Where is my return Line? I want to blow out the lines to winterize

[canadianpoolz]

Hello ,

I am having trouble finding out where I should disconnect to blow out my return lines. Please any help would be appreciated. The pool has a heater as well. It has a backwash hose attached to it as well, it is non detachable. The skimmer and drain valves is the one directly attached to the pump. The other valves is to control the jets of the pool and stares (the one next to the AC unit)

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP!

The other valves is to control the jets of the pool and stares (the one next to the AC unit)

That is the valve going back to the pool (return). One option is to remove that handle (8 screws) to gain access to the plumbing to blow air through there for the jets and stairs. We can't see your heater though or how it's connected. Maybe post more pics so we can see everything from different angles?

 

[canadianpoolz]

Welcome to TFP!


That is the valve going back to the pool (return). One option is to remove that handle (8 screws) to gain access to the plumbing to blow air through there for the jets and stairs. We can't see your heater though or how it's connected. Maybe post more pics so we can see everything from different angles?

Hi , I just added more photos

 

[Texas Splash]

Also looks like you could unscrew the union fitting at the filter (outlet) and/or heater and push air from there as well.

 

[Texas Splash]

What device are you using to push the air? ShopVaa, compressor, Cyclone?

 

[canadianpoolz]

What device are you using to push the air? ShopVaa, compressor, Cyclone?

I have a shop vac. Is there a way to undo one of the pipes to blow out the returns?

This my plan:

- open the Hayward pump and put shotvac in:

First use shop vac and blow out the bottom drain. Then seal the valve (switch to skimmer)

Now use the shop vac and blow out the skimmer . Then plug it up with gizmo.

Now my only issue is the return line idk what to do/ what to unscrew. I know that i got to change the setting to recirculate on the filter though

 

[canadianpoolz]

Also looks like you could unscrew the union fitting at the filter (outlet) and/or heater and push air from there as well.

Do you mind circling on the photo what i should unscrew? So i have two options, heater or filter. Would you be able to mark where on the photos with a screen shot if possible ?

 

[Texas Splash]

Now my only issue is the return line idk what to do/ what to unscrew. I know that i got to change the setting to recirculate on the filter though

You should be able to unscrew the outlet nut on the multiport valve and push air from there all the way back through the heater and eventually to the return jets. That is IF the ShopVac has enough capacity to push that much air. If the ShopVac can't push that far, you may have to do it in stages like from the 3-way valve, then the MPV outlet, then the heater outlet going back to the pool. Or get a Cyclone designed to push that large amount (volume) or air.

 

[Texas Splash]

Do you mind circling on the photo what i should unscrew?

This is your filter outlet.

 

[Texas Splash]

My eyes are getting twisted around in the pics and I can't tell which one on the heater is the outlet, but if you follow the hoses I'm sure you can tell. The hose from the filter is going IN, then the other hose coming OUT is going to the final 3-way valve.

 

[canadianpoolz]

You should be able to unscrew the outlet nut on the multiport valve and push air from there all the way back through the heater and eventually to the return jets. That is IF the ShopVac has enough capacity to push that much air. If the ShopVac can't push that far, you may have to do it in stages like from the 3-way valve, then the MPV outlet, then the heater outlet going back to the pool. Or get a Cyclone designed to push that large amount (volume) or air.

This is your filter outlet.

View attachment 536371Ok

This is your filter outlet.

View attachment 536371

Okay thanks, So if unscrew this and blow air I should be fine hopefully? As long as the shopvac is strong enough. I'm screwed if it doesn't work cause honestly im a complete beginner at this.

 

[Texas Splash]

Okay thanks, So if unscrew this and blow air I should be fine hopefully? As long as the shopvac is strong enough. I'm screwed if it doesn't work cause honestly im a complete beginner at this.

In theory yes. The wildcard is the ShopVac. Some of them are not strong enough to push air for long distances, various equipment, etc. That's why I mentioned you "might" have to disconnect the plumbing from a couple of those spots if the ShopVac is struggling. In your area, purchasing a Cyclone blower is almost a must-have for yearly closing. I suspect your frost line is 3 feet or more, so you definitely wat to try and remove as much water form lines above the frost line as possible.

 

[canadianpoolz]

My eyes are getting twisted around in the pics and I can't tell which one on the heater is the outlet, but if you follow the hoses I'm sure you can tell. The hose from the filter is going IN, then the other hose coming OUT is going to the final 3-way valve.

So I would blow the one that is going from heater to the valve the controls the stairs and pool jets? (NEXT to the AC)?

 

[Texas Splash]

Here are a couple links that may help as well.

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool

Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

So I would blow the one that is going from heater to the valve the controls the stairs and pool jets? (NEXT to the AC)?

Correct

 

[Texas Splash]

I suspect your ShopVac may push air fairly well from the filter MPV outlet to the heater, and it may clear water from more of the flex pipe you have visible beyond the heater. But you want to ensure you clear as much water as possible from the plumbing at the 3-way valve before the pipes go back into the ground returning to the pool. That 3-4 feet below the surface is critical for you. For that spot, you may need to remove that 3-way handle (8 screws) to get maximum air pushing directly into the pipes.

 

[canadianpoolz]

Correct

Just to verify the one I highlighted right? I lined it up and its the one that's the one to unscrew. So i would push air directly into that pipe, and not through the heater obviously (dumb question - just want to make sure). So when blowing air out the jets - my plan is to drop the water down to an inch below the jets. Should I blow air until no more water comes out the jets and then seal them?

 

[Texas Splash]

Should I blow air until no more water comes out the jets and then seal them?

Correct. Once you have tried to clear water out of the plumbing lines, be sure to remove all drain plugs from the pump, filter, and heater. You can push some air through the heater as well, it won't hurt it.

 

[canadianpoolz]

Correct. Once you have tried to clear water out of the plumbing lines, be sure to remove all drain plugs from the pump, filter, and heater. You can push some air through the heater as well, it won't hurt it.

Thanks I appreciate this! What order do you think i should do this in? Drain, Skimmer, Return?

 

[Texas Splash]

What order do you think i should do this in? Drain, Skimmer, Return?

Be sure to balance the water chemistry first before closing. Then adjust the water level as needed. Once that's done, then you can start draining everything first to remove the residual water. Keep all the drain plugs safe and together. The pump pot is one option. Once you have drained everything, you can start opening-up the plumbing at those locations to gains access for the ShopVac/blower and start pushing air.

Stick close to those closing article links above to ensure you stay on track.