How to clean bottom and sides

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RoxxW

RoxxW

0
Dec 14, 2016
128
Poquoson, VA
So I have semi transparent white cloudy pool water. In order for the chlorine to kill this white algae off, I need to get into the pool to sweep, vacuum the bottom and walls of the pool and ladder.

Read many post on here about swimming in this white cloudy water and its not safe to swim in. Right? So how does one accomplish the cleaning with out getting into the water?

Thanks

Roxx
 
RoxxW said:
So I have semi transparent white cloudy pool water. In order for the chlorine to kill this white algae off, I need to get into the pool to sweep, vacuum the bottom and walls of the pool and ladder.

Read many post on here about swimming in this white cloudy water and its not safe to swim in. Right? So how does one accomplish the cleaning with out getting into the water?

Thanks

Roxx
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Algae that has turned white/grey is dead algae. The reason we state not to swim in a cloudy pool is for swimmer's safety..... You need to be able to see someone who may be in trouble under the water.

If the cloudy water is simply dead algae, and not chemical related, it is fine to get in the pool and vacuum as long as you are maintaining FC (I am guessing that you are doing a SLAM?). Personally, I would shower as soon as I get out, would avoid getting the water in my mouth, and not wear my best swim trunks.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I understand the safety concern now. I was concerned about the health issues more than the swimming. After all, how many times did I go jump in my local lake as a kid that was full of green algae!! ;)

This is a new pool install and fill. I have my SWG running at 100% and pump/SWG running 12 hours/day. SWG is pumping out 3200 ppm but the water is a light milky color. I can sort of see my feet at the bottom.

My test kit (see signature) should be here this week. So I don't have any numbers to share with the Forum group yet. Hope to do that this Friday. Is this the forum to share those numbers in? :confused: I want to get the water crystal clear so I'm going to use the TFP methods.

Roxx



domct203 said:
Algae that has turned white/grey is dead algae. The reason we state not to swim in a cloudy pool is for swimmer's safety..... You need to be able to see someone who may be in trouble under the water.

If the cloudy water is simply dead algae, and not chemical related, it is fine to get in the pool and vacuum as long as you are maintaining FC (I am guessing that you are doing a SLAM?). Personally, I would shower as soon as I get out, would avoid getting the water in my mouth, and not wear my best swim trunks.
Click to expand...
 
What is your SWCG rated for? You need it to be rated for at least 2X your pool volume or you will need to run it much more than you are to create sufficient chlorine.

See if your manual shows how much chlorine the unit can produce in 24 hours.

Take care.
 
mknauss said:
What is your SWCG rated for? You need it to be rated for at least 2X your pool volume or you will need to run it much more than you are to create sufficient chlorine.

See if your manual shows how much chlorine the unit can produce in 24 hours.

Take care.
Click to expand...
Excellent point. I believe that the Aqua Trol RJ is rated at 18,000 gallons, which would probably put it in the 0.7-0.8lbs per day range. That would generate about 4.7-5.3ppm in 24 hours at 100%. In other words, you will need to run the SWG pretty much 24/7 to cover your FC demand in the peak swimming season.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/122980-SWG-Run-Time-Calculator
 
Again, thanks for the prompt replies mknauss and dom.

I read the owners manual again and did not see what the Aqua Trol RJ is rated for. I'm sure when I bought the pool from pool factory I made sure all components were rated for a 18K pool.

Do you both concur with the guy above also? dumping bleach daily until the test kit arrives?

I run the pump 12 hours a day with SWG at 100%. The salt meter on the control panel says 3200ppm salt. Not sure what that means but it's in range with the equipment.

What does 4.7-5.3ppm mean Dom? FC?


domct203 said:
Excellent point. I believe that the Aqua Trol RJ is rated at 18,000 gallons, which would probably put it in the 0.7-0.8lbs per day range. That would generate about 4.7-5.3ppm in 24 hours at 100%. In other words, you will need to run the SWG pretty much 24/7 to cover your FC demand in the peak swimming season.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/122980-SWG-Run-Time-Calculator
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, that is 4.7-5.3ppm of FC. Running for 12 hours a day is making 2.3-2.7ppm of FC.

One gallon of 8.25% bleach in your 18,000 gallon pool will add 4.7ppm to FC, or about what your SWG makes in 24 hours at 100%, so yes, I would add at least a 1/2 gallon a day.
 
I think this might answer your question mknauss

From the manual"

The Aqua Trol incorporates a built in timer to control the pool filter. This timer
insures that the proper daily filtration and sanitization occurs. The Aqua Trol is
designed to handle the purification needs of the average residential above ground
swimming pool of up to 18,000 gallons (67,500 liters). The actual amount of chlorination
required to properly sanitize a pool varies depending upon bather load,
rainfall, temperature, and the pool's cleanliness.


mknauss said:
What is your SWCG rated for? You need it to be rated for at least 2X your pool volume or you will need to run it much more than you are to create sufficient chlorine.

See if your manual shows how much chlorine the unit can produce in 24 hours.

Take care.
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

So if I bump the pump/SWG to 24/7 and still add the bleach as proposed above, won't that knock the pool well out of that 4.7-5.3ppm range??

domct203 said:
Sorry, that is 4.7-5.3ppm of FC. Running for 12 hours a day is making 2.3-2.7ppm of FC.

One gallon of 8.25% bleach in your 18,000 gallon pool will add 4.7ppm to FC, or about what your SWG makes in 24 hours at 100%, so yes, I would add at least a 1/2 gallon a day.
Click to expand...
 

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Marty - just noticed your signature.

Is the speed stir worth the $35. I really wasn't sure about it.

Will the test kit have instructions telling me what to do?

mknauss said:
What is your SWCG rated for? You need it to be rated for at least 2X your pool volume or you will need to run it much more than you are to create sufficient chlorine.

See if your manual shows how much chlorine the unit can produce in 24 hours.

Take care.
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

One other thing...its ok for me to jump in the pool to clean the floor and walls and surface with this bleach going into it???

Yes, I will wear an old swim trunks that can get ruined.


domct203 said:
Sorry, that is 4.7-5.3ppm of FC. Running for 12 hours a day is making 2.3-2.7ppm of FC.

One gallon of 8.25% bleach in your 18,000 gallon pool will add 4.7ppm to FC, or about what your SWG makes in 24 hours at 100%, so yes, I would add at least a 1/2 gallon a day.
Click to expand...
 
I believe the speedstir is worth every penny. No need to swirl and drop. Just let the drops go in and the Speedstir handles it.

Your issue is your SWCG is rated for exactly the size of your pool. So when you have peak load, such as the summer sun with any amount of bather load, you will need to run your pump and SWCG 24/7 at 100% output. You should always purchase a SWCG that is rated for at least 2X your pool volume.

You can get in the pool if your FC is at or below your shock level based on your CYA.

The extra bleach suggested is due to you having active algae, according to your first post. The elevated chlorine additions are to keep it at bay until you get a proper test kit to perform a SLAM.

Take care.
 
The first guy, Dom, said my algae is dead because of the semi transparent milky color. I just need to keep them dead and get the chemistry right with the forums help!! :D

I thought green and mustard colors are indicators of active algae blooms?? :shark:

mknauss said:
I believe the speedstir is worth every penny. No need to swirl and drop. Just let the drops go in and the Speedstir handles it.

Your issue is your SWCG is rated for exactly the size of your pool. So when you have peak load, such as the summer sun with any amount of bather load, you will need to run your pump and SWCG 24/7 at 100% output. You should always purchase a SWCG that is rated for at least 2X your pool volume.

You can get in the pool if your FC is at or below your shock level based on your CYA.

The extra bleach suggested is due to you having active algae, according to your first post. The elevated chlorine additions are to keep it at bay until you get a proper test kit to perform a SLAM.

Take care.
Click to expand...
 
What you see are the dead algae. If you have FC consumption above the normal loss to UV you have algae. Algae exists in your water without it being visible.
 
You can't continue to have dead algae without live algae to kill. This is why one of the criteria to end a SLAM is clear water.

Believe me, once it's dead, it's dead, you just have to kill it faster than it can reproduce and the dead algae will go away.
 
Marty, Dom et all,
Test kit arrived yesterday. Testing now

What format do you want results in?

domct203 said:
You can't continue to have dead algae without live algae to kill. This is why one of the criteria to end a SLAM is clear water.

Believe me, once it's dead, it's dead, you just have to kill it faster than it can reproduce and the dead algae will go away.
Click to expand...
 
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Make sure you do the CYA test outside, in bright sunlight, back to the sun, reading the vial at about waist height in your shadow. I will fill the vial to 90, then glance for the dot, if I see it, I fill to 80, glance for the dot. I repeat until I can not see the dot at a glance. Don't stare for it, your eyes will play tricks and you'll think you see it.

Remember, you can pour the sample back into the mixing tube, shake, and repeat the test a few more times if needed. The important part is that you give the sample enough time to develop, I will shake for 15 sec, let it sit for 30-45 sec, shake again for 15 then go to it.
 

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