TFPC Recommended level vs manufacturer level

My mom and pop store was good like that. They were not out to get me in any regard and honestly were trying to be helpful to make loyal customers. But their complete ignorance on pool chemistry was in fact out to get me. Lol.
My local place is like that too. Nice folks, but insisting that di-chlor is the same thing as cal-hypo confirms the decision to not follow their advice. 🤨
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
I walked in on a company meeting when I brought a supply list for pool #2. They were adamant they couldn't know what I'd need until I was filled and the machine tested it.

Me: it's the same municipal water for all of us

8 of them: *blank stares*

Me: how long have you been here ? 30 years ? And you don't know how your tap water tests for the local pools you fill ?

Them: *blank stares*

One of them: using too much CYA is really bad and it needs to get an accurate baseline

Me: True. But it's not natural in water so we know it's a 0 to start.

One of them: We're waiting for a CYA delivery but you don't need CYA right away so you can wait. You see, when you lose some CYA you still have some in there.

Me: True. But its zero. There is none 'left' 🤦‍♂️ :brickwall::brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Turbo1Ton
Ok so I just come back from the pool store. They are using a Taylor bottle kit. He tested everything including cya. Only 1 data I'm unsure.

==========================================
Fibro F25
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Fiberglass
Volume: 30000 liters
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 3.0 (6 minutes ago)
pH: 8.2 (6 minutes ago)
TA: 110 (6 minutes ago)
CH: 160 (6 minutes ago)
CYA: 30 (6 minutes ago)
SALT: 2100 (6 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.05 (6 minutes ago)
============================ ==============

I have one data on his sheet which is called total chlorine. I don't think it's combine chlorine, says 3ppm.

So now, I need to raise cya, lower ph and add calcium. For TA, apps says to wait until ph is ok first.

Edit: so I got my calcium from pool store, got the muratic acid from hardware store. Can't find the liquid stabilizer at pool store. Is there something equivalent I can buy? All they have are stabilizer bars
 
Last edited:
How close to the border with the US are you?
Some Canadian members have had test kits shipped to a mail drop in the US near the border and driven down to retrieve them. You can have a TF-Pro Salt shipped to a US addrress and drive down to get it.

Even though your PS is using a Taylor test kit, there is no telling if they are doing the testing consistently or if their test vials are clean. Testing numerous pool - some sanitary and others not so sanitary - with the same equipment can easily cross contaminate the vials.

No one cares about your pool as much as you do.
Having your own quality test kit will save you time and money in the long run.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
On top of that ^^^^ we need to Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising the CYA for your SWG.

The pool store isn't open in the dark for either test and the comparator block test for FC doesn't give you a # for the FC, only a round about guess.

Also, If you need to SLAM now (if the OCLT fails) or down the road, the pool store won't test you every 2 hours like you need.

Also also, Your FC targets for SWG are far above what the comparator test can tell you.

swcg_chart.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: proavia
As for the cleaning of the vials, he cleaned them in my face when I appeared. 3 full water flush from the faucet, Took my water, filled, emptied and filled again with each vial.

I'm more than 4 hours from the US border unfortunately. The shipping isn't the problem. The tfpro salt is 170USD before taxes and shipping, plus currency conversion. That's over 250$ for me. It's a lot for a pool testing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
That's over 250$ for me. It's a lot for a pool testing.
It's made worse by the SWG removing the daily testing needs once it's dialed in, but to dial it in, or if you had any hiccups, you really need the kit.

If the shop is using Taylor, then you can probably buy it from them.
 
Funny thing, they only had aquarite pool test. I even ask the clerk and he said they don't sell that specific test kit...

Also, finding liquid stab is impossible. Done 5 different pool shop and other shop that sell pool stuff and everyone have granular stab... Looks like I'm stuck doing that.

For now, I know I at least need to increase so I'll increase and set. After, I'll simply take multiple sample and have them test it. I have like 5 bottle so at least, I can do a sunrise sunset sample and have it test.

I know it's not ideal, but until I find a way to not cash out 250$ on a water test kit, it will be better than nothing.
 
As for the cleaning of the vials, he cleaned them in my face when I appeared. 3 full water flush from the faucet, Took my water, filled, emptied and filled again with each vial.

I'm more than 4 hours from the US border unfortunately. The shipping isn't the problem. The tfpro salt is 170USD before taxes and shipping, plus currency conversion. That's over 250$ for me. It's a lot for a pool testing.

I'm also located in Canada - 2hrs west of Ottawa. Reagents when stored properly last a while and I've been able to use my TF-Pro Salt kit for 3 seasons. Just purchased a refill kit during the 20% off sale last month. It's a bit pricey but so is a pool. I've yet to battle any water chemistry issues and pool has always been clear. 🤞 I do use more of the FAS/DPD Reagent and Powder as I like to pretend to be Dr. Emmett Brown some days, but these can be purchased from Amazon.ca when you're in a pinch and you don't have to pay extra shipping costs. I use Shippsy. They clear the package and bring in into the country for $6.99 and they can also ship it directly to your door for a reasonable charge.

This is the thread that describes the steps to get the kit to you in Canada.


It is indeed alot of $$$ for the kit considering our CAD, but for me it is well worth it as our swimming season is too short to be fighting water quality issues. You can always make the money, but you can't get back the time.

Enjoy the pool season (y)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude and mknauss
I even ask the clerk and he said they don't sell that specific test kit...
They can sell you some of their stash. You just need to convince them to make an exception for you. Lol.
everyone have granular stab... Looks like I'm stuck doing that.
Awesome. We don't like liquid CYA anyway. It's three times as expensive (?) and very difficult to get a partial dose from the bottle.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I'm also located in Canada - 2hrs east of Ottawa. Reagents when stored properly last a while and I've been able to use my TF-Pro Salt kit for 3 seasons. Just purchased a refill kit during the 20% off sale last month. It's a bit pricey but so is a pool. I've yet to battle any water chemistry issues and pool has always been clear. 🤞 I do use more of the FAS/DPD Reagent and Powder as I like to pretend to be Dr. Emmett Brown some days, but these can be purchased from Amazon.ca when you're in a pinch and you don't have to pay extra shipping costs. I use Shippsy. They clear the package and bring in into the country for $6.99 and they can also ship it directly to your door for a reasonable charge.

This is the thread that describes the steps to get the kit to you in Canada.



It is indeed alot of $$$ for the kit considering our CAD, but for me it is well worth it as our swimming season is too short to be fighting water quality issues. You can always make the money, but you can't get back the time.

Enjoy the pool season (y)
In just east of you in Quebec, and that's already another layer of complexity. But shipping isn't really the issue, it's really the price. I honestly never had trouble with my pool since I have it, always clear, test from Ps always gave perfect result after a week or two after the opening shock. Had trouble with dial in the generator but that's because it change a lot if I have or not the solar cover. The pool isn't big (20x12 with seating areas and lots of steps that are as wide as the pool) and isn't deep (4'8" from bottom to top of pool so water is like 4'5" maybe) . My calculation give me 30 000liters but it's surely way less than that since it doesn't account for the steps. I need to ask my pool maker what's the volume.

Also depend on if I run 24/7 the pump. Right now I'm doing it, but during summer, I usually do 8 hours cycle. This change the dial, specially when it's running with or without the pool cover.
 
So, just called my pool maker to lean that I have 20 000 liters and not 30 000 liters! That change a lot of how many of everything I must put in that pool. Yesterday, I added the stab per the testing, I woke up with 0 FC (had to jump from 30 CYA to the target 75) and I only had 3.0 FC. I also found out I had a leak in my heat pump connection which made me lost quite a bit of water. I'm going to go have it tested again so I can have the proper information. Using my little 4 drop red and yellow, at least, the level of pH came down (it's not bright purple anymore, it's more in the red location) but FC doesn't even change color, it's stay clear. I'm probably gona slam it again just to be safe while I'm adding new water in it.
 
Ok, I just came back from the pool store (waiting on my Taylor kit to arrived). I confirmed they have the Taylor kit that I bought, saw the box and the reagents.

Now, I followed what the app told me last time but for 30 000 liters not 20 000liters which screwed a bit. Good thing I haven't put many stuff.
------------------------------------------
Test Results 2024-04-17 @ 04:08 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 4.0
pH: 7.8
Total Alkalinity: 120
Calcium Hardness: 190
CYA: 100
Salt: 2100
Temperature: 47°F
CSI: -0.34

Son right now the app tell me to lower my cya to 75 by draining.

This will change all other stuff for sure so I guess do that, retest and once cya is at 75, I start adjusting the rest?

This should also lower my pH which is a good thing.

Calcium though, I'm a bit lost. Pool store says 200-300, apps says 350 to 550. That seems a lot of calcium for a fiberglass pool.
 
Calcium though, I'm a bit lost. Pool store says 200-300, apps says 350 to 550. That seems a lot of calcium for a fiberglass pool.
Do you have water line tile with cement based grout? Do you have a heater with a manufacturer requirement for CH level?

If neither of the above, the CH level does not matter.
 
I have a heat pump. I have paver stone on top of the pool(it's fiberglass).

On my pool aquarite, I have a sticker with all the levels on it I should aim (even cya) and it says 125 to 250.

At the same time, it says to keep cya from 20-30
 
A heat pump is not effected by low CH. Neither is your paver stone (not in contact with the pool water).

You do not need to add any calcium to your pool water.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bperry and proavia
Ok. It doesn't change the water sensation? Unsure how to say that but softness or make it more comfortable for the people in the pool? I know out of balance ph and CL will cause discomfort and itchiness.
 
Ok because the abc chemistry on this website says this

Over time, water with low calcium levels will tend to dissolve calcium out of plaster, pebble, tile, stone, concrete, and to some extent fiberglass surfaces (...)
A plaster pool or fiberglass pool should attempt to keep their CH between 250 and 650ppm.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support