And a Happy New Year to all.

We have been in Stuart, FL for a year now and have finally decided on a Spa with a pool. Was going to go Owner Build but I don't think I have it in me, physically so, after meeting with about 10-12 different PBs and getting 7-8 quotes, this is what we landed on. I found that if you deviate from the norm, some PBs don't want to work with you or they price it so high the opposite is true.

The quote needs some explanations. "Lucy, you got some 'splaning..." I digress.

The 7'x7' (inside dims) Spa will have 20 Jets. I have a plan so fear not, haha. If I put 12@10GPM Jets on a loop (combination of 3-jet manifolds and single jets, for the back) and then put 8@15GPM single Jets (for calves and feet) on a different loop (both each totalling 120 GPM, which should be totally doable), AND if at the Equip Pad, the loops are connected to a 3-way valve so they can run from the same pump and NOT be active at the same time, so either the back jets are on OR the leg jets are on both never both at the same time. what are the chances that would that work?

Spa will be heated via main pool pump/filter/SWG with 2 returns on a separate loop.

AirPort is a deck mounted Air intake and "Muffler", that can support up to 12 jets without a blower. I may run PVC from them back to the Pad and cap off both ends just in case these don't work and we need to put in a blower, at least I won't have to dig up the all the Decking.

Water depths will be measured from the TOP of the tile to the top of the main drain. So, when I asked him to change to middle of Skimmer, he said rather than change the Contract, he would increase all the depths by 3" go figure?

I don't have any plumbing diagrams yet but in theory, can this Spa setup work with the Jandy 2.7HP VS Pump and 3" PVC both on Suction and Return sides? Pad will be about 35-40 feet from Spa?

thanks
Randy

Why do I see vapor rising from my solar heated pool at night/ in the morning when the relative humidity is 100% ?

Hey guys,

I just bought a house in Evans City Pa.
It came with a very neglegted fiberglass inground pool im hoping to save, so I have a feeling I will be spending some time here.
I just made a post about it and Im hoping for the best.

Just like most problem posts start, I bought a house with an inground fiberglass pool at a Sheriff sale. Obviously, this thing has been neglected for some time but Im looking for advice as I cant get ahold of previous owners.

First, what I know. It’s fiberglass, no cracks can be seen above the water. The water level stays about where it is, it rises when it rains then leaks down to where it is now. I found a gasket kit for the pool light in a fedex package inside, so I’m hoping the light is leaking and drained down far enough to not freeze the pipes.

It seems like they diverted the filter to a makeshift koi pond, which overflowed and now the pool is the koi pond. I plan on removing that.

I know pumps and filter are shot and probably undersized, but obviously don’t want to buy those if the shell itself is a lost cause.

My plan is to clean out all the Crud in the pool first, but I have read enough on here to know draining a fiberglass pool rarely ends well. There is a 4” SDR35 pipe beside the skimmer (Pictured) that I have no clue what its for, Im assuming something with the ground water but I have no clue what to do with it. After its cleaned out Ill fill and find leaks, repair, repeat. Then if all goes well I plan on refinishing and gel-coating.

I have an excavator/dump and would much prefer fixing these leaks than septic systems so chasing frozen/broken lines isn’t an issue.

Is this salvageable? What do I need to know before I waste days getting scum out of this pool? How do I drain to eventually gel-coat safely? And millions of other questions, HELP!

First, know that I have cleaned my pool manually the last ~10 years (Kreepy before that).
Thought I'd give my quick thoughts on the Seauto Crab cordless pool cleaner. Overall for the price I paid it gets a 2 thumbs up. It arrived partially charged. Once charged, it cleaned for 2 hours and 10 minutes. The unit returned to its original spot once cleaning ended. Cleaning the unit was simple and easy. Instruction book was clear. I won't be using the app that only lets you switch between modes: 'all-cover', 'wall-only', and 'floor-only'. 'all-cover' mode is fine with me. Many users reported an app forced update had bricked their cleaner. The manual does state maximum chlorine of 4 ppm. Seems odd. Mine was at 5 this morning, so we shall see. The pool was cleaned as well as a kreepy would have done it. Not perfect, but presentable. The current price on Amazon is $919.99, I bought on Lightning Deal for $399.99. I wouldn't pay $1k for any pool cleaner. End of cleaning cycle, it moved ~5 feet to its starting position before stopping and the status light turning to red. I will post a longer cleaning video tomorrow. If you should have question, please ask.
missed debris:

We have a 23 (lol) year old 200btu gas heater. She still works! I did replace pressure switch last year but that was it.

We switched the pool to SWG 2 years ago. Last year at closing I found chunks of rust in the salt cell which is past the heater. I stuck an inspection camera into the heater to find the elements are thoroughly caked in rust.
I suppose this happened as a consequence of the salt, breakdown of protective coating over time, etc.

Anyways, it has to be changed now and that's not a cheap proposition (5-6k canadian)
our current swimming patterns are infrequent - 2-3 times per week, and I've turned the heater on a few hours in advance of swimming in the past
We don't have a solar cover but I am going to buy one this year

questions:
- we live in Toronto, Canada, and the pool gets decent afternoon sun from about noon onwards. Would you opt for a heat pump or another gas heater (I have heard the gas heaters are less reliable these days, and I do expect the cost of gas to keep going up). for either option, do you have a preferred brand?
- is it a disaster if i keep the pump running through this heater until the new one arrives? would there be detrimental effects of the rust being circulated through the pool water? should I bypass the heater?

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have experience with this device? I'm looking for a simple way to set up and control pump run times and it seems as though this might fit the bill? Is it fairly easy to install? I don't have a heater, spa, waterfall, etc; I just want something to set a run schedule and control it remotely if I need to. The pump is a Jandy variable speed.

Thanks

I’m moving into my new home May 1st.

The home comes with a salt water pool. I’m a total newbie.

We’re in Southwestern Ontario, Canada, and would like to open the pool asap after moving in. I do plan on hiring someone to do the opening.

Should I pay extra to have them put in unstabalized chlorine? It’s something they offer.

I want to know what I should have on hand to prepare myself. I don’t know if the home even has a pool vacuum they’ll leave for me lol

A few years before the pandemic, I had a gunnite pool built with SWG, CO2, Concrete Deck and Auto-Cover safety cover which is hidden away similar to this:
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8d/3a/c8/8d3ac8857b6895ecf78cb7bdf6744546.jpg

The pool had a 5 year warranty. Nearly 4 years into ownership, my tiles started coming off. I have two rows of 3"x3" porcelain tiles. I sent my PB an email and they ignored me. I didn't think much of it then because a few tiles was not a big deal. Today about 30 - 40% of the top row is off or gonna come off soon. The bottom row is all fine - none have fallen off.

Back to my issue: The top row of tiles abuts the aluminum auto-cover rail with grout between them. Above the aluminum rail is the 4" concrete deck. I am 99% sure the aluminum auto-cover rail was screwed to the top of the concrete beam with no flexible material between them. Is this normal installation procedures for really cold-weather installations?

I always have kept my pool balanced. I always keep the water level well below the tiles during the winter. This was not a budge pool my friends!!!! The auto-cover was $10 alone! I follow ALL of the PB rules and all of the rules here. I feel that because the bottom row of tiles are totally fine that any doubts of my water chemistry and possibility of winter ice is out-the-door. They would be falling off too.

I've gotten three estimates including my PB. All over $10k. They all said they would tear out all old tiles, prep and re-tile with brand new tiles, and put silicone between the top tile and aluminum rail above it. I'm skeptical. Silicone, really? I asked if this was going to occur again and they all said 'I hope not'. I feel much more confident now. I asked them all if it was installed correctly and none of them would give me a straight answer.

Was this installed correctly? How should I handle my warranty? I emailed them before it expired with pictures. Only now, they are happy to talk to me about fixing it. I don't know how to approach them politely and with intent that they are responsible for this? Are they responsible?

Looking for suggestions on what would be best to “fill” or repair this area in my decking. I can’t quite tell but looks to be about 6in deep and may track slightly under one of the edges.

Our pool has a spa attached (shared equipment) which we use in the shoulder months. We close our pool late and open early when water temps are around 32-40.

We don’t heat the pool in the shoulder months but are able to isolate the spa and heat it (around 100).

For example - opened the pool last week (water 41) and we’ll use the spa on weekends (cover it and keep water), then mix the water back in the pool for the week.

If using the SWG for the tub (when heated) how can I figure out what percentage to run it at and how long to run it when not using (but not circulating it back into pool)?

I’m trying to figure out, where is the problem.
I can feel strong suction on the intake, weaker suction in the sweeper (Vingly). Pressure on meter shows 15 or so. No leaks. I tried another Vingly, one that works in another pool (my son’s), still same. Tried adjustments, nothing. The sweeper don’t move.
Filters are clean.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you!

Is there a routine on how often the cell should be cleaned or are there visible indicators to check? Or other indicators? I have not cleaned or looked at it since it was installed last June (have had no issues so never crossed my mind to look into it).

Hi all,

Was referred here by a friend, what an amazing community. My pool (20339 gallons) had a few super-unreliable pool guys, the pool turned green, and I decided to maintain it myself. The pool was somewhat neglected for a few months, and while I was cleaning debris out of it, I didn't bother with the chemistry at all (knowing it's wrong).

After reading pool school last week, I fixed my metrics and started SLAM:
1. Brought pH down with Muriatic Acid to ~7.5 (was 8.4 or higher prior)
2. Brought CYA up to 40 (was 0 prior)
3. Brought FC at 16 ("SLAM" level in PoolMath) with liquid chlorine only
4. Replaced my cartridge filters (old ones were not replaced in 3 years, completely fallen apart) and noted the new clean PSI

I've been keeping FC at 16 for 5 days now. Brushing daily. Running my pool robot. I don't have a vaccum.

The water looks A LOT better, but I still have some stains / areas that look green - mostly in the center of the pool.
Brushing the walls/floor of the pool does occassionally bring up a green cloud, so I suppose I'm not done.
But curious how I'm doing so far, and any tips on where to take it from here?

Hello,

My eyes are red from reading so much about pool cleaners. I have used the pressure side cleaner that came with my pool since new and it is on its last leg.

I have a 10,000 gallon pool with a ledge around three sides two steps on the fourth side and then a sun ledge. I have a pool enclosure so there is not much debris in the pool.

I would like to have a cleaner that scrubs the walls and waterline as well as the bottom. I would prefer one that you can leave in the pool for a week at a time. I have the Jandy/AquaLink system and being able to connect to that would be a plus but not necessary.

Any suggestions?

I have a fiberglass jacuzzi which is heated with a gas heater. Where I live, we have months with 20+ days of rain.

My water hardness level is essentially non existent. How important is it to get it up, given that’s it’s a fiberglass jacuzzi and gas heater?

If an increase is needed, where do you typically buy the calcium? I’ve never seen it at the local pool/hottub stores here (Medellin Colombia)

Thanks!

Last time I cleaned the cell (3 months ago) bubbles stopped at about 15 minutes. If been getting check cell light for 6 months, so decided to return it for warranty. So they said return it cleaned, but now it's been bubbling for 30 minutes and still going. I'm using 9% vinegar. They said use 4:1 acid, which this would be about equal to (too strong IMO). Normal? I've already bought a new cell which is working fine, hopefully get a good discount on a second one.

I have a pool with an older Pentair Intelliflo 2 VST pump. Reading through the manual, it seems like I can program the pump with a schedule. In this case, why do I need the mechanical time switch?

I was releasing air to do normal maintenance and it just sort of fell off. I hardly touched it. Maybe this was 12 years in the making. Has anyone tried to get broken stems out somehow?

Hi, I was wondering if anyone here has a solution to stop my hose from kinking up when it exits the pool. I'm sure it's slowing down the discharge rate.

SheriC said:

I am so sorry I didn’t see this sooner! I ended up going in a totally different direction. I ended up switching at the last minute to Tahoe Coast and I absolutely love it! Was going to go with Riviera Coast, switched it to Tahoe. All paperwork was switched. Unfortunately the PB office person forgot to get rid of the old ticket and i came home to the wrong pool color. Didn’t realize until after pool was filled since I work weird hours. PB had the entire pool stripped, replastered, and filled in 1 week With the correct color.
The color changes constantly depending on the time of day, which I love! I do have pics of the Riviera if you would lIke to see them

View attachment 517425View attachment 517426View attachment 517427

Click to expand...

Hi! I know this is an old post you made but I’m currently trying to decide on a Primera stone color and I’m so confused. Are you happy with the Tahoe coast? Do you still have the pictures of the Riviera coast because I was really considering that one. Can I ask what you didn’t like about it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Subject: pH Rose After Muriatic Acid Addition (Confused by the Outcome)


Hi Everyone,


I recently did a drain and refill and have been balancing the chemical myself following TFP protocol. I got FC, CYA and Salt where I want it and I am now working on reducing my TA. I’ve been carefully following the PoolMath calculator to estimate how much muriatic acid to add, lowering pH and TA in stages. However, I’m seeing outcomes that don’t match what the app predicts (especially regarding pH drop), and I’m not sure what’s going on.

Here are the details from yesterday (12:30 PM) sample taken on the deep end, elbow deep:

• FC: 7.5
• pH: 7.83 (confirmed with two calibrated pH meters and a drop test)
• TA: 125
• CYA: approximately 67 (based on drop test)
• Calcium: 350 ppm
• Temp: 66°F
• Salt: 3650 ppm

Following PoolMath’s recommendation, I added 32 oz of 31.45 percent HASA muriatic acid (purchased from Leslie’s) with a target pH of 7.3. I diluted it to about 1.85 percent in softened water and slow-dripped it over two hours directly into agitation created by using an aquarium wave maker (this was mostly out of caution). I’m a bit paranoid about plaster etching and don’t have a strong return jet (due to my in-floor cleaning system). This setup lets me avoid having to brush aggressively right after acid addition and allows me to walk away until it's done.

I got pool gallons size directly from builder and it adds up with how much salt and CYA I have been needing to reach my target.


I didn’t actively aerate using water features (such as spa spillover or fountains), but I do run my pump continuously 24/7. The in-floor system does trigger a spillover when it cycles the spa, and I have a fairly large shallow beach section that creates surface agitation when its zone is active.


This morning at 9:30 AM (less than 24 hours later), I retested and to my surprise, pH had actually risen to 7.87 (instead of dropping to the expected 7.3).
the drop ph test is actually a little darker than the 7.8 mark (see picture).

Pool was built in 2021 and did acid was a few weeks ago if it makes a difference.

I’m scratching my head. The only semi-scientific explanation I can come up with is this:


Even though I used the full acid dose, the slow, diluted addition might have allowed CO₂ to off-gas in real time due to agitation. This may have counteracted the acid’s immediate effect on pH. So the H+ ions still reacted with carbonates (which would explain why my TA dropped), but the pH rebound happened much faster than expected.


The silver lining is that my TA did drop as expected to about 115 (11th drops brings solution from greyish green to light pink and it gets dark pink at 12th drop), so I know the acid wasn’t fake (otherwise I’d be wondering if Leslie’s sold me dog pee instead of muriatic acid).


Any thoughts? Has anyone else seen this kind of pH behavior when using a slow-drip method?

Thank you all!


Full pool specs are in my signature

Hey all, i went to open my pool for the year today and found the pump wont start. I turned the power on to it and set the filter to on at my control panel and the pump just flashes the green light 1 time and then pauses and flashes again. The pump is a Hayward super pump xe 2.25 hp. I saw somewhere that the flashing could be a dc voltage out of range error. Any insight on what i need to check to see if that is my issue. Or anyone had any similar issues would be helpful. Thanks

I ordered a TF test kit and now Shippsy wants proof that it was manufactured in N. America. I e-mailed tftestkits.net for help, but they haven't gotten back to me. I seem to remember dealing w/this problem in the past, but I don't remember how.
Shippsy says

• Certificate of Origin
• An Exporter's Statement of Origin
• Any other documentation that indicates the country of origin of the goods.
• It can also be a web page screenshot showing where the item is made or manufactured.
• A screenshot of the email directly from the manufacturer/vendor stating that they manufactured or produced the item. The screenshot must cover the sender's details, such as the email address, sender's name, timestamp, and date.

is enough. I've been throughout tftestkits.net looking for anything like this, but haven't found anything.

Just moved in coastal Florida, acquired this pool, equipment's in ok-ish shape., currently working on bringing chemistry into TFP recommendations (test kit should be here today!!!)

Looking to convert to a SWG system, and replace the filter at the same time, the filter works, but its weeping, getting brittle, and if im going to do some work, might as well set it up to last.

My questions are:

I dont currently have an equipment pad, just a few pavers (strategically?) placed, how big should i go, was thinking 4x5 feet?

I believe i have a 120 sqft hayward filter, thinking of going for a 200sqft hayward swimclear or jandy of a similar size, or would the 150 be enough for minimal maintenance.

Would like to eventually automate, but dont want to jump on a new pump just yet, this is where where im torn between the tru-clear for SWG, and Pentair for an eventual pump replacement, ive been told the pump and SWG should be from the same manufacturer to make it all work happily together, thoughts?

Also looking at a robot to clean the bottom. pool shop loves the Polaris freedom, hates everything maytronics, where i was considering a dolphin 400, but i suppose that isn't out yet? I haven't found any real reviews comparing the two that seem unsponsored. or should i bail on cordless, and get a corded model? looking for something that can handle waterline cleaning.

My 2 year old daughter decided it would be funny to throw 2 of these rocks (not sure of size/shape) into the skimmer while I was emptying its contents.

I have turned the pump off for now, but I would like to know if I am still able to turn it on and use it?

Also how do I try to get the rocks out?

Hi all, I purchased a house with a pool a couple of years ago and used a pool maintenance company to service it. This year I want to try to do everything myself. I've been browsing through this site and am really enjoying, and I hope that I'll get al the info I need, and won't destroy my pool!
Right now I would appreciate if someone can help me with the following.
My current pump, pentair whisperflo 011514 (1.5 HP) made a very loud noise last year, which got progressively worse during the season. So question number 1) Should I attempt to replace the bearings or just replace the pump? The pump was installed in 2015. 2) If I replace it, from my research it seems I should get the Superflo VST 342002, is this correct? 3) Is there a difference between Superflo VST 342002 and 342001? and lastly 4) please excuse my ignorance over here, but how do I remove the pipe that's connecting the pump to the valve (please see attached picture), do I need to cut it?
Thanks!
Sam

Hi,
I am an American living on the Mediterranean coast, where we have long, hot, dry summers. Our apartment pool and terrace tile has always been grouted with flexible siliconized grout made for pools, with the brands available in Turkey. Our overflow drainage trench (which has been covered with liquid insulation and mesh the past 3 years, tile underneath), has recessed ridges at the top to support the plastic grating. There is L-shaped plastic trim installed on those ridges around the entire perimeter. Each year we do grout repairs before opening the pool, but there always seem to be increasing cracks in the grout line between the plastic trim and the hard border tile. One pool engineer here said that trim is useless; recommended that we remove it, seal the exposed surface with more liquid insulation, and just sit the grating directly on top of the ridge. Another pool engineer said the plastic is fine; just remove the old cement grout and fill it with epoxy grout instead. I have read and been told that epoxy grout has excellent durability between ceramic tiles. However, since the plastic is prone to flexibility, the hard epoxy could crack and separate at the edge. I am having trouble finding information about this precise problem here. I would appreciate any professional advice. Thank you!

Hello Everyone!

I am new to this forums and pools entirely, we just finished our pool build at our home and are excited to get lots of use out of it this year. I am taking on chemicals and maintenance myself as I have been scouring these forums and have learned quite a lot and feel pretty confident that I can manage it easily.

Here are some specs of the pool and there are a few pictures attached:

Pool Size - 18 X 36 with a 7 X 13 Sun Shelf
Spa Size - 7 X 10 with spillover into pool
Water Features - 3 Copper Scuppers opposite Spa
Finish - Stone Scapes Mini Pebble Salt & Pepper
Pump - Jandy eSeries 2.7 Hp Vsp VSSHP270DV2AS
Filer - Jandy CV Cartridge Filter
Heater - Jandy 400K Btu JXiQ Propane
Lights - Jandy Infinite Watercolors Nichless
SWG - Jandy Aqua Pure PLC 1400
Automation System - iAquaLink RS

Great to be here!

Winterized my pool and everything is completely open and all valves are off but water is pouring from skimmer basket. Can someone help me with this?