SWG not generating chlorine

FoxHallHokie

Member
May 24, 2022
9
Richmond, VA
Thanks in advance for the help.

On Sunday morning, I tested my water and there was zero chlorine. I used the Taylor FAS-DPD test kit (no pink). I usually have my pump on 24/7 around 1,500 RPMs unless we are using the pool and the salt cell is set to 25%, so there is no way it should be zero. I turned on the BOOST setting Sunday AM and then tested again Sunday night and still zero chlorine. I powered everything off, checked the salt cell (no buildup at all), checked the electrical connections, and turned it back on. I tested the salt in the water and it was 3,400ppm. I kept the BOOST setting on overnight and when I tested Monday AM there was still zero chlorine. Just to make sure my test kits were good, I shocked the pool Monday AM. Monday evening, the test showed 2.5-3PPM of chlorine, about what I would expect from the shock. I did a hard power off again and then ran the SWG at 100% overnight. This morning the chlorine level was still 2.5-3PPM, where it should have been closer to 6PPM. There have been no error messages on the SWG the entire time. Not sure what to do next.
 
Post the results of your most recent pool water test. List them accordingly:
FC
CC
pH
CH
TA
CYA

Testing regularly at home using a proper test kit Test Kits Compared is required to keep a pool trouble free and it can diagnose a situation like the one you describe. The first step is to confirm your FC/CYA Levels and recent history. Next note your CC ppm and run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Your SWCG system operates best when it maintains proper FC levels, if you get behind then a low level algae population can get established and may be the cause of your issue. Assuming your cell is functioning properly.
 
Hold old is the cell?

What size cell?

What % do you run it at for how many hours a day of pump time?

Check the volts and amps in the diagnostics...

My fiberglass pool was installed last year so it's about 1-year old. Not sure what size cell but it is the Autopilot PPC2.

Pump is running 24/7 and I have it set at 25% of the time.

Ran the diagnostics and it was 20V and 5.1amps.

The folks that installed the pool suggested I test for phosphates.
 
Post the results of your most recent pool water test. List them accordingly:
FC
CC
pH
CH
TA
CYA

Testing regularly at home using a proper test kit Test Kits Compared is required to keep a pool trouble free and it can diagnose a situation like the one you describe. The first step is to confirm your FC/CYA Levels and recent history. Next note your CC ppm and run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Your SWCG system operates best when it maintains proper FC levels, if you get behind then a low level algae population can get established and may be the cause of your issue. Assuming your cell is functioning properly.

My test from July 4 was:

FC 3.0
CC 0
pH 7.8
CH 150
TA 70
CYA 50

On Sunday the FC was 0 despite the pump/SWG running the whole time. I didn't bother to test the other levels once I saw that but they have largely been in the current range all summer. I will try the OCLT tonight.
 
My fiberglass pool was installed last year so it's about 1-year old. Not sure what size cell but it is the Autopilot PPC2.

Pump is running 24/7 and I have it set at 25% of the time.

Ran the diagnostics and it was 20V and 5.1amps.

The folks that installed the pool suggested I test for phosphates.

First thing I would do is increase your % to 80% which will give you 5.6 ppm of FC/day.

Running the SWG at 25% generates 1.8 ppm of FC while the average pool this time of year loses 3-4 ppm of FC.

I think your % generation is lower then your daily FC loss from the suns UV.

You may now have a bit of an algae problem so do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
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First thing I would do is increase your % to 80% which will give you 5.6 ppm of FC/day.

Running the SWG at 25% generates 1.8 ppm of FC while the average pool this time of year loses 3-4 ppm of FC.

I think your % generation is lower then your daily FC loss from the suns UV.

You may now have a bit of an algae problem so do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Thanks. Will try that. We have a cover on it when not being used. Not sure how much that impacts the daily loss.
 
Kill the algae like ajw22 said and you will never have to worry about phosphate levels because there wont be any algae to use the phosphates.

You may want to increase your CYA when you get algae killed. I like mine up to 70.
 

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You can swim up to SLAM FC level as long as you can see the pool bottom.
How long, it depends. Several days is optimistic but prepare to stay the course once you begin. Stock up on fresh reagents, source liquid chlorine and block off your schedule. Maintaining your FC at SLAM level is key along with exposing the contaminant to the sanitizer. Brushing, filtering and cleaning all of hiding places within your pool water system will make the process more efficient.
Read and reread the SLAM Process . Once you are back in control stay well in the target range for your CYA and test regularly to maintain your trouble free pool. :cheers:
 
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You can swim up to SLAM FC level as long as you can see the pool bottom.
How long, it depends. Several days is optimistic but prepare to stay the course once you begin. Stock up on fresh reagents, source liquid chlorine and block off your schedule. Maintaining your FC at SLAM level is key along with exposing the contaminant to the sanitizer. Brushing, filtering and cleaning all of hiding places within your pool water system will make the process more efficient.
Read and reread the SLAM Process . Once you are back in control stay well in the target range for your CYA and test regularly to maintain your trouble free pool. :cheers:
I have an autocover. Would you keep it open during SLAM or keep it closed when not adding liquid chlorine or brushing/vacuuming?
 
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