Hi, looking for advice. You guys have been great with guidance before.

Recently our LX220 seems to get the signal that it’s reached the temp at which to open the valve so pool water gets pumped to our black collectors on our roof, but it seems that only a minute or two after the valve is opened, the green solar indicator light on the LX220 goes out, the valve closes and water drains back down rather than getting heated. I see no red lights lit on the LX220 to indicate that sensors need service, but I suspect that the one on the roof may be at fault. But I don’t know for sure that this is the problem. Wondering if anyone reading this has dealt with this issue before? Do you know what could be causing this? What might I try to correct it? Any other cause for this valve behavior? Bad roof/sun sensor? Time to replace that one? Or some other fix? The manual override position does activate the valve and get the water up there, but I want it to work as designed and turn on and off automatically according to air/water temps. SO APPREDIATIVE OF ANY ADVICE!!

HOWONURTH

Thank you SO MUCH!! You guys are great!!

Howard Gindoff

I have a rental, and use Alexa for the renters to access the spa (I do not want to give them full ScreenLogic access). Today, the Alexa skill stopped working. I had this 3 months ago, and I fixed it by delinking and relinking my account. I tried that today, and the Skill was attempting to access the pentairpoolsso.com site, which was gone (for sale by GoDaddy!). Any thoughts on what is going on or what I should do? It appears to be an issue on the Pentair side.

For full disclosure, my set up Pentair Easy Touch = > Wireless to a Screen Logic 2 (use the app to control) <=> Alexa Pentair ScreenLogic Skill

As a secondary question, the Alexa link is nice but not always robust, are there any other suggestions of a better configuration for my setup?

Thanks!

So i live in middle georgia. Area is pretty hot and ill be adding water to pool every year. Im in the process of adding gutter to the house. I was thinking of directing gutter into a few rain barrels. The rain barrel will have overflow hose, and I want to direct the overflow hose into the pool. Im not concern about sediment as that will settle at the bottom of the rain barrel. Is this a good idea? My biggest concern is having to balance the pool after a big rain. Would the chemical cost outweight the water saving. I got a saltwater system.

Secondly, i want to move water away from my lawn. My lawn drainage suck and if I dont do this, then i will end up installing a french drain and directing the rain barrel overflow into the french drain.

My pool has those under water propellers that push water into the filter, but in some sections where it doesn't cover I end up with clay/fine dirt. I live somewhere where there is a lot of construction happening. I already tested for algae and everything is good. I know it's fine dirt, since I can see my backyard window covered with dirt and also the pool cover I put on top will gather dirt on top of it too.

I have a 5 galloon vacuum that I'm using right now just to vacuum the debris, but I was wondering of any other recommendation for it? I have the dolphin e30 and that works but doesn't catch all of it.

Thank you

We have had our pool for for a little over a year now and I just realized our skimmer does not have a weir door flap? Is this a problem?

Is there a way to add one? If so how would I found a proper door to fit it?

Hello everyone! First time pool owner and looking for helpful forums to navigate owning and maintaining a pool. I am also looking for tips to maintaining my own pool.

My prowler 930 finally kicked the bucket after 6 years of excellent service. It was the go to at the time on here. Purchased from Marina Pool and Spa. What the go to now? And store to purchase it? Thank you.

I had to replace the cell but whoever first installed it had the union joints flush against the pad so it is impossible to tighten or loosen by hand. Also, the fittings leak unless you over torque them with channel locks. The installer must have had the same issue because he used thread compound. The new cell came with unions so I plan to redo this mess and replace five elbows with only two and mount the cell vertically above a check valve in line above the pump outlet. Then loop back with two elbows to the return. I'll have to dig out to add a coupling at ground level.
This is coming from the Dejoyaux filter which has a two speed pump and a bypass loop.
My other question is, what's the point of this Heyward pump since the system included the two speed? The problem is when the main pump is on high speed, the Hayward has to be running as well or else the pressure blows out the strainer pot gasket.

I’m doing a lap pool that is long and narrow, so I need feedback on which of the two approaches below is better for the locations of the skimmers and returns. My main hesitation with approach B is that after about 20 feet, the water flow from the return will spread out to a lot of the narrow width of the pool, and run directly into and up against the water coming from the return on the opposite end. If so, it seems the flow (and the leaves) wouldn’t reach the skimmer on the opposite end, and too many leaves would get stuck at the center of the pool where the two currents meet. Any thoughts on that or other issues with layout B?

My question with layout A is if any issues may occur if the flow is going only in 1 direction, or if there’s no skimmer on one end? I’m going to get a soft-sided above ground pool, and the cutouts will need to be done in advance by a factory. The dimensions will be about 44’ long by 8’ to 9’ wide by 46” deep water. I can’t go much wider since the spot in my yard is narrow. I really appreciate advice or feedback. Thanks

Has anyone found a way in 2025 to integrate the OmniPL with Google Home as Hayward said from release that would be possible? I called support, they said that someone would call me back which never happened, I searched for it, nothing. There are some instructions on how you may integrate it with Home Assistant but it seems cumbersome and a bit of a long shot.

Logging into https://haywardomnilogic.com you can still go to Settings > Nest (Works with Nest) and click Login to Nest, but Nest has been gone for a long time. So this also tells me that Hayward is not putting any effort whatsoever into this interface, I mean it would have a 10 year old 5 minutes to hide a button and tab.

Anyway, any ideas or should I let go of this?

First question. I use a Taylor test kit and Taylor reagents. How critical are the expiration dates that are printed on each bottle for getting accurate test results?

Next situation. I am helping a buddy out with his pool. His pool deck is faux rock which also goes into the pool a little bit (typical rock pool). Lots of algae on the faux rock that is under water. I went over there with my test kit this afternoon. Here are the results:

He estimates it to be a 14,000 gallon pool. This includes the spa.
FC- 4.0
CC- 0
pH- off the charts. I had to add 12 drops to get it to 7.4
TA- 300
CH- 900
CYA- 110

Using the Taylor booklet to calculate how much chemicals to add I came up with this:
2 gallons of 10% chlorine which should get it to 11ppm (to compensate for the 110 CYA)
2 1/2 gallons of 14.50% muriatic acid to get the pH down to 7.4
Does this seem correct?

I told him to add the 2 gallons of chlorine very slowly all at once (starting tomorrow). I asked him to spread the acid out by only adding a half gallon per day (good or bad advice?). I also told him he needed to brush the pool everyday.

Input on any or all the above would be much appreciated. Thanks!

~Mike

Anyone know where you can’t get parts for climate like shaft seals, impellers, fans etc?

I've had this pool 14 years and have never sealed the 12" stone wall around about 1/3 of the pool.

Is that something that's recommended? It tends to drop sandstone "dust" on the coping ledge. I splash it off and reddish sand goes into the pool. Do people normally leave this natural, or do they seal it with something? If so, with what and how often? Probably only about 35 sq.ft.

My water parameters are all within normal limits tested by machine at pool store.

When I get out of the pool I feel like my skin pores are clogged and cant sweat. I have this weird dryish feeling that is really hard to describe (Obviously ...lol)

Anyway, is there a way to "soften" the water in my pool?

Hi -

I replaced my motor on my p6ea6g-207l pool pump ~2 years ago. Yesterday I noticed that it would not start it just hummed and then stopped so I took the capacitor our and it look good. I then took the back cover off and spun the motor freely. After that it has run with no issues and started right up. Today after running all day it shut off but I wanted to keep it running for a while longer as I just cleaned the filter it did the same thing. Yesterday and today I tried to restart after it had been running for several hours. Just hummed for a second and stopped. I had a spare capacitor from a previous pump and swapped it but it did the same. I then spun the motor again and it started right up. Any ideas why it would do this? Could it be some sort of thermal protection that it has been running all day going bad? Any suggestions as this motor is only a few years old.

Thanks

Philip

jeffchap said:

My IC40 quit yesterday and while shopping for a replacement, I found these aftermarket cells that are supposed to be a direct drop-in replacement. They are $200 less, generate 50% more chlorine per day and have a built-in salinity display.

They have good reviews online, but I know those can be made up too. Does anyone here have any experience with one of these? I went ahead and ordered one and it is supposed to arrive Saturday. After I get it up and running I'll come back and post a review.

APX PERFORMANCE P40 Aftermarket Replacement Salt Cell fits Pentair IC40

Discount Salt Pool has the APX PERFORMANCE P40 aftermarket replacement salt cell that fits a Pentair IC-40 cell (520555). Get the best price with this salt cell alternative.

www.discountsaltpool.com

Click to expand...

Hey man I saw on a forum where you bought a Apex aftermarket salt cell. Just wondering if it's still in operation and how you liked it

Just bought a slide and would appreciate any info on the plumbing side of it. I'm gonna have to drill in the concrete deck to put in a stub then dig under the deck to reach the stub and of course go to the pump the other way.

Not sure how to hook into existing piping on the return line? I want to use water from the pump and also have a way to control off and on and water flow to the slide. Also heard I need to maybe install a union joint on slide side so water can drain out and not freeze in winter. We blow out the pipes but of course the one will be going up instead of down in the slide. Attached are a couple pics. Any info would be appreciated.

Well dang. Got on here to research calcium chloride, ended up on this thread, was convinced to use the Snow Joe, product no longer available lol. Now what . Second year with our pool and this is the first time I need to raise CH. Not real sure of the best or (normal) way to go about it.

Hello, the day my pool builder came out, they had bags of white pearl instead of what I requested which is white diamonds. I asked if they made a mistake and brought the wrong finish and they said that white pearl is mixed with other materials to create the white diamonds finish. From my understanding, white pearl is a pebbletec finish and white diamonds is a pebblesheen finish. Does anyone know if the above is true? Thank you!

Weird problem. I clean my filter and skimmer basket, replace everything, and all is normal. A thin layer of water is flowing robustly into the skimmer. Pump is working normally.

Next day I go out, and the skimmer float is above the surface of the water. Pump is still working normally.

What happened?

How much water is flowing out of the pump you ask? I would say 70% of normal. Above 50%. For example if the pump lost prime, flow would slow to a trickle. It's a lot more than that.

Is the skimmer so clogged that it loses water flow. No. Some of the bottom of the skimmer basket is still white--I can see it looking down from the top. It has been 5x more clogged than that and still worked. It's been 10x worse and then has caused the skimmer flow over the top to stop.

Is the filter so clogged that the flow is reduced? When I open it up and rinse the filter, it's dirty, but again it's been 5x as dirty in the past and still the skimmer is working so I don't think so.

The relief valves at the bottom of the skimmer body--which are just sheets of rubber that lie over holes in the floor of the skimmter body--appear to be permanently opened about 2 mm when I examine the skimmer when it's out of the pool. Is so much water flowing through those relief valves that there's not enough flow over the top? Could be. There are 4 pairs of 2 holes. I taped 1 pair closed, and another pair partially closed last night. Same problem.

Maybe so much air is trapped under the rim of the skimmer float that it floats out of the water. Maybe?

Any ideas? I searched the internet and here and it does not appear to be a common problem.

I will be trying to investigate and gather info.

EDIT: tonight wile the skimmer and pump were running I pulled out the skimmer float and basket and put my hand over the drain at the bottom of the skimmer body and it was weak. Also the outflow of the pump was maybe 20-30%. Lower than before (or I was kidding myself before). Also today was our pine pollen bloom so there's yellow pollen over everything and certainly much in the pool. The filter, however, was not clogged with it. Not as much as past years. Maybe the filter capacity is lowered by invisible ie microscopic material. I put in a new filter cartridge just in case.

Hi folks, I'm trying to limp this cell through the summer. T-CELL-15. It's 6 summers old, so I know it's at the end of its life anyway.
At the end of the last summer, I would get daily shutdowns with the "low salt" light flashing. The salt level was fine, I cleaned the cell, etc. It's just getting old.

What I'm wondering, is how the controller knows to shut down the generation due to low salt? I'm assuming it's based on amperage. And if it is, couldn't we just place a resistor/rheostat in parallel to increase amperage and simulate a properly working cell? (note from an electronics point of view, adding a resistor in parallel reduces overall resistance, which will increase current at a given voltage). Has anyone tried something like this?

Or another approach, if I set the up the controller to think it's a smaller cell number (per the chart, below, the smaller ones draw less current), it will expect a lower current, so it shouldn't flag a fail state for a smaller amperage? EDIT: Oh, I just found this thread indicating this is true: Failing T-15 SWG Cell Experiment @JoyfulNoise

• T-3 1.3 - 4.5 Amps
• T-5 1.9 - 5.7 Amps
• T-9 2.3 - 6.7 Amps
• T-15 3.1 - 8.0 Amps

The above chart is from here: From here: Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

If adding a resistor, I assume I'd actually add one in parallel between each of the black/wire pairs - 2 resistors total. Connector pinout in post 2 here:

So I'll try dropping the cell number down to T-5. @JoyfulNoise, did you ever go right down to a T-3, or were the efficiencies just not worth it near the end of T-5?

@southbay
Hi, I know this is an old thread but I'm struggling to find pics/info on the micro Kanai Gray finish. Love the material selection and pool color in your pics. Are you still happy with the micro finish/color? What type of pool coping did you use?

Is it possible to patch pebbletec under water?

Hi everyone!

We have an older vinyl liner pool with a history of issues — specifically, water getting behind the liner. The liner was just removed, and it looks like water was likely entering through the gap between the pool wall and the surrounding concrete decking.

Here’s what we’re planning to do:​

• Cut out the surrounding decking
• Build up the pool walls
• Install new coping and a new liner track
• Convert the deep end to a sport pool — roughly 5 feet deep across the whole pool

To achieve the new depth, the contractor plans to fill the deep end with clean gravel, then cap it with pool krete to form the new bottom.

---

My questions:​

• Are we missing any important steps?
• Should the clean gravel be compacted before pouring the new bottom?
• Should we remove the existing pool bottom (old vermiculite/pool krete) before filling with gravel?
• Any long-term concerns or lessons learned from similar projects?

Appreciate any advice or stories you’re willing to share. Thanks in advance!

Nate or anyone in the know-

I purchased the salt test but I have never used it or opened it yet-can you please give me what I need to know? Will be testing the salt tonight

thanks

Relatively new hot tub owner here. Moved into a new home last July with an existing hot tub. So far it has been going great, I have been using the dichlor/bleach method with great results.

Until recently, I purged my spa again nd got everything dialed in perfect for the spring. But a few weeks in, I went to do my daily check and the water was very cloudy! Long story short I fought it for a couole days adding way more bleach than the calculator suggested. And than it dawned on me, maybe the bleach is much weaker than it says. Am i wrong to assume this bleach was produced WAY BACK in 2023? I just bought it a couple months ago.

I recently upgraded my pool/spa electrical to an Intellicenter load center ips5. Before the upgrade, the spa had an air button to trigger the blower. The blower automatically flipped on following any power outage, so I was happy to wire it straight in to an intellicenter relay. I do miss having easy push-button access to the blower. I was wondering if I could retrofit my air button to an IS4 spa remote? There is 1/2 inch conduit extended about 3/4 inch past the tile, and the coping overhangs about just as far. I know the IS4 needs a 1 inch receiving pipe. What do you think? Would it work, or would it stick out so far it would be a nuisance?

It seems our local Home Depot quit carrying muriatic acid. It doesn't show up on Lowe's site either. Where are you guys buying it? I'm in Austin.

Hi, I am looking for some help on updating my equipment pad plumbing. I will be adding a Hayward 400k heater, 8 deck jets and 2 waterfall lines. Last summer before installing the paver patio, I ran home runs for all the deck jets using 1" pvc and two 2" waterfall lines to feed one 3' or 4' sheer descent and the second feeding two 2' or 3' sheer descents. If i need to add a second pump later on I will but for now I'm planning on staying with just 1 pump. My Hayward Superpump XE 2.25hp is currently feeding 8 returns, when using the water features I can reduce or eliminate flow to the returns. I drew out how to plumb in the heater and water features and want to know if I'm overcomplicating it. I'd like to be able to control the 2 sides of deck jets individually so I have 2 manifolds of 4 each. Each deckjet homerun will have a praher 1" ball valve to adjust the flow so they are all even. If there is a better way to go about this please let me know. I will add some pics to see the current setup, and what I am planning to do. Thank you!

The TF Pro refill we started using about two weeks ago seems to be yielding different, variously smaller drops sizes.

I first noticed it with R-0871, which produced an FC reading more than twice what I had been reading before the switch (no changes in use or chemistry routine), and well above the range suggested by orthotolidine.

I contacted Nate and he acknowledged the issue and sent another R-0871, this one is better but still not producing the fully formed drops I was seeing before the switch.

Several of the other reagent bottles are producing tiny little drops as well. I'm hesitant to act on the results of my testing because I don't know if they are correct.

Wondering if anyone else is seeing something similar, or if I'm over thinking this.