Pros and cons of SWG

[HofstraJet]

How reliable are the Jandy AquaPure cells? My sister and I both have current iAquaLink RS systems we just upgraded and I'm considering getting each of us an AquaPure PLC 1400. I keep reading about replacing cells every few years. Is that by design? Is a cell a consumable? Is the AquaPure Ei any better?

Thanks!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

How reliable are the Jandy AquaPure cells? My sister and I both have current iAquaLink RS systems we just upgraded and I'm considering getting each of us a PLC 1400. I keep reading about replacing cells every few years. Is that by design? Is a cell a consumable? Is the AquaPure Ei any better?

Thanks!

All cells have a finite lifetime. Most good retail brands are ~10,000 hours.

The Ei produces less chlorine per 24-hr period than the 1400. I believe the Ei produces about 0.93lbs-Cl/day whereas the 1400 produces 1.25lbs-Cl/day


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[Semi-retired]

It's the higher CYA level of 80 ppm that cuts down on chlorine loss from sunlight and lets you turn down the SWG % ontime. The use of 50 ppm Borates just adds additional pH buffering so that the rate of pH rise is slower though it shouldn't reduce the total amount of acid that you need to add. The Borates are also a mild algaecide so if your pool was on the edge of having algae growth, then that would help to lower chlorine usage and therefore lower the % ontime, but the better way is to make sure the FC/CYA level is correct and if necessary kill off any algae first. You can also lower the amount of acid needed from the carbon dioxide outgassing from the waterbowl features by having a low TA level. If you go lower than the recommended levels for TA, you can compensate with a higher CH level. Also, having a higher pH target helps reduce carbon dioxide outgassing.

Thanks for clarifying that Chem Geek. If I go lower on TA than the TFP recommended, about how much lower; and, about how much higher CH level to compensate? I keep the pH in the 7.5 to 7.8 range, usually 7.8. I don't mind the muriatic acid additions, it's just a lot more than I was used to in previous pools. I also don't want to get into "ping-ponging" the pH by lowering the TA too much, I think.

 

[ping]

How reliable are the Jandy AquaPure cells? My sister and I both have current iAquaLink RS systems we just upgraded and I'm considering getting each of us an AquaPure PLC 1400. I keep reading about replacing cells every few years. Is that by design? Is a cell a consumable? Is the AquaPure Ei any better?

Thanks!

I believe the Ei is a discontinued model so count that one out. Jandy Aquapure is a decent brand, they just had a lot of sensor issues with their old design of sensor. The latest sensor design seems to have solved their problems and I would install the Aquapure if I had Jandy automation. Just make sure you buy a system that includes the latest design of sensor. It will have a control box that needs to be programmed according to the firmware of the system. It is not the sensor that has a small board that gets installed between the sensor and main board.

 

[ping]

Thanks for clarifying that Chem Geek. If I go lower on TA than the TFP recommended, about how much lower; and, about how much higher CH level to compensate? I keep the pH in the 7.5 to 7.8 range, usually 7.8. I don't mind the muriatic acid additions, it's just a lot more than I was used to in previous pools. I also don't want to get into "ping-ponging" the pH by lowering the TA too much, I think.

You need to play around with the CSI to make sure you stay above -.6 to prevent etching of the plaster. Try the TA at 50 and see if it helps if your other parameters will allow you to get that low with the TA. Use PoolMath to calculate the CSI.

 

[chem geek]

Because CH is easy to increase and harder to decrease (i.e. you have to dilute the water), you should try the lower TA first to see if it helps and if it does then you can increase the CH to balance the CSI.