Wow is this something that can be done with one shock or will have to be done a few times? I cant imagine how expensive this is going to get if I have to shock a few times. I saw 18 lbs of shock needed which is probably about $45 each time if I buy the shock at wallmart, if I buy 12 to 15 gallons of bleach I cant imagine it will be any cheaper .... if I have to repeat a few times we are talknig hundreds of dollars and I cant be spending this kind of money right now.Rafalski said:linen said:Bring it up as high as you can (21 if you can do it) and do the OCLT.
The both methods for calculating FC levels work, it just that the Chlorine/cya chart is a bit more aggressive.
I am sure you guys hate me by now but no yet has answered my question clearly, and I am still confused on how to complete the OCLT, I do not have enough shock to bring it to shock level, last I checked I had 0 FC, so how do I do OCLT????? I asked couple times if I can do based on my SWG running last few hours, is it even worth testing to see what the FC is now?linen said:Do the OCLT first, and if you discover you need to do the shocking process then use bleach/liquid chlorine to do it. Algae outbreaks can be expensive to deal with, especially a pool as big as yours, and that is good motivation to not let it happen again
I have 3 lbs of shock left over 48% cal hypolinen said:Do you have any chlorine sources besides your swg at home? What and how much?
jblizzle, considering my water is so clear, is it still likely I will have a big problem or rather something that can be quickly fixed? am i possibly in for days of shocking this pool? Only problem at opening was that water in the hot tub was very cloudy (white/grayish color not green) and it stunk really bad, we drained that tub but can that be what used up all the FC on day 1? The pool water was very clean.jblizzle said:It is the shock process. You raise FC up to shock level as often add you can. Read the article in pool school again. You will get it soon
Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
Checked it twice last time and both times at 0, also TC came at 0. I did have the SWG at 60% for about 3 or 4 hours. Last year when I got the test kit my FC was at 17 with just SWG running for 8 hours a day, do not recall if I already lowered to 40% then or still at 60%. I did run the filter from like 7am to 3pm with solar cover and my pool gets sun for most of the day.linen said:That FC level is surprising. Are you sure you had 0 FC before you added? Your 48% cal hypo should have only raised your 34000 gallon pool to about 5 ppm FC.
well, I got it off the paperwork that builders supplied to the original owner of the house. Other than that would be hard to to figure out considering its a free form pool with hot tub. I believe its about 22 feet in widest point and about 40 long, about 8 feet on deep end I would say? I measured it last year for the solar cover but do not recall exactly. Not sure if it is any proof but my salt read 1.3 at start up, was told to add 14 bags of salt by shop, also pool calculator said 14 bags to get it to 3.2 for 34000 gallons. I checked today and salt level reads exactly 3.2linen said:How certain are you of your pool volume?
dont forget the hot tub is probably another 6 feed wide and 5 feed deep, minus the seating area. I might be wrong and it is 24 wide or long is 42. Also the pool is fairly similar in width, it does curve fairly evenly. I will have to take measurements tomorrow morning.linen said:I think your volume might be significantly over estimated. For fun I used pool calculator and rectangular form factor 40X22 with an average 5 ft depth and got 33K gallons. You must be significantly less than that if it is irregular in shape.