We have a Hayward H400IDL2 pool heater that ignites and runs normally at start up. After about 10 minutes it begins to repeatedly cycle off and on before finally throwing an IF code. We've had multiple service calls from 2 different pool companies and have replaced the gas valve, flame sensor, igniter and control board. They say they don't know what else to do at this point and suspect it's a gas supply issue even though it checks out ok. Southwest Gas checked the gas meter and supply line - all ok. They also verified the heater operating inlet pressure as 4.6"wc and operating outlet pressure as 2.5"wc . Is it possible this could be caused by a defective water pressure switch or some other water flow issue ? I can't keep paying for these unproductive service calls and am trying to fix it myself at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated. We are in Henderson NV if anyone knows of an outstanding heater repair tech.
Hayward Pool Heater IF code- Help Please !
- Thread starter stuboy
- Start date
Is water dripping out of the heater?
How old is the heater?
Check orifices for blockage (like from spider webs).
It might be due to moisture in the combustion chamber from a leaky heat exchanger.
How old is the heater?
Check orifices for blockage (like from spider webs).
It might be due to moisture in the combustion chamber from a leaky heat exchanger.
There is no water dripping out of heater and orifices have been removed and cleaned. Not sure how old this heater is, was there when we bought the home 5 years ago. If there is moisture in the combustion chamber would it be obvious ( dripping water) ?
Check the heat exchanger from the top.
Turn off the pump and listen to the exchanger to see if you hear air getting sucked in.
Do you see a lot of rust?
Turn off the pump and listen to the exchanger to see if you hear air getting sucked in.
Do you see a lot of rust?
Will check this ASAP. Looks like a new replacement is in the $1400 range...Ouch! If that's the problem it looks like a new heater is in our future but I hope not. Thank you.
I had an “IF” from touchy solder in a Board, once the touch pad was re-secured it wouldn’t fire - only fired when the panel was in my hand.
Did you turn off the pump and listen to the exchanger?
If it's leaking and the heater is above the water level, you should hear air getting sucked in when you turn off the pump.
If not, pull the burners for inspection.
I will check the exchanger and burners.
Question about the new flame sensor I installed. The part # is IDXLFLS1930. The probe part of the new sensor is straight as is the old sensor that I replaced. However, all of the pictures of this part that I can find online have a bend in the probe. Does anyone know if this be straight or should it have a bend in it. Again the heater is Hayward H400IDL2.
Question about the new flame sensor I installed. The part # is IDXLFLS1930. The probe part of the new sensor is straight as is the old sensor that I replaced. However, all of the pictures of this part that I can find online have a bend in the probe. Does anyone know if this be straight or should it have a bend in it. Again the heater is Hayward H400IDL2.
As long as the flame sensor is touched by the flame, then it should be OK no matter if bent or not. If it is not directly in the flame, then you could have an issue and I would suggest a slight bend to make sure it sits in the flame.
If the unit runs for 10 minutes, that means it rectified that the flame was present and continued to run, and then starts cycling I would wonder if the hi-limit sensor are tripping in and out.
If the unit runs for 10 minutes, that means it rectified that the flame was present and continued to run, and then starts cycling I would wonder if the hi-limit sensor are tripping in and out.
If it was the high limit, the error code would be LO (Limit Open).
Flame rectification is continuously monitored. If the flame quality goes below a certain point at any time, the rectification is lost and the heater shuts down with an IF code.
Given that it starts and runs, I would suspect gas pressure, burner corrosion or moisture in the combustion chamber from a heat exchanger leak or external water source.
An external water source could be from a roof with no gutter dumping large amounts of water onto the heater or maybe a sprinkler system.
The insulation in the combustion chamber can absorb moisture and make it harder to find a leak.
The wet insulation can affect the flame quality.
What's the serial number?
Flame rectification is continuously monitored. If the flame quality goes below a certain point at any time, the rectification is lost and the heater shuts down with an IF code.
Given that it starts and runs, I would suspect gas pressure, burner corrosion or moisture in the combustion chamber from a heat exchanger leak or external water source.
An external water source could be from a roof with no gutter dumping large amounts of water onto the heater or maybe a sprinkler system.
The insulation in the combustion chamber can absorb moisture and make it harder to find a leak.
The wet insulation can affect the flame quality.
What's the serial number?
I will check above as soon as I can.
Looking back at my gas valve readings, is it possible for the operating outlet pressure at the manifold side to be too high ? Hayward chart says it should be 2.0"wc. We have 2.5"wc. Operating minimum load on the chart shows 3.0"wc. We have 4.6"wc.
Looking back at my gas valve readings, is it possible for the operating outlet pressure at the manifold side to be too high ? Hayward chart says it should be 2.0"wc. We have 2.5"wc. Operating minimum load on the chart shows 3.0"wc. We have 4.6"wc.
I don't think that it's a gas pressure issue but you can have it checked again if you think it might be the issue.
If it's a gas pressure issue would the error code likely be something other than IF ?
Low gas pressure can result in sooting of the exchanger.
Since you're seeing a clean exchanger, I don't think that it's a gas pressure issue.
Didn't the pressure get tested as ok?
Since you're seeing a clean exchanger, I don't think that it's a gas pressure issue.
Didn't the pressure get tested as ok?
They did say pressure is ok, but they may have just been confirming we have enough gas pressure. I'm wondering if the gas valve operating outlet pressure is too high. The Hayward chart states 2.0"wc. I have 2.5"wc.
Hayward IF code troubleshooting says to adjust gas valve if manifold pressure is too low or too high. It seems the pool techs would know this, but they didn't say anything about it. Maybe it's close enough, but Hayward troubleshooting indicates it need to be exact. Is an excess of .5"wc on the outlet side enough to cause issues ?
Hayward IF code troubleshooting says to adjust gas valve if manifold pressure is too low or too high. It seems the pool techs would know this, but they didn't say anything about it. Maybe it's close enough, but Hayward troubleshooting indicates it need to be exact. Is an excess of .5"wc on the outlet side enough to cause issues ?
Is it possible for a hi limit sensor to cause an IF code instead of the normal LO code under certain conditions ?
I don't think that it's a high limit.
If means that you're losing flame rectification.
If means that you're losing flame rectification.
ok, thanks.
What are your thoughts on the gas valve operating outlet pressure being 2.5"wc instead of recommended 2"wc. Could this cause the cycling on / off and then throwing the IF code ?
What are your thoughts on the gas valve operating outlet pressure being 2.5"wc instead of recommended 2"wc. Could this cause the cycling on / off and then throwing the IF code ?