Hello, I thought I would post this here for any DIYers that are trying to connect an older Hayward Control system (Mine was Aqua Plus) that has only 2 cables for the heater relay to a Hayward HP31005T Round Heat/Cool Heat Pump. The diagrams in the manual are very poor and my 5 yr old could probably do better. Hayward support is quite bad and even asked me to connect to the wrong connectors, that is if you can get them to respond. They initially ask me to go to a pool retailer to ask my questions.... thats like me calling the manufacturer for my laptop and they saying go talk to best buy.

I have the 3 pictures attached here and marked. Need to take the blue jumper cable out and put in your relay cable in there. It is really that simple. If you do have any questions feel free to message me.

Started up the heater this spring and it worked like normal. Did a back wash and when It fired back on went to service system right away.
Red light on back of board was on PS. Ordered a replacement one on amazon and put it in with same result. tried adjusting the screw but no changes
checked the wiring and all good. Any other things I could check. The amazon part was the correct item but was only 20 dollars. How do you short it out with a wire?

Should I try a different PS switch?

I opened my pool about a month ago and have been in the SLAM process for about 2 weeks at this point. There was a large amount of leaves that had accumulated at the bottom of the pool but I have netted almost all of them now. The water went from dark green, very cloudy and could not see the bottom at the beginning of SLAM to a medium-light green, cloudy, but can see the bottom for the most part. While it was progressing early on, I feel like I've hit a wall where I can't get the water to go from green to blue. The filter seems to operating at its regular PSI level and I backwash once it's about 25% higher than the normal reading.

After some initial tests after opening, I added baking soda to increase alkalinity to 50 and since then have been adding liquid chlorine every day to keep my chlorine at or above the SLAM level. Should I just continue to execute the process and keep at it or am I missing something?

FC - 20
CC - I did not test but since the water is cloudy I figure it is not 0
TA - 50
pH - 7.2
CYA - 40

Hello everyone,

Last year I bought a house with a fiberglass pool in pretty bad shape, it is chipped, stained, has bubbles, and the gelcoat has failed (comes out when rubbing and the water gets very milky when heavily used).

I had thought about having it refinished, the usual sanding, reapply fiberglass and gelcoat. However the professionals in my area have advised against it saying it's pretty hard and the result can be a bit hit or miss.

Instead they recommend tiling the whole pool, but I have barely been able to find any examples of tiling a fiberglass pool other than just the waterline. So I wanted to know if anyone here has had experience with this procedure or thinks it is an appropriate solution.

My other concern is that water in my area is extremely soft, as in CH of 50, so I'm worried that maintaining the 250 or 350 minimum CH recommended level for tile might be a nightmare.

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys. I’m a fairly new pool owner with a roughly 30-year-old, fiberglass inground pool that I sort of inherited. I was initially pool illiterate, but I’m slowly moving in the right direction.

The fiberglass definitely shows its age. There’s a lot of stains, some small cracks on the outer lip, and the apparently somewhat common bubbling that you see on the walls. I was able to get the pool cleaned up fairly well and I added a Hayward AquaRite 900 SWG.

I’m still learning and working on getting everything balanced, so please bear with me. A lot of things are out of whack. TA is WAY HIGH…like 270 high. CH is almost non-existent at 30. I think I understand what I need to do to get these heading in the right direction, but I need help identifying something…

There’s a lot of milky white (some dingy) crusty “stuff” on the fiberglass in a lot of places. Looks like scaling. It scrapes off fairly easily with just light to medium pressure from a finger nail. I’m posting some pictures. Question is…what is it?

Initially when I saw it, I thought calcium scaling, but then I thought that seems unlikely since the CH is crazy low and calcium scaling is usually hard to remove or so I have been told.

So, what is it?

I've already searched through the forum and found similar issues but nothing quite the same as mine. I'm hoping for some help diagnosing an issue with my Acquarite control pad.

I've just opened my pool today and when switching the SWG to auto, there is a click noise, following by another click noise about 5 seconds later. After the second click, the power and generating green lights turn off. At that point there are no lights on at all. The displays always shows 3000.

I took a picture of the board and wiring.
Any idea whats happening? Is the control pad, or the cell? Could the cold water have anything to do with this?

Hi friends,

I’ve got my trusty TF-Pro test kit, ever since, my chlorine and CYA levels have been perfect. Tested my total alkalinity tonight and it came back at 240… whoa. So, I tested my pH to verify but realized it’s not a very accurate test and is subject to interpretation. It also maxes out at 8.2. Two questions:

1) within this test kit is there a more accurate test for pH?
2) what on earth do I do about a TA at 240?

I've got an older Aqua Trol system. I used it fine last season. This year when I power it on, I'm getting a power light and the No Flow light.
This is the Return Jet (RJ) model, so it isn't supposed to have a flow sensor, so I'm not sure what would send the no flow signal anyway.
For what it's worth, the flow is definitely good.
I read some threads indicating the model might not be set right. It's currently set to AL-0. The threads I saw mentioned that it should be AL-7 for return jet models, but my settings only go to AL-5 and circle back around.
The software version is r 1.45.

Does the cell itself have a built-in flow sensor that could be not working, or is this a problem with the control board?

Hi!

We gave a 1960s gunite pool that we just had replastered. We also replaced the coping and tile. Its looking great.

This said I read that pools are supposed to have an expansion joint between the coping and the deck and ours only has grout. It never had the joint, not before the remodel and not now.

Long story theres been a vertical crack that keeps coming back for decades. It’s been fixed several times to include staples. The crack always starts at the deck slab and then the tile and downward. This time around we decided to dig the soil at that spot and check for roots and in doing so we found that the deck slab has a huge 1” crack really. So it looks like the weak point is there.

Could the reason for the pool crack be the lack of expansion gap? We didnt know that was necessary and have never been told.

How do we ho about creating the joint? We just remove the grout?

Thanks,
Andie

I'm not sure if this is the correct thread but the title sure hits it...

for the past 3 years I end the winter with 60 parts per million to cya

I use the trouble-free pool method for opening and closing and everything else straight bleach. nothing else.

yet every spring my cya is back to nearly zero....

I've tried reviewing all the threads but has there been any update on this phenomena over the years?

Our fiberglass shell was set and backfilled earlier this week. Coping should be done next week and electric hopefully the week after. The water is already green from pollen. Anyone think I should shock it and throw a submersible pump in there to move the water around and try to keep it a bit more clean? Or should I just wait until we’re done and let the filter clean it out at the end?

Just completed pool rennovation. Plaster (Diamond Brite Watercolors) was done on April 22nd and fill completed April 25th. As part of contract, builder has been managing chemistry up until today. Here are my current readings using my TF-100:

Temp = 72
Ph = 7.6 (>7.5 but not as dark as 7.8)
FC = 3.0
CC = 0.5
TA = 140
CA = 200

Everything was going fine until I woke up this morning to cloudy water.Looking back at builder notes it appears that 15 lbs of calcium was added on 5/7 and then again on 5/9. Didn't notice any issues after 5/7. If it makes any difference (not sure it does) we've had some rain the past two days. A few questions:

1. I presume the cloudiness is due to the rapid increase in calcium, vs gradually adding. How long should this take to subside - 1 day, 2 days? Seems to be mixed thoughts looking through other threads.

2. I need to get some stabilizer in as the chlorine just will burn off. Should I wait until the cloudiness clears?

3.With CC of 0.5, will regular chlorine dosing take care of that with time or do I need to bring up to shock level? I really would rather not increase chorline to shock level given the plaster is so new (recall reading somewhere high levels of chlorine not good in the first month or two).

I recently test a new pool which had the following readings:
FC 15
pH 7.2
Alk 80
Cal hard 400
Cya 300
Temp 85

Pool math is showing 0.00, levels look good but when I bring Alk up 10 it goes to -1.24. This water obviously needs work and draining but why would it show 0, looks good?

Hey all. After opening this year I see that I need new o rings for both my pump and heater. Is there a good place to get these? Pentair intelliflo and mastertemp 250.

Fam is trying to purchase a shore house, they replaced the liner, last week, pool is half full and green. the setup doesn't have a timer, does have a heater, is not SWG and does not have an automatic chlorinator.

Pretty much would need to install a timer, and a SWG. I like the pure line , pretty sure I need the 40k gallon as my guesstimate is pool is about 20-25k gallons
Pureline Pool Salt System 40,000 Gallons, Chlorine Generator, Control Panel & Salt Cell - Model PL7700 - INYOPools.com

and some sort of timer setup. im more so just venting... lots of items to be remedied before closing from inspection

Hi Folks,

I am at the tail end of my Omni VS install and I am now ready to deploy the Smart Relay to control my pool light which sits behind an Intermatic 300 Watt Light Transformer.

In the attached pictures, the right side of the Intermatic is heading to the pool light. The left side has both the 240 power supply and a physical on/off switch tied in with each other. I would like to take the physical switch out of the equation and replace it with the Smart Relay. The conduit closest to the camera on the left goes to the on/off switche. The conduit in the back, farthest from the camera is the power supply.

I am also including the link to the instructions and wiirng diagram of the smart relay.

Any advice you good folks can provide on how to wire the Smart relay properly to the transformer would be geratly apprecited. If I need another part or if I need to replace the transformer completely, please feel free to suggest the specifics. That said, if I can make it work with just the transformer and Smart Relay, I would prefer it.

Thank you all very much in advance!

Hi all, have a little issue looking for some input on. Just opened pool and got it running. Noticed I had next to no water flow out of returns and high pressure. Took my DE filter apart and cleaned grids. That did the trick however now I notice in the skimmer closest to my pump it is actually pulling so much water that it takes air in. Whirl pool effect in that skimmer, its like the water leaves faster than it comes in. I also notice I have one of my pavers collapsed behind skimmer. Thoughts? I could close the damper down in the bottom of the skimmer to limit the suction I guess but what is the real cause? Could I have skimmer door issue? What else can I use to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance for all your suggestions!

Hi Everyone,
We moved into a house here last October. I've been working on various projects and now the pool is getting some attention... The chlorine feeder is leaking and I decided to replace it with a salt cell with the omnilogic control that I previously upgraded. The heater was replaced right before we moved in and the polaris pump we replaced after the other one was leaking...

Anyway, I have the cell here but I'm seeing that we're going to need to make adjustments to get the cell to fit into the area where the feeder currently lives. I never like anything to be too simple so looking at all of this has me wondering if we should try to reconfigure the plumbing in a slightly more efficient manner. This is where I'm looking for input.

Another consideration I have is that we have a heat pump that we had with our old pool (a Fibropool F120). I know it's a not rated for a pool quite as large as ours but it has a cooling function and I had thought that it might suffice to keep the temp in place with the gas heater backup. First question -- is this a worthless endeavor; second question -- how would we plumb it (i think it could be mounted above the gas heater but we're tight on space)?

Thanks in advance.

Hi you all. The suction fitting of my Pentair acid canister was broken at the plastic fitting where the tube from the acid pump connected to (see attached pictures).
I tried to unscrew both suction and vent fittings but weren’t able to. Seems like they were glued/stuck on the canister.
What’s options do I have?
Can I repair/modify the suction fitting with Amazon/Homedepot part?
Unless I am able to remove the suction fitting, buy a new fitting would not help. And buy a new canister is too expensive unless I have no other option.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Wayne

I lowered my pH to 7.0 in order to lower TA in preparation for adding borates, but it is refusing to come back up into range. It's been stuck at 7.2 for several days. I suspect this cheesy fountain I bought on Amazon is just not cutting it. How best to get this aeration going?

Hi everyone! First of all - thank you for all information available in wiki and other places and thanks to all who help others in this pool journey. This forum helped me a lot with how to properly manage my pool using liquid chlorine, now it's time to convert it to SWG.

I bought CircuPool® RJ-60 PLUS and have several questions about installing it properly. Main question is where to install the cell and the flow switch. In all options I'm planning to add a dedicated breaker for the SWG and connect it to the pump breaker. In this case SWG will be working only if pump breaker is on.
1. Install both after the heater but before all outlet valves (IMG_2415).
pros:
- no need to think about which outlet valves are on (swg will generate chlorine when pump is on unless swg breaker is off);
cons:
- in case there is something wrong with valves (all closed) - risk to have high pressure on cell;
- if we need to use just spa - need to manually switch off the swg breaker to avoid overchlorination;
2. Install both on return jets outlet pipe (IMG_2422).
pros:
- no risk if all outlet valves closed by mistake (since it's installed after all valves);
- no risk to overchlorinate spa in case forget to turn off the swg;
cons:
- need to manually switch off the swg breaker (rely on flow switch is a bad idea as I understand);
3. Install the cell before valves and flow switch after all valves on return jets pipe.
pros:
- no need to manually control the swg breaker when in spa mode (it will be controlled by flow switch - still not very safe);
cons:
- all valves closed risk;

I see option 2 as more preferable with manual control of swg breaker in spa mode.

Other questions:
1. I have automatic chlorinator. Do I need to install SWG only after it? Or it’s completely fine to install it before? I'm not sure if it adds significant pressure. In case of installing after all valves - it doesn't matter since the cell will be after it.
2. In future I’m planning to install VSP. In the documentation they say that I need to "invert the cell in order" (screenshot attached). What does it mean? Install the flow switch before the cell? Or rotate the cell and the switch tops to 90 degree? Is it better to "invert" the cell now?
3. Is it possible to install something that will release water if there is an excessive pressure after the heater in case all valves accidentally closed (if options 1 and 3)?
4. 6-12” straight pipe before the flow switch means around the switch or only before? Can I install it right before a valve (after the cell)?

Thank you!!!

Greetings
Newbie here

My pool was opened yesterday and my heater in the subject line is not working.
The pool tech said we needed the following:
Bezel& keypad
Display Board
Intergrated Control board.
Total cost 965


The prior owner had the water pressure switch replaced in 2019


Or a new heater at 3,050 installed.

Since the heater is 10 years old I was leaning towards a new heater.

I am assuming my thought to buy a new heater is the correct move here.

Thx

Some idiot(s) (and we think we know who did it) egged our garage and my son's truck last night. We are upset and my wife very much so and it's time that we use surveillance cameras around the house.

We have a Ring doorbell and I was planning on getting for the front of our house 2 wired Ring floodlight cameras over the garage and a solar Ring spotlight cam toward the side of the house. So far I haven't explored the backyard, we keep the gate locked but it's only a short chain link fence.

My question is does anyone have these and are they worth it?

Thanks!

Hi,

I edited to reduce words.
Really quite happy that after 19 years I have my first panel leak.

Anyway - preferred repair method and contingency plans:
1. I saw the video on the Fafco repair kit and trimming out part of the diameter of individual tube and shoving plugs (1-2) at top and at bottom of channel. THAT is a lot of time on the roof with some risk of cutting adjacent tubes. Amazon Clinic

2. Use a Rainbird 1/4" connector after fully cutting the tube/channel and using this as a stent - seems simple, unless the tube pliability is lost due to age, or the connection just loosens with time (no reference to silicone sealer in this application)
3. If #2 fails though - I now have a cut tube -- would I use a 1/4 inch nylon bolt (head cut off) with added silicone caulk, put into each cut end? Or cut it all out and do these screws at the header and footer?
4. Screwing a stainless steel screw with silicone into the PCV header and footer?
5. FYI Fafco is 12 yr warranty per the installation company (saw 30 yrs in a thread here somewhere)
6. FYI saw a complaint about $65 for a service call for a leak - here in Cal, today, it is $206

I have an intellicenter I5p single body w/SCG. It was installed in 2020 and has worked well the past 3 years, but after trying to start the pool up after the winter, the display is blank with no signs of life.
My current level of diagnosis was to confirm I’m getting power to the board. I measured the voltage on the i5P Main Control Board (P/N 522079) and I’m getting 28vac reading on the terminals that are supposed to be 24vac, and I’m getting 20vac on the terminals that are supposed to be 18vac.
I’ve also confirmed I cannot connect to it with my phone with the blank screen.
Looking for advice on how to find the problem and fix it.
I didn’t see anything that looked alarming to me. See photo attached

I was a slow/late convert to SWG. Wish I had done it sooner now!
In year #6, out of the blue, my Circupool RJ-60+ gave the "Cell Not Match" error. Prior to that, the only issue had been that the buttons on the control board became stubborn. When the cell error message came up, none of the control board buttons worked at all.

Calling Discount Salt Pool, their courteous and knowledgeable rep said that the two issues were unrelated. I ordered a replacement touch pad and they sent a PCB adapter. There was no charge for the adapter. Separately, I replaced the cooling fan as I had heard noises over the past few years coming from the control box. After installation, everything is back on-line & functioning properly.

I remove my salt cell every winter and clean it. There are no signs of wear on the plates. I asked the rep if I should bring my control box in for the winter, too, and he didn't think it was necessary. I must say that the insides of the control box appeared to be quality parts and workmanship.

I'm a satisfied Circupool customer. If these fixes hadn't worked, I'd buy another RJ-60+ without hesitation.

Hi all,

The home I just moved into has a ~17,000 gal pool. The pump is a single-speed Sta-Rite Dura-Glas P2RA5E-124L with Century HSQ125 motor (I think it is 230V 1-phase). I'm guessing the pump is around 2 ft above the pool water surface, and the pump is located around 6 ft from the corner of the pool. There is a Hayward C9002 cartridge filter, 1.5" plumbing with three suction lines (L to R in photo): pool drain, skimmer, and vacuum. And no, the pump and piping are not level or plumb. The pump is tilted as much as 5 degrees from horizontal. The suction pipes are not vertical, so I'm guessing the whole mess just settled over the years and it is what it is unless I can fix it with 11-degree fittings or something. The vacuum is a Hayward Navigator Pro W3925ADC. The previous owner had a solar pool heater on the roof, but removed it when they changed shingles. Water is piped from the pump outlet to the filter, then from the filter it goes through the old heater pipes to the left, up to the diverter valve, then back to the right and into the chlorinator before I assume it goes underground and on to the pool returns. There are 5 outlets around the perimeter of the pool. The previous owner was running the pump 3 hours a day, which I suspect is not even close to sufficient and was probably done to save money with the single-speed pump. I would like to replace the pump with a VS model, and was thinking about buying one of the Calimar options since they are supposed to be the same as the B&D (and others) but for much lower cost. I'd still consider the B&D if better or if 2hp is the "right" size for me to use. I was going to just go for the 3hp VS pump, but I read some things about 1.5" pipes that worried me a bit. I would have thought I could just run the pump at lower speeds and then schedule it to run for 2 hours at whatever max speed is needed to equal the current flow rate, then 10 hours at a mid speed and 12 hours at low to keep water circulating 24 hours a day.

I plan to do the work myself, and am also planning to install a salt chlorine generator, possibly a CircuPool Core-35 or Core-45. I'm also planning to remove all of the 2" plumbing that used to go to the solar heaters since it's just creating unnecessary headloss at the moment and gives me more potential locations for leaks in the future. I will also remove the pin timer for the existing pool pump since the VS pumps have their own control panels with 4 speed settings that I can program.

I would really appreciate any recommendations/explanations. Thanks!

As posted in a previous thread at the end of last season I was battling white water mold as a result of high cya/chlorine issues. My scheduled opening is early May. Took a look at things today. The entire pool is COVERED with white mold. I did test chlorine, ph and cya today .
Fc basically zero mayyyybe 0.5
Ph 7
Cya 50

Is there anything I can or should prior to opening to try to get a handle on this ?
Thanks in advance

Hi All, recently bought this tub and it has shell issues and wondering if it's anything I can have repaired, has anyone ever seen issues like this, the clear coat has gone hazy in places and there are also little spots of bubbling. When you rub your hands on it you can't feel any obvious clear coat issues and it's not flaking or anything, I paid $2500 for it so I really don't mind as it's only 4 years old but just wondering if there is a solution...maybe the previous owner over chlorinated it for a long time to keep it from turning.

Has anyone ever re clear coated a tub before?

Thank you

The Recommended Pool Chemicals topic in Pool Care Basics states:

Free Chlorine (FC)
... TFP recommends using liquid chlorine or a SWG. These three options ...

Is there a third option?