0009?
2. Looks like R-0009 is used for Alkalinity testing. Do I really need to wait for it or can I start the SLAM process without it? The TA tested at local pool store said it is at 90 - within range.

20180627_213357.jpg
I will test the rest and post the results tomorrow. The pool store test from today says everything is within range (except CH).
FAC - 2, TAC - 2, CH - 90 (low), CYA - 40, TA - 90, pH - 7.8, Copper - 0, Iron - 0, Phosphates - 0.

Thanks
Andy
 
Well that's a bummer. I have PM'd the owner.

You can use the TA from the store. It is used to determine the amount of acid to add to lower pH and is in a reasonable range.

Post up your results tomorrow.
 
I'm with mknauss that the TA result from the store is fine for now and you're ready to SLAM.

Read Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain , gather your supplies (several gallons of liquid chlorine), adjust your pH to between 7.2 and 7.5, and when you're ready to interact with the pool 2-4 times/day for a couple of days (that is, maybe wait 'til friday evening if you have a busy work week), bring your chlorine up to at least 12ppm (per Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart ), a little higher if you aren't pretty confident in your CYA measurement, filter continuously, and test every 3-4 hours (but it's fine to get a full night's sleep), adding chlorine as needed to maintain your slam level. Keep us posted on how much chlorine your pool eats -- it should be a lot at first.

( i don't know much about vinyl liners or sand filters, but How high chlorine level in vinyl pool? sounded relatively reassuring about reasonable SLAM levels and the SLAM page mentions that sand filters are a little slower than other kinds, but should be fine. )

i definitely don't know why the pool store would suggest bringing up the CYA before you got things clear; while it does slow down the UV-breakdown of chlorine, it significantly increases the amount of chlorine needed to kill+destroy contaminants. also, i really wouldn't add anything that raises the CYA until you're done SLAMing, as that would raise the required SLAM level and would increase the time it takes for your post-SLAM chlorine levels to fall back to normal.

see also some of the charts in Pool Water Chemistry -- note the pH-based charts (down under "Chlorine/pH/CYA Relationships") where you can see that getting the pH under 7.5 makes some difference in chlorine efficacy.

anyway, best of luck and keep us posted!

( incidentally, re: post-SLAM chlorine levels, if your water is crystal clear and you've passed your OCLT but you're too eager to swim to wait for the level to drift down in the sun, the hydrogen peroxide trick really does work -- Hydrogen peroxide to lower FC. -- add a pint of 3% drugstore H2O2 run the pump for a half hour and measure )
 

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