Need clarification from the masters

[michie]

Hello -

I thought I had this stuff at least semi figure out - but I don't. Any help would be greatly appreciated - I have two separate issues

Inground pool - 15000 Gallons

I'll start with what I think is the easier one - We had a pool company open it a few days ago; it cleared up pretty good, but we still have that light green tint and it won't hold chlorine. So I assume algae? We had CYA issues last year so I am scared to use shock and wanted to try just bleach. But I feel like these charts are telling me I need 13 gallons of bleach? Am I calculating this right?

I tested everything I could with the kit we have & got these numbers

Chlorine - .>1
PH - 7.2
Alkalinity - 130
CYA - 30

The other issue - our Polaris keeps stopping. Any clue why? Sometimes it will just completely stop; sometimes it just sort of keels over and the wheels keep spinning...

 

[triptyx]

I put 30 CYA, 15k gallons and 0 FC into PoolMath (the link is in the top bar of this site).

At 30 CYA, suggested SLAM levels for chlorine is 12ppm. So I put 12ppm into the target FC, and I get 267oz, or a little over two 121oz jugs of 8.25% concentrated bleach - a hair over two gallons. I'm not sure where you're getting 13 gallons?

You're correct in that you don't want to use granular or solid shock - that will add other things to your pool that you don't want or need just now.

So, it's time to buy a bunch of bleach and SLAM! Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

 

[RonsPlc]

My first question to you would be what test kit do you have for your pool water?
If you don't already have one of the recommended ones, you are going to need it. You will find links to them in my signature.
Walmart has their 10% pool bleach in stock right now, and it is a great product from what I have heard.
If your CYA is at 30 right now, leave it there... Once your water is clear, you will want to bump it up to deal with this southern sun. I found 50 to be the sweet spot for me.
If you could edit your signature to show what type of pool, and the size, and the test kit you are using. As well as your equipment... pump, filter type... etc.
It helps us out when trying to help you out.

 

[michie]

So glad I asked - 13 seemed high to me. I read on another site 1 gallon would raise the PPM of 30K pool 2 PPM; so if I am close to 0; so I would need 12-13 gallons for a 15K pool.

- - - Updated - - -

My first question to you would be what test kit do you have for your pool water?
If you don't already have one of the recommended ones, you are going to need it. You will find links to them in my signature.
Walmart has their 10% pool bleach in stock right now, and it is a great product from what I have heard.
If your CYA is at 30 right now, leave it there... Once your water is clear, you will want to bump it up to deal with this southern sun. I found 50 to be the sweet spot for me.
If you could edit your signature to show what type of pool, and the size, and the test kit you are using. As well as your equipment... pump, filter type... etc.
It helps us out when trying to help you out.

Thanks! I am using the HTH 6 way kit - what is the best way to raise the CYA after i get it clear?

I'll add this to my signature what i figured out how to
Inground
15000 Gallons
HTH 6 Way test Kit
Hayward Sand Filter

 

[Philo]

"So glad I asked - 13 seemed high to me. I read on another site 1 gallon would raise the PPM of 30K pool 2 PPM; so if I am close to 0; so I would need 12-13 gallons for a 15K pool."


Say whaaaaaat?

 

[JeanZ1]

 

[DeanP66]

Regarding your Polaris issue. It's probably something mechanical. If you're just a little mechanically inclined, you could try taking it apart and seeing how everything works. I bet something is broken in there. Could be the drive shaft. If you take it apart, you can really get a good look at how everything is supposed to work. You can order specific parts online. Most of them are not that expensive.

As for your test kit, it does not contain the chlorine test that you need for your SLAM. It is not exact enough, nor does it go high enough for your purposes. You need the FAS-DPD chlorine test which consists of a powder that you add to the sample which turns it pink and drops that you add until it goes completely clear. It's very accurate up to 50 PPM. You need to go to at least 12 PPM and possibly more if you have a higher CYA than 30. Without this specific chlorine test, you are just driving blind. You need to follow the SLAM procedure to a T.

 

[michie]

"So glad I asked - 13 seemed high to me. I read on another site 1 gallon would raise the PPM of 30K pool 2 PPM; so if I am close to 0; so I would need 12-13 gallons for a 15K pool."


Say whaaaaaat?

Yeah - I am mathing correcting here right? According to this site - 12/13 gallons?

Measure the volume of your pool to determine how much bleach you need. Multiply the width of the pool by the length, and multiply again by the average depth of the water to find the water volume. Calculate the amount of bleach you need based on the fact that 1 gallon will raise the free chlorine level of 30,000 gallons of water by 2 ppm. If you need to mildly shock a 30,000-gallon pool by raising the free chlorine concentration to 5 ppm, you need 2.5 gallons of bleach. To raise it to 10 ppm, you need 5 gallons.

- - - Updated - - -

Regarding your Polaris issue. It's probably something mechanical. If you're just a little mechanically inclined, you could try taking it apart and seeing how everything works. I bet something is broken in there. Could be the drive shaft. If you take it apart, you can really get a good look at how everything is supposed to work. You can order specific parts online. Most of them are not that expensive.

As for your test kit, it does not contain the chlorine test that you need for your SLAM. It is not exact enough, nor does it go high enough for your purposes. You need the FAS-DPD chlorine test which consists of a powder that you add to the sample which turns it pink and drops that you add until it goes completely clear. It's very accurate up to 50 PPM. You need to go to at least 12 PPM and possibly more if you have a higher CYA than 30. Without this specific chlorine test, you are just driving blind. You need to follow the SLAM procedure to a T.

OKay - I will have my husband tinker with that later.

As for the test - I could get accurate results form the pool store for now then right? I would have to wait a few days for a better test to get delivered.

 

[Mr Bruce]

Use this for determining pool dosage: PoolMath

Pool stores have very unreliable tests. We don't trust them at all.

You need to SLAM and to do that you need a real test kit. Add a gallon of bleach a day with the pump running and brush the entire pool. When you get your test kit post your numbers and then you can SLAM.

 

[michie]

My first question to you would be what test kit do you have for your pool water?
If you don't already have one of the recommended ones, you are going to need it. You will find links to them in my signature.
Walmart has their 10% pool bleach in stock right now, and it is a great product from what I have heard.
If your CYA is at 30 right now, leave it there... Once your water is clear, you will want to bump it up to deal with this southern sun. I found 50 to be the sweet spot for me.
If you could edit your signature to show what type of pool, and the size, and the test kit you are using. As well as your equipment... pump, filter type... etc.
It helps us out when trying to help you out.

Is the correct test kit? It is a bit cheaper the one in your link and I have Prime so ill get it Friday, but want to make sure it is the same or comparable?

https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-2006-CHLORINE/dp/B004BGF7TI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524078472&sr=8-2&keywords=tf-100+test+kit

- - - Updated - - -

Use this for determining pool dosage: PoolMath

Pool stores have very unreliable tests. We don't trust them at all.

You need to SLAM and to do that you need a real test kit. Add a gallon of bleach a day with the pump running and brush the entire pool. When you get your test kit post your numbers and then you can SLAM.

Dang really? No fun - can you clarify though - are you saying add 1 gallon/day now until i get the correct test? Should i keep my pump running 24/7 until then?

 

[Arizonarob]

Yeah - I am mathing correcting here right? According to this site - 12/13 gallons?

Measure the volume of your pool to determine how much bleach you need. Multiply the width of the pool by the length, and multiply again by the average depth of the water to find the water volume. Calculate the amount of bleach you need based on the fact that 1 gallon will raise the free chlorine level of 30,000 gallons of water by 2 ppm. If you need to mildly shock a 30,000-gallon pool by raising the free chlorine concentration to 5 ppm, you need 2.5 gallons of bleach. To raise it to 10 ppm, you need 5 gallons.

- - - Updated - - -



OKay - I will have my husband tinker with that later.

As for the test - I could get accurate results form the pool store for now then right? I would have to wait a few days for a better test to get delivered.

You could get a more accurate result by putting numbers on a dart board and throwing a dart, then you would at any pool store!!

Do as others have suggested, get either TF-100 or Taylor K2006C test kit. Both of those kits will give you a complete and accurate test results on all the important readings you’ll need to maintain your pool correctly and safely.

- - - Updated - - -

Is the correct test kit? It is a bit cheaper the one in your link and I have Prime so ill get it Friday, but want to make sure it is the same or comparable?

https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHN...id=1524078472&sr=8-2&keywords=tf-100+test+kit

- - - Updated - - -



Dang really? No fun - can you clarify though - are you saying add 1 gallon/day now until i get the correct test? Should i keep my pump running 24/7 until then?

The difference between the K2006 and the K2006C is the size of the bottles in the kit. It’s a better value to get the bigger kit.
Here it is
https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Service-Complete-Water-K-2006C/dp/B0002IXIJ0

 

[michie]

Thanks everyone - ordered the correct test kit; will post numbers when I get it. Should I be doing anything in the meantime though?

 

[RonsPlc]

With your size of pool... 1 gallon of bleach in the morning, and another in the evening until your kit comes in.

 

[michie]

With your size of pool... 1 gallon of bleach in the morning, and another in the evening until your kit comes in.

Perfect - thanks!!

 

[Demegrad9]

Measure the volume of your pool to determine how much bleach you need. Multiply the width of the pool by the length, and multiply again by the average depth of the water to find the water volume. Calculate the amount of bleach you need based on the fact that 1 gallon will raise the free chlorine level of 30,000 gallons of water by 2 ppm. If you need to mildly shock a 30,000-gallon pool by raising the free chlorine concentration to 5 ppm, you need 2.5 gallons of bleach. To raise it to 10 ppm, you need 5 gallons.

Just to follow up on an older point on this thread. Anytime you see advice like this, alarm bells should be going off. For instance the idea that 1 gallon will raise... How could anyone ever make such a statement without qualifying it with the strength of the bleach? Most bleach used to be 8.25% sodium hypochlorite, now it seems like 6% is more common, hardware stores usually sell 10%, and other places often offer 12.5%, the strength must be specified in order to say how much FC will increase in a given volume of water.

Also all this talk in the quote of 'shock' your pool or better yet 'mildly shock' is just very vague as to what that even means. Here you'll hear talk about SLAM'ing your pool, which means to bring it up to a Shock Level and maintain that level until the algae or whatever else is gone.

Anyway, welcome! And if you receive funny sounding advice somewhere always be sure to run it by the experts here first.

 

[Philo]

Say whaaaaat? .......

Your pool is 15,000 gallons.
The instructions say if your pool is 30,000 gallons, 1 gallon will raise it 2 ppm. That means it will raise your pool 4 ppm (1/2 the size).
The CYA/FC chart says to bring it to 12 ppm.
You have 0 ppm--you want 12 ppm---1 gallon of Chlorine raises your pool 4 ppm--- 12 ppm divided by 4 ppm = 3 gallons.

 

[michie]

Say whaaaaat? .......

Your pool is 15,000 gallons.
The instructions say if your pool is 30,000 gallons, 1 gallon will raise it 2 ppm. That means it will raise your pool 4 ppm (1/2 the size).
The CYA/FC chart says to bring it to 12 ppm.
You have 0 ppm--you want 12 ppm---1 gallon of Chlorine raises your pool 4 ppm--- 12 ppm divided by 4 ppm = 3 gallons.

- apparently I am lacking in the Math department. Haha - Well I should have the recommended test kit this afternoon; I will post updated numbers later today.

 

[michie]

Okay - I'm back with some new numbers

FC - 1.8
CC - 7.4
PH - 7.0 Is this too low now?
TA - 130
CH - 0 ? It turns blue/purple when I put the regent in - so that means 0 CH right?
CYA - 32

So I plugged everything into the PoolMath calculator and it says 318oz of bleach

So my new questions are

Do I need to raise my PH first?
How often am I adding this much bleach until the algae is gone? It's this a once a day thing? Twice a day?
Do i need to keep adjusting the amount of bleach depending on new numbers during the SLAM process?

 

[DeanP66]

Your pH is a little low, but with your TA of 130, I would just leave it alone and let it climb on its own. Ideally, you want it at 7.2 to do a SLAM, so you're fine.

Most people on here will tell you that when your CYA goes above every line of ten, you should round it up to the the next 10. So, call yours 40 and SLAM at that level with your FC at 16 instead of 12. Depending on how much algae is in your water, the more often you recheck the FC and top it up to 16, the better. The SLAM will go faster this way. It's not just a one time addition and forget it. I would do it at least 3 times a day, if possible, if not more at the beginning of the SLAM. What you'll find is that when first starting the SLAM, the FC will disappear very quickly as it eats away at the algae. Once you get close to being done, the FC will start holding a lot longer and you won't have to top it up as often.

Did you check your fill water's CH. Is it really 0? If so, that's some soft water. Ours here in San Jose is around 300. Are you sure you you did the test right? 25ml sample with 20 drops of first bottle, 5 drops of bottle 2, and only 1 drop to turn it completely blue?

If it's really that low, you should get some calcium in there, especially if you have a plaster pool. I didn't see you specify it anywhere. Plaster needs some, otherwise the water will leech it out of your plaster surface. Vinyl doesn't really need any, but you could still keep just a small amount in (under 200).

 

[RonsPlc]

you don't specify what you have... plaster, vinyl, or Fiberglass for your pool surface type.
At this point, I would put 2/3 that much bleach into the pool to start it killing off whatever is causing the green, then test again in 1/2 hr.
Have you read the SLAM methods, and understand them?