CYA levels and a dying SWG?

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Johnmarkpainter

Johnmarkpainter

0
Apr 19, 2016
74
Hendersonville, TN
I have an SWG pool and topped off the salt for this season.
As your Cell wears out, and if I find myself having to manually add lot of chlorine this season, how does that bear on what my CYA should be?

My CYA is 70 at the moment.
I'm still getting the water balanced so don't know how the cell is doing.
I cleaned it with Muriatic last season.

The Cell is probably 4 years old.
I haven't decided if I want to replace the cell or just go manual.
 
If the majority of your chlorine is coming from manual chlorination then you need to start follow that chart and not the SWG chart. That means a higher FC level and adding enough so you don't fall below the minimum for manually chlorinated pools.
 
BUMMER

My SWG is reading 0 and it won't recalibrate. The cell is at least 5 years old so not a shocker.
The bad thing is that I already raised my CYA level.
I need to do a series of tests but I think it is still at 70 which is 'not recommended' on the CYA Chart for NON SWG poola.

Can I limp through this season (having to keep higher FC manually) and let the CYA deplete on it's own gradually?
What are the downsides other than the obvious of having to buy more Chlorine?
 
The concerns of running a manually chlorinated pool with 70 CYA are a bit overblown IMO. You can handle it just fine and won't really go through more chlorine throughout the season UNLESS you have to SLAM. That is where it will become a chore because you will need to get your FC up pretty high and keep it there. The only real issue is if your FC is over 10 then your pH test is skewed, but that shouldn't come up often unless you accidentally overdose the chlorine. 70 is fairly manageable, you won't have to limp and as long as you stay on top of testing and dosing you will do fine.
 
Avg Salt 0
Temp 80
Voltage 32.8
Amperage 0.00
100%
Instant Salt -0
Program Code AL-0
Circuit board r1.58
Cell Size T-15

Check Salt and Inspect Cell error lights are on.
When you reset, it says "Generating" for a few minutes before it gives up (Amperage still says 0.00 during that time).

So I THINK that looks like a textbook "buy a new cell".
Am I on track?

THANKS!
 
Try one more thing before buying a new cell. Turn off the system and unplug the small display board and then reseat it. Every now and then the contacts stop making connections and will cause these types of symptoms.
 

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Donldson said:
The concerns of running a manually chlorinated pool with 70 CYA are a bit overblown IMO. You can handle it just fine and won't really go through more chlorine throughout the season UNLESS you have to SLAM. That is where it will become a chore because you will need to get your FC up pretty high and keep it there. The only real issue is if your FC is over 10 then your pH test is skewed, but that shouldn't come up often unless you accidentally overdose the chlorine. 70 is fairly manageable, you won't have to limp and as long as you stay on top of testing and dosing you will do fine.
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I agree with this 100%. I took over my pool with a CYA of about 250 (CYA tests above 100 are just a guess, not very specific contrary to what the pool store says). With a CYA of 250 I had to keep my chlorine level at around 20 (18.75 was teh minimum) just to keep algae away.away. Over 18 months of aggressive backwashing and harvesting rainwater from roof gutters I was able to get into a normal zone.

But, you have to be diligent with the chlorine. I actually went with a Stenner pump setup to make sure the pool had chlorine even when we went camping for a few days.
 
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