Replace 3-Prong Pool Motor Outlet

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I'm pretty certain the reading was .02. The camera angle on the multimeter screen was such that the decimal did not show up. The battery in my multimeter is new so no issues with the equipment. I'll retest and get angle on the multimeter screen to confirm. Don't want to overlook anything here. Thank you JamesW
 
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lplatz said:
The battery in my multimeter is new so no issues with the equipment.
Click to expand...
What I meant was to check the voltage of a AA or AAA battery to see if the meter reads the voltage correctly.

Sometimes meters do not do well with low voltages.

The proper voltage for AA/AAA alkaline battery is 1.5V DC.

Check the voltage in both polarities by reversing the leads to see if the reading is the same except for the polarity.
 
I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. I tested my multimeter with a AAA battery to check calibration. All good. The following is a re-test on the pin 2 & 4 from the main board. (see video:
). Wanted to confirm I was reporting the right numbers from this test. Reading is verified at .02. Are there any additional steps to isolate if this is a main board or LCD board issue?

As a follow up question (see video
), the reading I got for the VAC test from the orange wire to the green grounding lug was high. Expecting 10 - 15VAC, tested at 21 VAC. Any ideas why this is above the expected range and does this help pinpoint or narrow down what my issue might be?
 
In my opinion, the orange to ground is probably ok because the voltage coming off of the secondary on the transformer is not referenced to ground.

The AC voltage at the two yellow wires is good and the voltage at the red and black DC out of the rectifiers is good, so, I think that you are ok.

As best as I can tell, you are doing the pin 2 to 4 test correctly, which points to a bad main board.
 
Thank you for your time and insight on this troubleshoot. I guessed as much that it was a main board issue, but wanted to hear if from an expert before taking this up with the vendor I ordered the control box from. BTW... the new impeller is on its way. Hope to get it tomorrow. I'll install immediately and if any additional issues, I'll let you know. Huge thanks again for all your help!!!
 
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I was thinking the same thing. According to the seller, the panel is new. It's been a heck of a project between the new motor and the new control panel. I expected this to be a slam dunk install. Its been everything but. In reading through all the forums on others who had this same issue, the U13 chip kept coming up as the reason for the board failure. No way, no how, did I want to take on changing out that chip. It's buried on the board and I've seen what others have had to go through to replace the chip. I'm asking for a new main board to replace the faulty one. Simple switch/install.
 
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It appears the vendor is going to order me a new main board for my AQ-TROL-RJ panel. In prepping, I sent him a pic of the main board ID (see attached file 2023-11-25 14.28.25...). I got curious about what the main board ID was for my old AQ-TROL-RJ panel that I'm replacing. Attached is a picture of that ID number. The thing that caught my attention was the REV for the new board compared to the old board REV (attached file 2023-11-26 11.39.02...). The new board has a REV A identifier. My old board has a REV B identifier. Both are 2013 boards. Is my old board newer than the board in my new control panel?
 

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Happy to report in, having received new impeller for pump motor and main board for Aqua Trol panel. Both have been installed and system appears to be working with one additional question regarding the diagnostics. I am only running the pump 5 hours a day given our colder temperatures. For the last two days, I've been checking to ensure the timer was working properly; both to kick on the Aqual Trol system and confirm the motor was running. While cycling through the diagnostic readings, all readings are showing excluding the Amps reading & the Instant Salt. If I switch the system from "Auto" to "Off" then back to "Auto", I will get the familiar click and the Amps appear as does the Instant Salt reading. Is this normal? I don't ever recall finding the Amps at 0 when the system is running. My production is currently set to 30.

The link is for a quick video of me cycling through the diagnostics:
 

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COLD Water Temperature.​

  • The cell output reduces to 20% at 60°F and below if % is above 20%
  • The cell shuts off when water temperature at 50F and below
  • LCD displays COLD when water temperature is below 50F.
The newer units have a cycle time of 180 minutes.

So, at 20%, the amps will be good for 36 minutes and then zero for 144 minutes.
 
What are all of the cell diagnostic readings?

What is the current pump current (Amps)?

How is the flow with the new smaller impeller compared to the old larger impeller?
 
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