I’ve searched, but I can’t seem to find my exact issue, it seems like most of the time the spring and brass part that screw onto the clamp are the issue, but I can screw them off no problem and I can screw them back on no problem and they hold. This is my first time trying to remove the clamp from the filter housing this year and with the nut off the clamp it’s still locked in position. I’ve tried to wiggle it. I’ve tried to shake the top. I’ve sprayed silicone all around it, I can’t get it to move. Any thoughts? I even turned the pump on briefly with the gauge up top open to see if a little bit of pressure would make it move, it didn’t. Thank you in advance!

I'm a true newbie. Never had a pool before. Late last year we purchased a 16' Coleman pool. We are getting ready to set it up this year. Always heard that the filter they come with are not so good. We order a intex SX2800 sand filter. Wife wanted to go straight to salt so ordered the Intex QS1200 salt water generator. Will be getting the ground set up this weekend to get the pool up and filled. Ordered all my chemicals to get it established chlorine 1st then roll into the salt once the PH is set and the other leaves are good.
So with all that being said.
1. Being the Colman pool with the Intex filter system, will the connections be the same or will I need some adapters?
2. Is it worth to set up a PVC line vs the hose? If so dose anyone have an idea of what I would need to get to make everything work well together?

I just emptied and drained my Polishscapes/Hydrazzo pool. We repolished it to remove some mottling.(3 years old) What is the best way to add in the chemicals for startup being that this is not a new build and the plaster has already cured. Does it matter how fast I add in what is needed and in what order? Also when should I add chlorine/salt.

Thanks!

Looking for ideas on how to prevent my DIY aerator from tipping over while it's running. I stole this picture from another thread, but mine looks identical. How do I keep this thing vertical? It's connected to a sump pump sitting on the floor of the pool. Ideally, I'd like to angle my streams so they shoot more horizontal to cover more surface area. Once I do that, it will be even more unstable. Ideas?

New dude, I just did the same thing.



The winterizing rubber plug got sucked into the pipe nearest the filter pump because this year I didn't take the gizmos off first. The pipe has a 90 degree bend right at the end so I can't see down it. You say a shop vac sucked it out? There was enough pressure to get it out? Any advice?? Help!! Do I leave the gizmos in while trying to shop vac it out?

When we bought this house a few years ago, we knew the pump was older and may need to be replaced at some point.

While it probably hasn't been operating at optimal performance, it's still pushed out enough water through the jets to circulate water through the filter.

This Spring we've had crazy amounts of debris falling from the trees (not sure what they're called but look like little green worms). It has constantly filled my skimmer basket the last month or so and I've had to empty it regularly.

I noticed the other day a big slow down in pressure coming out of the jets. So slow in fact that the water looks almost still, whereas normally the water has movement to it.

I thought it might be that the debris from the trees has clogged the filter so I hired a pool company today to come out and completely clean the filter. That definitely increased the pressure a little bit, but the pool is still much calmer that it normally is with the jets on.

It made me think a jet was clogged but the pool guy seemed to think it was the pump. After cleaning the filter, the psi above the DE filter reads as almost 0 PSI.

As far as I can tell nothing is clogged. Skimmer is clear. Pump basket is clear.

Pump is a Century Centurion, Serial 10421CH. It's a 1.65 HP.

Does this sound like a pump problem or could it be that something else is clogged?

Thanks so much!
Chris

So over the winter I had a large crack show up in my Stonescapes mini pebble finish. They came out last week and cut out a section and patched it, matching the existing finish (of course the color will not match but that is ok). The patched area is pretty small in the grand scheme of things, about 3 feet long and 6" wide. After the patch was done we did a simple pool wash (instead of full blown acid wash) for the pool and then I refilled the pool.

My questions are around startup and pool chemistry. When I originally started up the pool when the pool finish was brand new. I followed the NPC startup procedures and then after that first month, I have maintained my pool according to Pool Math/Trouble Free Pool recommendations for a SWG pool. For a patch so small I am wondering if I should follow the full blown NPC startup procedure or not. So far all I have done is put the TA to about 60 and the pH is down to about 7.6. I haven't added chlorine to the pool nor CYA or calcium hardener. I've read differing opinions on salt during plaster startup so I'm probably not going to use the SWG for the first 30 days so will be maintaining with liquid chlorine during that time.

Note there is almost no plaster dust since the patched area is so small. So concerns around plaster dust with a heater or SWG aren't a concern with this startup.

Questions:
1) NPC startup recommends not using chlorine for 48 hours. I guess I can do that.
2) NPC recommends adjusting calcium levels after the 4th day. I'm at about 125ppm without touching it and NPC recommends not going above 200. Should I truly wait 4 days and then not go very high? Last year I kept calcium at about 250, but want to try higher numbers this year based on some issues I had last year. Was going to try to be between 300 and 350 this year. Will that have any affect on the curing of the new patched curing?
3) NPC also recommends not adjusting CYA until after the 4th day as well. Without CYA, any chlorine I add is going to get eaten up pretty quick. Right now my CYA is way less than 30, possibly near 0. Is there any real reason to wait on adding CYA to the pool?

Any other tips? Just trying to figure out the line between getting my water chemistry completely balanced vs what the plaster needs in this first week and first 30 days, keeping in mind it is only a patch...if that matters.

Hey all, I’ve got a Pentair recessed light in the pool/house we just bought. It had some water in it, but the socket wasn’t bad, no real corrosion. So I bought a new seal, and have tried repeatedly to get the tension ring to fully seal, and no matter what I do, thing never stops leaking. Can anyone assist? What am I missing? It’s not a large leak. Thanks!

Starting the process of opening the pool now it's warming up.

11.6k gallon gunite rectangle pool.

Followed TFP levels and charts, looks like I should get my TA down but have read other threads that say just keep your Ph in check and TA will sort itself out.

Anyways these are my results, what does everyone think?

CYA was added yesterday but I might have overshot/tested too soon...

Last year my solar cover basically disintegrated, and couldn't figure out why, maybe the higher FC? Got a replacement just don't want it to happen again.

Jandy TruClear SWG 8am-4pm 7 days a week at 1750rpm and set to 10% output.

Only other issue I fought last year was constantly rising Ph, but seems that's just how it goes with SWG.

Thanks all!

I am tired of getting different results from Pinch a Penny and Lesley stores along with different recommendations and would like to purchase the best test kit for my 10,500 gallon pool in South Fla. Obviously between the sun and rain - weather plays a significant factor in maintaining proper levels even though we only use the pool in the summer. I have researched test kits and can not decide between these two options: (1) Taylor K2006c (so I have more reagents) plus Taylor-1766 (salt test) and Taylor 9265 stirrer or (2) TF-Pro Salt. Please advise as to which option and why. By the way is the stirrer in TF Prosalt the same as Taylor 9265?

I have a Hayward Swim Pure Plus SWG that indicates the salt level which has been consistent with the store readings so I was also wondering if I still need a kit to test the salt level.

Thanks for your help!

Looking for a TSP alternative. I live up in Frisco (Dallas suburb), where we are packed together.
So I dont have a way to dispose of it without it hurting my neighbors grass (I have turf, thinking of run off), or pouring it out in the street and leaving a clean run off clearly showing I dumped something in the street lol.

I found some articles talking about Simple Green, but those are scented.
Cascade Platinum? OxyClean? Anyone used these?

Bought the Polaris 360 to replace almost 20 year old Polaris 380 - motor died and interior was literally breaking apart. Purchased the 360 since it indicated no booster needed, more efficient cleaning and all wheel drive over the 280.

Fairly quick set up and to say it moved at a snail’s pace might be an overstatement.

After some troubleshooting with their tech, he asks if we were running the dedicated booster? Huh? Why? Instructed us to use and running okay now. It appears that even though the unit has a built in booster, it didn’t generate enuf to power the vac. We have a 1hp Sanddollar filter (pool 16 x 32) 3 inlets, 2 skimmers. The new unit is still slower still than the ancient 380. If not for having the dedicated pump we would have had to immediately return the unit! My hubby hadn’t connected it fearing that it would overpower and blow out it the new vac and it didn’t require it! Can’t understand how a pool of our size wouldn’t function without the separate booster pump. Extremely disappointed so far.
Wondering if I made the wrong choice by not purchasing the 280.

Hope this information is helpful.

I've been suffering with a kreepy krawley robot cleaner for two seasons since my booster pump failed. I've seen posts saying things like "using a booster pump cleaner is like using a rotary phone". After using it during this time I disagree. The kreepy krawley does clean very well and fast, but it's a pain to take the filters out, a pain to clean the filters, a pain not keeping it in the pool, can't hold as much, etc. I guess I'm a rotary guy.

I have a line on an affordable 1 hp booster pump and can't justify the 3/4 hp prices. My question is, what damage would I expect a 1 hp booster to do to the Polaris 280? All connections look to be the same and I see lots of places selling 1 hp booster pumps, but I know Polaris sells the 3/4 hp.

I recently had this equipment installed. I do have the pump connected to the IntelliConnect via RS485. I am wondering how things should be configured in the app.

Currently I have the app configured with two pumps - one is the 'Intelliflo/Pro3 VSF' and the other is 'Pentair VSF (RS485)'. The only way I could see to change the pump's settings was to add the 'Intelliflo/Pro3 VSF' which allows access to 'Advanced Settings'.

In the process of adding/deleting the pump, sometimes the 'Intelliflo/Pro3 VSF' would show 'Controlled by automation' and I could not change any of the pumps programs. Currently it shows the programs and what one is running. When the pump shows 'Controlled by automation', the app doesn't show any running programs for 'Pentair VSF (RS485)' but a program is running.

Does someone know how the app should be configured?

I've got an inground spa/pool. The pump is probably 60 feet from the spa. The air intake is back by the pump and is "screened" with a 1-1/2" PVC cap with about 10 holes drilled into it. I've unscrewed all the eyeballs to try and figure out what's happening to no avail (I just see a little plastic hex looking thing about 8" back from the wall. See photo). I've got the pool/spa drained right now and am currently refilling the pool while I diagnose/ fix this issue. I've already replaced all 4 globrite lights in the pool (WTF? $600 apiece that fail after 4 years...but I digress).

It's been like this for a few years now (they all did work for many years originally), so many changes in filter cleanliness, etc. I've tried different speeds on the pump.

Is it possible that water got into the air line (given that the input is pointed up), and maybe that's restricting the flow? Not sure why that would cause just the one jet to stop though.

One thing I've always noticed yet never understood (even back when all five jets worked fine) is that when the jets are on, if you fully cover one jet with your hand, all the other jets stop shooting air (just water comes out of them).

Had a brand new liner installed and there was a hole/leak from day one that was not covered under the warranty. Contractor patched the hole and said that the patch would last the life of the liner. Is that true? Will this hole/patch cause issues down that road? Should we be refunded something for a compromised liner?

Hey everyone. So I finally got my kit and got my subscription to pool math. I have my numbers in order but I have a minor snag.
My pool manufacturer wants 1ppm fc for the shell. I had it running high like 4s and had some bleaching so I'm trying to get it down. Here's my dilemma: my swg is a saltron reliant 25k that was reprogrammed for a 15k unit, my pool is only a 6k pool. I've noticed that a daily check of Chlorine is showing at 8 hours a day on the lowest setting I'm over producing 1ppm fc. Not running it for a day drops it 1ppm FC. So I'm running at the lowest setting for 4 hours a day until it's being used more will keep it at the ideal level (I'm aimimg for 2 because 1 seems low to me). Now a 6k pool, with a 3/4 hp single stage pump running for only 4 hours a day..... am I turning over the water long enough? I plan on getting another system when this one dies but for now it's what I have. Thanks everyone

I have a new pool, and re-used my 2 year old Intelliflo VSF pump. The electrician installed a manual rotary dial, but it looks like it is only controlling the salt cell. The pump seems to be hooked directly to 240V, not the timer, so I have to use the pump's timer programs. Is there a configuration available in the pump's menu that would allow it to just start up and be controlled by the manual timer, without having to press any buttons on the pump menu?

I am rewiring for electrical service to our pool area, upgrading from 120 volts to 240 volts. I am also intending to add a safety switch disconnect (double pole NEMA type 3R) right by the pump/filter equipment. (The previous 120 volt/single speed pump system had no outside disconnect, did not have a GFI breaker at the panel, etc).

I think that the disconnect cabinet should be bonded along with other equipment and pool-side fixtures, but wanted to check on this issue. It's a bit tricky tracking this information down online. If the safety disconnect doesn't have a specific bonding lug, I should be able to tie in with the grounding terminal on the body - is that common practice?

I have a 7500g salt pool. Current pump is a 1.25 HP SMF-110. Salt Cell is a Pentair-iChlor 30.

How many hours a day should I aim to run my current pump? I live in the south and pool gets hammered full sun.

Second, Im having a hard time wrapping the numbers around if it makes sense to possibly make a change to a VSP and ditch the single speed. For my pool size, what size VSP would I be aiming for? Any input here would be greatly appreciated as Im sure Im overthinking the numbers and run times of a VSP.

Hello All,

New here, just bought a house with a pool. I joined here because I'm looking for some advice from those more knowledgeable then me, because water and electricity do not mix. I'll give a brief background, post some pictures, and describe what I would like to accomplish.


My wife and I moved into a new house two months ago, and noticed the irrigation is woefully inadequate (three circuits, and two are just for the grass in the backyard). As my wife and I are expecting, I wanted to find a quick solution, or at least one that didn’t require me to dig up the whole yard, so doing research, I realized I could just tie into the water and power for the pump and pool auto-fill. Currently the electrical for the pump, timer, GFCI outlet, and pool light are all kind of on a metal brace that is strapped to one of the pump pipes. I don’t think it looks the safest or most sturdy, so I want to mount it to the house wall, so I can also tap into it for the irrigation controller ( https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart...8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 ).


What I want to do, is rather than move the conduits in ground, is attach a junction box to the two (and maintain the thermocraft J-box from that to the light wiring), and run some rigid conduit to the wall, up the wall, and to another box, where the GFCi will be, and off that, a Wifi enabled switch for the light in a box to the immediate left of the GFCI, connected by conduit. The pump timer will be to the left of that as well. The irrigation controller will be to the right of the GFCI, connected by conduit. I’ve attached a rough sketch below as well, and if there are any questions, please let me know, I can clarify.


If you guys have any comments, input, or if you think I’m just plan crazy, please let me know! Thanks in advance for the help and input!

Did chemistry check on 16000 gal. pool yesterday. Ph 8.2, TCL 1.0, TA 110, CYA 70. Added 32 oz muriatic acid, brought ph level down to 7.4, but now the CYA test shows less than 30 ppm using Taylor 2000 test kit. How do I get an accurate CYA test?

Hi all,

I just moved into a house with pool in the UK, and am getting myself educated on pool balance, equipment etc. I have a few questions that I'd appreciate your guidance:

1. I believe I have a Pentair Swimmey pump. It's currently connected to the mains directly with no timer (see attached photo #1). What's the best way to turn off the pump so it's safe to clean strainer basket and operate on the filter?

2. There are two valves that are labelled, skimmer and drain/sup. There is a 3rd one that is not labelled (see middle one in the attached photo #2), what could this be? Thinking it vacuum valve. How can I find out?

3. I'm tring to get my head around all the piping. In the 3rd photo, there are two valves / pipes that I can't figure out. All I know is the one in the right connect to waste pipe.

Really appreciate your help and guidance

Thanks
Marcus

ok - so this has happened before. I'm pretty sure there is a hole in my cover. The pool store opens and closes my pool. I do everything else. they came today to start draining the cover and 4 hours later it's still draining. I'm sure it's draning my pool water as it's soooo low. So my question is: do I stop the pump AND the water? One or the other? maybe stop water but keep pump going? I just don't want to pump all my pool water out or what's left of it, but I need to get the water off the cover. I'm so bummed. I was so hoping for a blue opening this year since I had a huge problem last year too. tried to add a photo but it's saying it's too big, I've never had that issue before...

Good Evening,

I have a saltwater pool with a Hayward saltwater chlorinator. Pool is opened up and the saltwater chlorinator is showing 0 for the salt level but what is odd is that the light that turns green to show the power is on has been turned off. I haven’t cleaned the cell in awhile. I understand this could be it. I also am worried it’s the control board. No idea where to begin. Anyone ever had this happen?

I purchased two Waking LED lights from China that are a direct replacement for Pentair GloBrite. They cost me $90 each plus shipping, and the total for two lights with shipping, sales tax, and a 3% fee for using a credit card on Alibaba was just under $300 ($150 per light). Took less than 2 weeks to ship from China to my house. Note that there is currently an exemption for tariffs for purchases up to $800 that will expire May 2, 2025, so you might need to wait until the tariff exemption is either extended or they bring it back.

They fit directly into the Pentair GloBrite Niche, are 18W LED, and are available with various length cords (15M, 30M, etc.). They will not sync with Pentair lights, so you need to change all of the lights to Waking. I only have two lights, so it was not an issue, but you might if you have a lot of lights. I am very happy with this light. Fix my two broken Pentair LED lights (one not working, one only working in “green” color) for under $300. They are RGB, not RGBW like Pentair, so the white will not be as true as an RGBW light. I typically don’t use white, so I don’t remember what it looked like with the Pentair GloBrite, but the Waking white looked good to me. It also works perfectly with my Pentair automation. I’ll try to update this at a later date if I run into problems, but my Pentair lights were only lasting 2 years (or less), so they can’t be much worse, and they are a lot cheaper.

Here their ulr: Home
You can purchase them on Alibaba.

I just opened my new pool a month ago. I have a DE filter and the pressure keeps rising even after I backwash it. The circulation seems fine now but yesterday I backwashed it because there was almost no circulation. The pressure dropped below 10 yesterday but today it’s about 22. Backwashed again but pressure dropped only slightly

Hi, my name is Josh. I have owned my pool for about 5 years now. It is a free form gunite pool. I have been taking care of it myself since the beginning fumbling around I have somehow managed to keep it fairly good looking. I am here to better learn to maintain my pool.

Pentair Sand Dollar high rate sand filter appears to have small leak from bottom drain plug. It's dripp8ng one drop at a time. Just opened 10 days ago and tbh haven't had system leveled out yet re TC and FC. Salt wTer pool w intellichlor IC 60. My sister was too eager and had pool guy open when water temp too cold for acg to work. As soon as I started getting salt level close, we had days of rain, and sane thing is about to happen again in hr. I'm adding pool shock.now.
I'm concerned about drip fr bottom sand filter

New, never had an above ground pool my self. 16' Coleman pool with Intex filter system. Everything new to start with. Wife wanted Salt water so diving in head first for all this stuff. Out in West Texas so very much needed except all the wind. Thanks for having me here