Though this is the SWG forum, it lists chemical dosing pumps as a potential topic to be discussed, so here I am! 
First of all, I have a Stenner 45MPHP10 pump for automatic chlorine dosing. It's a 10GPD unit, 100psi. It pumps 10% chlorine solution, which is the kind sold at Lowes/HD in the 2-pack box. Strength is very strong and fresh.
Something is going on with either my calculations, the actual dose rate, or a combo of both.
Preliminarily, here's what we're looking at: 10GPD = 1,280oz/day = 53.3oz/hour = 0.89oz/min. Seems straight forward...
To get my daytime FC loss rate, at sunrise I measured the levels in the pool water to be 12.5 ppm FC. And the end of the day, after the sun has set and no longer shining on the water, I remeasured the levels. FC = 9.0 ppm. So unless I'm going about it wrong, the total FC loss during the day is 3.5 ppm.
Therefore, for my 13k gal pool, to raise the FC a delta of 3.5 ppm, it would equal 58 oz of 10% bleach (PoolMath). Calculated run-time of the Stenner would be 65 minutes.
My goal, however, is not to raise the levels but to maintain. With that in mind, is a 3.5 ppm loss over a 12 hour period the same as a 3.5 ppm "maintenance loss," i.e. a 58-oz dosing, regardless?
I ask because I set my Stenner pump to run 3x during the day, with each run-time equaling 22 minutes (66 min total). Programming is done with the Wion Woods timer/app. First run was 8AM, second at 1PM (blazing sun), and third at 6PM.
At the start of the day, ready for the dosing test, FC measured at 9.0 ppm.
At the end of the day today, the pool water tests to be 12.5 ppm FC!
So how the heck did the FC level rise a total of a 7 ppm? That would take 116 oz of bleach and a run time of 131 minutes--no way!!! How is that even possible; 9.0 START - 3.5 LOSS + 3.5 DOSE = 12.5? Say what??!
My goal is to maintain a level of 9.0 ppm FC.
NOTE: I should mention that the day was partly sunny today and quite hot in the afternoon. Pool water is about 95F. Also worthy of a mention is that the variable-speed pool pump runs at 1800RPM at the 8AM dosing time and 1300RPM at both the 1PM and 6PM dosing times. (1300RPM is just enough cranking power to idle the pump and move water, keeping energy bills lower during the peak timeframe while allowing mid-day debris with storms and winds to be sucked up by the skimmer). The Stenner's output line connects to the pressure side of the plumbing, downstream of the filter. I've noted that at lower RPM's, if the line (and check valve) is removed, then water does not spray out of the hole. It almost pulls a slight vacuum in the pipe and air is sucked in. I mention all this to question if the slight vacuum is somehow allowing more chlorine to be pulled into the plumbing.
EDIT: There is only a vacuum created if the diverter valve for the heater is not bypassed. For the timeframe outlined above, the heater was bypassed, and the opening of the hole does indeed spray out water. However, I did notice this: the Stenner check-valve/duckbill pinches off the water more efficiently at a higher water pressure than a lower pressure. It does not seems like a typical check-valve. For example, if the pump runs at 1300 RPM, water backflows and dribbles out and/or creates a small stream. At 3000 RPM, on the other hand, water just occasionally drips. This could be a problem. I'm debating if the check-valve/duckbill is even necessary. It seems like a good safeguard, but it may be more trouble than what it's worth. But how could that cause more chlorine to flow?!? Still scratching my head on this one...
Thanks for helping me figure this out!
First of all, I have a Stenner 45MPHP10 pump for automatic chlorine dosing. It's a 10GPD unit, 100psi. It pumps 10% chlorine solution, which is the kind sold at Lowes/HD in the 2-pack box. Strength is very strong and fresh.
Something is going on with either my calculations, the actual dose rate, or a combo of both.
Preliminarily, here's what we're looking at: 10GPD = 1,280oz/day = 53.3oz/hour = 0.89oz/min. Seems straight forward...
To get my daytime FC loss rate, at sunrise I measured the levels in the pool water to be 12.5 ppm FC. And the end of the day, after the sun has set and no longer shining on the water, I remeasured the levels. FC = 9.0 ppm. So unless I'm going about it wrong, the total FC loss during the day is 3.5 ppm.
Therefore, for my 13k gal pool, to raise the FC a delta of 3.5 ppm, it would equal 58 oz of 10% bleach (PoolMath). Calculated run-time of the Stenner would be 65 minutes.
My goal, however, is not to raise the levels but to maintain. With that in mind, is a 3.5 ppm loss over a 12 hour period the same as a 3.5 ppm "maintenance loss," i.e. a 58-oz dosing, regardless?
I ask because I set my Stenner pump to run 3x during the day, with each run-time equaling 22 minutes (66 min total). Programming is done with the Wion Woods timer/app. First run was 8AM, second at 1PM (blazing sun), and third at 6PM.
At the start of the day, ready for the dosing test, FC measured at 9.0 ppm.
At the end of the day today, the pool water tests to be 12.5 ppm FC!
So how the heck did the FC level rise a total of a 7 ppm? That would take 116 oz of bleach and a run time of 131 minutes--no way!!! How is that even possible; 9.0 START - 3.5 LOSS + 3.5 DOSE = 12.5? Say what??!
My goal is to maintain a level of 9.0 ppm FC.
NOTE: I should mention that the day was partly sunny today and quite hot in the afternoon. Pool water is about 95F. Also worthy of a mention is that the variable-speed pool pump runs at 1800RPM at the 8AM dosing time and 1300RPM at both the 1PM and 6PM dosing times. (1300RPM is just enough cranking power to idle the pump and move water, keeping energy bills lower during the peak timeframe while allowing mid-day debris with storms and winds to be sucked up by the skimmer). The Stenner's output line connects to the pressure side of the plumbing, downstream of the filter. I've noted that at lower RPM's, if the line (and check valve) is removed, then water does not spray out of the hole. It almost pulls a slight vacuum in the pipe and air is sucked in. I mention all this to question if the slight vacuum is somehow allowing more chlorine to be pulled into the plumbing.
EDIT: There is only a vacuum created if the diverter valve for the heater is not bypassed. For the timeframe outlined above, the heater was bypassed, and the opening of the hole does indeed spray out water. However, I did notice this: the Stenner check-valve/duckbill pinches off the water more efficiently at a higher water pressure than a lower pressure. It does not seems like a typical check-valve. For example, if the pump runs at 1300 RPM, water backflows and dribbles out and/or creates a small stream. At 3000 RPM, on the other hand, water just occasionally drips. This could be a problem. I'm debating if the check-valve/duckbill is even necessary. It seems like a good safeguard, but it may be more trouble than what it's worth. But how could that cause more chlorine to flow?!? Still scratching my head on this one...
Thanks for helping me figure this out!