Liquidator Install Tips?

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These are just guesses at the part numbers, but I'd say the 3/8 kit is comprised of:

2 X PI011223S 3/8" MPT connector (to replace the 1/4" barbed fittings on the flow gauge)
2 X 3/8SCV check valve (to replace the included barbed fitting check valves)
1 X PPSV041212W quarter-turn valve (to replace the included barbed fitting quarter-turn valve)
1 X 2842G or similar teflon tape (to use on the MPT connectors' threads)

The vinyl tubing, flow gauge, saddle tap fittings, and floats are retained from the standard kit.

I don't know if there's anything special about the John Guest fittings, you might be able to substitute comparable Watts brand fittings from a home center / hardware store for some of the parts.
 
For anyone wondering on the 1stop kit, mine just came today. The answer is no, it does not include the 3/8 upgrade kit. But for the money saved, shouldn't have any trouble ordering a couple parts to complete it or finding them locally. I'm off tomorrow for some 3/8 tubing to 1/4 npts and a pipe tap. Hoping I can get the check valves local as well, otherwise those will get ordered.
 

For what it's worth, I put mine on the pump sump basket just because I don't like drilling holes in the equipment, and that way if I ever want to remove the LQ, then I just put the plug back in the pump, and it's as if the LQ was never installed :)

I find it works great that way, and I also plumbed the inlet side of the LQ so it goes into the drain plug from my heater, so I didn't have to drill any holes at all.[/quote]

This is the easiest and best method to use for installing the Liquidator. Flyboy hit a "home run" with this suggestion. I have used this method for 2 seasons along with the Hayward Needle Valve.


Thanks!
David
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bibeaud said:
For what it's worth, I put mine on the pump sump basket just because I don't like drilling holes in the equipment, and that way if I ever want to remove the LQ, then I just put the plug back in the pump, and it's as if the LQ was never installed :)

I find it works great that way, and I also plumbed the inlet side of the LQ so it goes into the drain plug from my heater, so I didn't have to drill any holes at all.
Click to expand...

old thread but why start a new one that would be the same?

how did this end up working?
my kit (with upgrade) should be here this week.

This is the easiest and best method to use for installing the Liquidator. Flyboy hit a "home run" with this suggestion. I have used this method for 2 seasons along with the Hayward Needle Valve.


Thanks!
David
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD[/QUOTE]
 
I installed my Liquidator thru the heater and pump basket drain plugs, and it's been working great for five years now. There's no reason to drill holes in your equipment. I also bought a needle valve (nice to have, but not need to have). I would also recommend making marks on the tank for each gallon up to eight so you know at a glance how much chlorine is in the tank.
 
pjt said:
I installed my Liquidator thru the heater and pump basket drain plugs, and it's been working great for five years now. There's no reason to drill holes in your equipment. I also bought a needle valve (nice to have, but not need to have). I would also recommend making marks on the tank for each gallon up to eight so you know at a glance how much chlorine is in the tank.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying to this "old thread" and keeping it going. And good tip with the gallon marks. Doc8404, please report back with your LQ install and how it's working for you.

I am debating the purchase and install of the LQ. Hooking up the tubing shouldn't be a problem for me as well. For the suction line, I can either use the pump-basket drain plug or an upstream suction port that was used for, but capped off, a retired-in-place QuikPure ozone machine. For the pressure-line, I can also use the drain plug on my heater, as several have mentioned already. So I'm good to go there. But I have one problem, and maybe I should seek out the LQ manual online for more info: I have a VS pump, with scheduled speed increases and decreases all day/night long. Will this cause problems?

Because of the VS pump, I can see the benefit to using a Stenner (or equivalent) pump for delivering chlorine. The LQ, however, would be a much simpler install.
 
I am considering the purchase of the Liquidator, as well. I currently have a Hayward CL1200 auto tablet chlorinator installed (not used - No tablets used). Can I install the Liquidator using the same holes drilled into the PVC. I will take photos tonight to post showing where the Hayward is installed. Looking to replace the Hayward as we never use pucks.

Thanks,

Alynn
 
Alynn said:
I am considering the purchase of the Liquidator, as well. I currently have a Hayward CL1200 auto tablet chlorinator installed (not used - No tablets used). Can I install the Liquidator using the same holes drilled into the PVC.
Click to expand...
Usually the input and output lines of a tablet chlorinator are on the pressure side of the filter so you can use one of these for the Liquidator in line. The Liquidators out line needs to be on the suction side of the pump so your best bet is to use the pump basket drain port for it.
 
Hey everyone,
I'm starting my second season using my Liquidator and I'm ashamed to say that I didn't keep it well maintained (i.e. cleaned out) the way I should have. I had very little water flowing through the tubing system. I had a bunch of salty scaling in the flow meter that I think was inhibiting the water flow. I removed that and left my valve wide open and 3 gal of bleach were used up within a few hours :) Long story, but I will want to replace my flow meter and at the same time probably install a better valve (still using the quarter-turn valve that came with the 3/8" upgrade kit). I've been searching the intergooglez for the flow meter, but can't quite find the one that came with the unit. Anyone know a part #? The one I have is labelled with "Rainbow Lifegard", but no part # on it. Also, I'd like to replace the black input and output connectors on it with the quick-connect connectors. Any idea which ones I would need?

Thanks in advance for any help
 

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