NO FREE CHLORINE

If you expect that your TA level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 1 drop of R-0007, 3 drops of R-0008, and multiply the number of drops of R-0009 by 25 to get your TA level.

For now however.....worry about shocking your pool. What are your FC and CC levels??
 
I've been shocking all day- every hour or so- FC is going up, dropped to 17 last time-going to bring it back to 20 with next check -and check the CC (didn't do the whole CC test last time but it was light pink so still had CC). After next chlorine dump I'm closing the auto cover for the night. It's been really windy here today and was wondering if in those conditions I should cover the pool or not during the day. It was a hard to keep stuff out of the pool.
 
In reference to the TA test. You are within a few drops of color change when the color starts to "flash" like that. Have you tried wiping the tip of the R-0009 dropper with a damp cloth every couple of drops? Sometimes static electricity builds up and causes the drops to come out smaller. Also hold the dropper mostly vertical while dropping in the drops.
 
Here are my morning test results-(shocked to FC 20 covered pool for night).

FC 10
CC 1
PH 7.2
TA 500
CYA 70

I just shocked to reach 20 again- today I will only be able to shock every few hours instead of hourly-also keeping mostly covered because we're supposed to have high winds again today.
Should I worry about my TA YET?
 
It looks like your shocking "process" is working just fine. Is the water clearing up at all? Keep it up!

As for the TA. I'm going to be 100% honest with you here. While some of me thinks this that this could be a high reading from testing errors, I too would worry about this high of a level too. In many ways TA won't harm much, a very high level CAN cause some issues. Rather than me telling you.....do this... I'm going to sit back and hope some truly smart people answer this question. It would wrong of me to give you any answer as I'm not 100% sure just what I would do in this case.
 
It is unlikely your TA is really anywhere near 500. If it was, I can't imagine that PH could possibly be as low as 7.2. If TA was really around 500 the PH would be steadily going up and nothing short of a massive acid addition would bring the PH down. If I am reading correctly the PH has been moving around a bit, both up and down and all within normal ranges.

I suggest you don't worry about TA at all right at the moment, just check the PH any time FC is below 10, and as long as the PH remains between 7.2 and 7.8, leave PH and TA for after you are done shocking.
 

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I'm unsure of whether to cover with auto cover or not during shocking. I'm thinking that it's would save the chlorine from getting eaten up by the sun, thus letting it kill what ever is in my pool. I always cover at night due to little things,(frogs, a family of moles etc.) that seem to love my pool. I Always cover when not at home-good or bad habit? Pool store always told me to keep it open, but I figure that's so they can sell me more stuff to keep it clean. One of the Auto Cover Co's. selling point is that it cuts down on chemicals..... Who's correct?
 
Kjohnson said:
I'm unsure of whether to cover with auto cover or not during shocking. I'm thinking that it's would save the chlorine from getting eaten up by the sun, thus letting it kill what ever is in my pool.
Well, the cover will protect chlorine from the sun, but the pool needs to be exposed to the sun during shocking so the sun can help burn CC's.

I always cover at night due to little things,(frogs, a family of moles etc.) that seem to love my pool.
I Always cover when not at home-good or bad habit?
Sounds like a good habit to me, except you do need to let the sun get to the CC's at least a few hours a day.

Pool store always told me to keep it open, but I figure that's so they can sell me more stuff to keep it clean.
Why always keep it open? That makes no sense at all.

One of the Auto Cover Co's. selling point is that it cuts down on chemicals..... Who's correct?
Not the pool store.
 
I've been shocking to FC 20 for a few days now. Here are my moring results:
FC 10.5
CC .5
PH 7.2

I can see the deep end drain which is a first this year, so pool is slowly clearing. I'll continue shocking today, leave my cover off and vaccum- Do I have to wait until I pass the over night test before I can adjust my PH? And does my low ph have anything to do with my pools cloudiness? As in my previous posts, my TA seems really high but not effecting my PH (?).
 
Your ph level is off due to the high levels of FC during shocking. Adjusting the ph at this point will only lead you to having to re-adjust it later as you're starting at an incorrect point. It's not affecting the water clarity, nor the shocking process. Wait until your FC is below 10 to test.
 
Just 2nd did my 2nd test of the day- can FC actually go up after 3 hrs?
FC was 10.5 CC 0, added amt. on pool cal. to get to FC 20 (7:00 AM)

Just tested FC was 24, CC 1- Possible?

P.S. I'm running our of drops to check FC-(on order) any tricks to dilute water and use less. As my Shock level is so high, I use ALOT of drops.
 
If I'm guessing your test was either a tad bit off on the first one, you measured to much, or maybe you got a good dose of bleach. Either way a small increase is no problem. The CC of 1 now is normal, just means the chlorine is actively fighting something.

To dilute the test and save drops.....a quote from our leader JasonLion
JasonLion said:
Yes, as long as the dilution water is chlorine free you can mix equal amounts of pool water and chlorine free water, do the test on that, and count each drop of reagent as 1.0 ppm of chlorine.

Here's a link to the full thread....
quick-question-on-fc-test-dilution-t44752.html
 

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