Resurface in Tampa Bay - Project complete!

Getting ready to sign with a builder for a resurface, retile, and some new equipment. Current plaster delaminating is the main impetus -- there's at least one spot on the bottom that flexes when I step on it. And just within the first six inches under the waterline, there's around 7-8 smaller spots delaminating.

  • 10,000 in-ground gunite sport pool (3 - 6.5 - 3 depth).
  • Full demo of existing plaster.
  • Surface: Joining the PebbleSheen Blue S(m)urf club -- though we are still debating between that and Blue Granite for $900 cheaper.
  • Tile: Luv Frosted 1x1 light blue (FST-11LB) or Luv Seacrest Random Blocks (SRT-BR02). They are respectively bottom-middle and bottom-right on attached picture. Leaning towards the Seacrest.
  • Our filter is currently under the skimmer *in the ground*, and is undersized. Apparently this is a common setup for spas and above ground pools, but has baffled everyone who has seen it here. Will be getting a proper filter.
  • Replacing skimmer.
  • New colored LED lights. We currently have two lights, which is a lot for such a small pool. We might be dropping to one or going with spa-sized lights?
  • Our metal light junction boxes are currently sticking out of the ground next to the pool. Will be relocating those. All I can imagine is kids running around the deck and someone busting their head open on one of those things. I've almost tripped over them myself while mowing.
  • Salt water generator.
  • First month service.

Open to opinions on surface, tile, and lights.

I think the only question I have at this point is that the builder does normally do an acid wash start. Been reading a lot about the startups and it seems like that one is not favored? Is this something I should try to push back on to do a bicarb start instead? Mostly worried about fading after selecting a stand-out color.


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TFP Initial Sign-Up suggestion

Guys..... I just read my 3,000th post from a newcomer asking a question with no signature at the bottom of the page, with a reply from one of you requesting that person to provide one. Why can't we make the signature a mandatory requirement when new people sign up? There is a good link on how to create one, but even better would be a template [pool type=____, Gallons=______, pump=______, etc]. Hope you all have a great day!
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Two weeks with a solar cover

So I've had an old solar cover that I dragged up from my basement going now for two weeks. So far so good. I have a technique to get it on and off without too much fuss. The water temp has remained around 80 which is great and today was a wonderful October pool day. Overnight temps have been in the 60's with some 50's the week before. I do have some questions:

- How do you determine when your solar cover is shot? I can see many of the bubbles turn opaque when the cover is on from water intrusion, probably 1/3 of them. So that's probably not good.
- I'm getting a fair amount of plastic shedding off into the water, enough to be annoying. Is that normal, or is it shot?
- Once a cover is shot, does it make sense to hang on to it to cover the pool during the winter? Keep the pump running and pool "open", just with a solar cover to keep most debris out and reduce chlorine demand.
- Can you walk on these when they are on the pool deck? I've done that once or twice with flip-flops and didn't really hear any popping. The Dang thing blocks access to the patio area when it is off the pool.

Next week looks to be a rainy washout with temps in the 70's. I hope to keep this season going somehow!

Help Picking Tile Grout

Hi All,
I need some help picking my tile grout color please. I am in love with my tile, and wanted a seamless look. The pool builder who is helping us finish (after we fired the original PB) told me to use just plain white because it wouldn't get stained and was easy to keep clean. The tile was installed and grouted last week. I am not happy with the white at all. We are looking at having the tile setter remove the white grout and re-grout the pool. I need color suggestions please!!!! I know that @kimkats is the resident bling queen and I am definitely after some bling here! I am attaching pics of the tile, tile installed without grout, and then the white grout as it is now. Thanks in advance!


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BBQ area Brazilian style

Before I moved to Brazil I lived in Irish countryside of County Roscommon and had a former riding school stable yard as part of my property. Not a lover of horses I rebuilt the tack room as a Brazilian barbeque area. Moving to Brazil and our current home already had a great barbeque built in, I just added a prep area and a nice wooden bar table to complete it. Brazilian barbeque or churrasco is a lot different as hamburgers don't feature in it. One of the the best cuts of meat is picanha, rump cap, charcoal is the fuel and lends flavour to the meat. Linguisa temperada, Herbed sausage, chicken hearts, chicken wings and other cuts of meat make for a great feast as it is an all day thing if done right.
The pictures are of the Irish one I built, some meat and the Brazilian one that came with the house with the wooden bar for the serious stuff!


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Winterizing my AGP Intex

Winterizing your pool….. naturally it is the hot topic of the current season. So here I am jumping on the bandwagon along with everyone else trying to figure out the best approach.
Given my history on winterizing methods, I’d say I still need to figure some things out….see photo below :
2020/2021 winter

That was not a happy pool liner. However, I think I figured out how this happened and admittedly it’s my own darn fault. For no logical reason I opened the outlet valve once the pool froze up and never closed it back up. Ice started to melt, water drained from the valve, lowering the iceberg and pulling the strainer assembly with it…..and officiate destroying the liner in the process.

Suffice to say we got a replacement pool this past summer and I admit that I’m nervous about closing it up for the season.

Here is my current set up for the 18x48 intex.
I haven’t changed or modified anything and the inlet/outlet heights are accurate in this picture as they are in my pool:
Here is what my outlet strainer and Inlet jet setup looks like:

So here is where I am at right now and please correct me where my thought process may be wrong.

I will be using an air pillow and solid cover with a pump to remove accumulated water until the freeze kicks in.

I don’t want to drain my pool any more than I absolutely have to.

I wanted to plug the outlet strainer ports and the inlet jet to prevent draining when I remove the plumbing and pump. However I realize that Living in upstate NY, we get plenty of precipitation and snow:
so I may need to drain slightly below the inlet jet to make room for pool water displacement from the weight of snow build up on the cover. That’s fine with me.

My current debacle now is how to plug the outlet stainers and the inlet jet.
I was looking for threaded caps to replace the strainer cap but those are nowhere to be found I have the little black plastic tophats. I was going to plug the outlet strainers poolside and on the outside using the little black tophats.

Question 1: will the tophat plugs stay in place on the outlets when the pool freezes over and then thaws?

Also looking at the inlet jet assembly setup, I don’t see a way to plug it with the little tophat… am I missing something here?

So let me know, am I on the right track? Am I way off?
I want to do it right this time and not have to buy a 3rd pool next summer.


New pool and just converted to SWG, I think I am on the right track

  • Just subscribed to the Pool Math App - You should see the link
  • Have most of my levels in line with a few exceptions (see below)
  • Set up my SWG at 50% with the pump flowing 24hrs and staying in between 4-6 ppm Free Chlorine
  • Bought a FAS DPD test for chlorine
  • Learned that 40# of salt raises my levels ~275 ppm and testing with a calibrated meter fluctuates between 3000 and 3200
  1. My CYA is about 25-30 all I have is test strips for that. What should I use for more precise tests or are the strips good enough. I don't want to over stabilize
  2. If the pump is on above the flow rate for the SWG it does not matter how fast it goes, right? You don't get more chlorine generated at 2750 RPM than at 1000.
  3. Do I need to SLAM or shock a pool that stays in that 4-6ppm FC range? Maybe just after heavy rain or parties?
  4. If I raise my CYA will I have to adjust the current 50% output of my SWG to hit the right ratio of FC or will it stabilize?
  5. What do I need to do to test Calcium Hardness? The test the PB gave me does not have one. I planned to use up that test kit and then get a K2005.

Intelliconnect Wifi Connectoin

I am working on installing and Intelliconnect and am having an issue with connecting to the network. The IC will find the network, but when I enter the password, it comes back with a "Wrong Password" error.

I'm using an Eero 6 pro wifi network. I've temporarily disabled the 5 ghz band as I thought that may be the issue, but that didn't work either. I appreciate any advice I can get from the group.

Ariel SolarBreeze Review

E228608C-FAA2-4A6E-8AAB-41F910230445.jpegSo mine just arrived via UPS today. Unboxed it and put it on the deck to do a quick inspection.

Build quality looks pretty good. It appears they may have fixed some deficiencies from the NX2. Some quick differences that I have noticed.

It is generally about the same size as the NX2 maybe just a touch taller.
The solar panels are textured. There is an issue with the NX2 panels getting cloudy after a few months. I wonder if this texturing will help prevent that.
The view hole to see the tray status is just a hole now instead of covered with a clear piece of plexiglass. That plexiglass used to cloud up or get condensation on the underside that blocked the view.
The tray now has metal clips to hold it in place. The NX2 had plastic ones that broke fairly easily which caused the tray to slip out a little.

Will put it in the pool tomorrow morning to see how it moves around and to determine battery strength.

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Pool deck question

Hi all...

I may be using the wrong forum to post this question and if so, I do apologize. However, I think a lot of folks on here build decks around their pools so I wanted to get a general opinion of the use of Deck Joist Tape?

Most deck builders have drunk the kool-aid and have jumped on the joist tape bandwagon. However, as a D.I.Y person (although have 25 plus years in construction) ...I am not totally sold on this EXPENSIVE concept yet. So I wanted to reach out to the forum and ask what the general consensus deck joist tape a must or is it another way for the industry to make more money?

If any of you have built decks before, you know the cost can get pretty expensive. The addition of using deck joist tape in recent years just adds to that cost...and in some cases....adds to the cost by an extreme amount. As you tell by my attached picture of my current pool/deck build, this is a very large deck and adding joist tape to the entire deck would add over 1500.00 in costs. o_O

To me, it seems like this is just another way to create more revenue for the industry and squeeze more money out of the homeowner. I say this because, why is joist tape so important now in recent years an industry that has been building LONG LASTING decks for almost 50 years? Why is it all of sudden a crucial part of the sustainability of the deck? To that point, why even have pressure-treated wood, if it is not going to last? I know I sound harsh to this concept, but I am just being skeptical because I am looking at a very large increase to my build. Also, I am very aware of the argument.... "well if your going to spend a lot of money on building a deck, then why not put in added protection to keep it lasting for 20 plus years?" My rebut would be.....I guarantee my deck is going to last 20+ years without the joist tape anyway....and with the high cost of pressure-treated wood...I would BETTER last longer than 20 years...LOL LOL...

Anyway, what are the general thoughts of the group?



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New tub recommendations

Hi all,

I have a jaccuzi j330 spa i forget how old but i bought it used and had it for at least 10 years. I was going to buy a new one next year but with rising prices was thinking about doing it now.

any recommendations on brands?

what about saline hot tubs do they work well ? it would be nice not to deal with chlorine

New motor running hot...

My 2HP 3450 RPM single speed pump motor failed last week. Runs on 220.

Bought a replacement at a nearby national chain pool store (yes, I paid more than I would have elsewhere) and installed it this weekend with new:
  • gaskets
  • impeller
  • diffuser
  • impeller ring
I also bought those parts at the nearby national chain store, and they obliged by installing impeller, etc. for me. Re-installed the motor on Sunday and noticed that the metal case is warm to the touch. Using an RF thermometer, I measured it at 127F, which seems high. It's 90F very near the water intake. It also "smells warm" if that makes sense. Both the impeller and the diffuser seem to be the correct size (for 2hp motor).

First, is this a problem? I worry about accelerated wear and potential burn to the touch.
Second, what might have been done wrong that could result in this problem?
Third, what would you do?

Thanks in advance.

Pool "Professionally" Closed. Why do i feel uneasy....

Hey everyone,

Sadly my pool was closed yesterday :(. The pool company i purchased my pool from provides a complimentary closing for the first year. There were a couple of things they didn't do:
  1. Add antifreeze to return and skimmer line
  2. Remove the pool lights as per manufacturers winterization procedure
  3. left a quarter inch of water at the bottom of the pump under basket
I've reached out to the service department about the lights and am waiting to hear back. They don't add antifreeze since their industrials blower removes the water from the pipes, still for some reason I feel uneasy about this. The last thing i want is for any remaining water to damage my pipes over the frigid winters.

Which leads me to my questions for the experts :)
  1. Should I add some antifreeze to the return and skimmer lines, for my piece of mind / added insurance?
  2. Is it possible to add antifreeze now that they have effectively closed the pool?
  3. They put a Gizzmo in the skimmer however should I pour antifreeze around it?
For reference my pump and pool equipment is about 5 feet above pool level and 10 ft from pool skimmer.

Thanks in advance.

Best way to add polyquat to the pool at closing

When adding polyquat to your pool at closing, can you just add it in front of a return without brushing afterwards like you do with liquid chlorine? If so, do I add the whole bottle in front of the deep end return or do I need to add some in front of the shallow end return too? A pool service is closing our pool next week sometime but I would like to go ahead and clean up the pool and put the mesh cover on now to keep leaves out of the pool until closing day. If it is okay to just add the polyquat in front of a return without brushing, I will pull back the cover and add it in front of a return the day before closing and run the pump all day to mix it in real good. If brushing is needed after polyquat is added to the pool, I guess I will go ahead and add it now before I put the cover on, even though the pool won’t be winterized until next week sometime. Water temperature is above 60 degrees so I don’t feel comfortable closing without polyquat since it has worked well in the past.

Featured Jandy iAqualink - System Will Not Turn Off Filter with Schedule

Hi everyone -

My pool has only been open for about 45 days. I have an Intelliflo VSP connected to an iAqualink system. I also have an iChlor 30 SWG. Randomly, I've been noticing an issue and cannot figure out for the life of me what to do. I called Aqualink today and they did a memory reset on my system but the issue persists. Here's my issue.

I have a programmed schedule for the VSP. It uses various speeds throughout the day to run and there are gaps when the pump does not run at all. If I turn the pump on (as in, it's visibly clicked on via the app or weblink interface), the system will follow my programmed schedule. It will increase speed when I want and decrease speed when I don't. What it will NOT do - is shut off. It sits off for most of the night and various parts of the day but it will not shut itself off.

If I turn the pump OFF via the same app/interface, it follows my schedule perfectly. Turns off when it should, increases/decreases speed when I want, etc. The issue with the pump being "off" is that my SWG never turns on. The only way the SWG will function is if I actually turn the pump on. However, I then have the issue of it never shutting off regardless of how I program it.

The aqualink guy on the phone did a test with me where he set a program for the system to turn on and turn off in 3 min and we watched it happen. SWG worked with filter on, but pump never shut itself off, and with filter off, SWG never turned on but the system turn off/on when it should have.

Anyone come across this before? I might try to call the "pro" version of Aqualink but I'm at a total loss.

Any help is very appreciated. My programmed schedule is attached if that helps.



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Pentair Light Sync Issue with Intelibrite and Globrite lights

I just finished having my pool built. The builder put a large intelibrite light in the deep end, and a smaller one in the spa. These two lights sync perfectly. There is a 3rd globrite light in the wet deck. Whenever I put the lights into some sort of color mode, the globrite light lags the others by a second or two. I contacted the pool builder who has had the light replaced twice. I'm about to let him know that the light they replaced today is still having the same issue. I believe the lights are on the same circuit. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

Sand filter for new pool?

Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum and soon to be new to pool ownership - my liner pool is going in next summer. We are currently in the finalization stage for all the pool components, and I'm struggling with what type of filter to go with. I've been told to go with sand because it's so easy to use, and it will filter great as long as you keep your water chemistry good. The pool company recommends DE because it filters the smallest particles and keeps the water the clearest, but they will put in whatever I want. I've researched filters extensively on this forum, so I'm aware of the basic differences and the ways people try to get better filtering from sand (add DE to the skimmer, use different media, cover the skimmer baskets with socks, etc), and I'm comfortable using chemistry and SLAM to take care of algae and the such while letting my filter take care of dirt and debris, but I have no actual experience at this point.

My pool will have a heavy "kid" load (lots of sunscreen, oils, dirty bodies, etc) so my questions are as follows:
1. Can sand be made to filter out the small oil particles from the sunscreen, body oil, etc., or will those just keep circulating and collecting in my pool with a sand filter?
2. Can any of the alternate methods of improving the filtering ability of the sand (add DE, use zeo, glass, etc) really get the clean clear water that a DE filter can? What is recommended to get the best filtering from sand?
3. If I'm going to all these lengths to make a sand filter do the work of a DE filter, am I better off just going with a DE filter and dealing with the maintenance?

My liner pool is 20x44 and around 27,000 gallons with a VSP. It's in a wide open yard without any trees really close to it (not much shade), but lots of trees/brush/woods in the farther out surrounding area.
The sand filter offered is Pentair Tagelus 100D. The DE filter is Pentair FNS.
I live in the midwest, so pool season is basically May - September (on a good year). The pool has an autocover that will be on it any time people aren't in it, but the pool will be used daily in the summer with a high people load many of those days.

If any more information is needed, please let me know. I'm just looking either for confirmation that sand can/will filter all the small nasties from dirty kids out of the water (and the best method for doing it), or that my situation dictates using DE and dealing with a higher maintenance level. Or a different option?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Final stages completed

As a complete beginner to owning a pool, our pool got it's final parts fitted today.
I wanted a 7M x 3.5M pool, my wife did not want to give up any of her garden so guess what size we ended up with, 6M x 2.5M!
OK, not huge but sufficient to cool off from the Brazilian heat and easier to maintain.
We contacted a few companies here in Santa Catarina and decided on IGUI for a supplier after checking up on previous installations by them. We gave them the contract to install the pool and hired a local contractor for the other works, the electrics and drainage work I did my self. The excavation and install went without a hitch but a change in weather hampered the surrounding construction. A break in the weather allowed it to progress and work proceeded reasonably well. Concreting, retaining walls and tiling done I was left with the additional work that required a pathway and the design of a suitable cascade as the ones I looked at were either crappy looking fibre glass or inox piping, neither of which I liked.
I opted for designing a cascade made from granite based on a video I saw on YouTube.
Cleaning the pool to a standard acceptable and balancing the chemistry wasn't a hardship as we opted for a non chlorine system from IGUI negating the use of chlorine and associated chemistry. The pool maintains a pH value of 7.6 and filtration is done with a fibre system instead of sand with filter bags than can be thrown in the washer.
Hopefully the pool will give us a lot of pleasure and I am open to comments in regards to the pictorial history of the build in the media section and my commentary here.


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Hot tub with with 400 ppm CH

I'm on day 5 with my new 400g hot tub. The water where I live has 400 ppm CH. From what I've read, with a high CH I should keep my TA around 50 and my PH low around 7.2 to prevent scaling on the heater.

Here are my current levels:
Cl - 2
TA - 70
CH- 400
Borates - 50
CYA - 30
PH 7.8

My water is crystal clear right now but it gets pretty foamy when the jets are on high. I assume this is due to leftover detergents on bathing suits and hair. Is there anyway to combat this foam?
I'm using MA to get my TA and PH down. Is there anything else I should be doing?


Single Speed Pump finally died. Went with a Hayward TRI-Star VS 950. Anyone run theirs 24/7?

I’m interested in playing around with Affinity Laws, (because science), and running my pump at 1000 RPM/76 watts. 24/7. I have a Jandy System 3 filter and it’s at around 5 psi. I don’t have any features other than a spa waterfall that I don’t really care about unless I want it on, no chlorinator, heater, etc. My calculated turnover rate at this speed/time is about 1.3.

Anyone have any experience with running their pump in this manner? Anything to look for in particular?

I figure I’ll run like this for a week or two and depending on my numbers adjust accordingly. Pool looked crystal clear this morning. I live in the hot part of SoCal, so I’m guessing as summer rolls around my chemistry will change significantly, but for now I’d like to play around with this low power setting.
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Compressor for Closing Pool

image.jpgSo I’ve gotten accustomed to opening my pool by myself for two seasons now. However , I would like to start closing it myself. The pool store charges almost $200 to close my pool and I don’t know if I want to go pay that right now. The pool store uses a cyclone Compressor.

Attached you’ll see my pool equipments. When the pool store comes over to close my pool, they put the compressor plug where the gauge is and blow out my lines.

I just need to figure out what type of compressor is use for my pool. Not sure.