Leaving Frog Leap packs for Liquid Chlorine

whiter0se

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2022
70
NYC
Pool Size
5500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi all,
I just brought a new house with a large AGP and as a first time home owner and a pool owner I was clueless until I started researching and ended up here. The pool currently uses the Frog leap packs which are not only expensive but jack up the CYA levels.
As of now, the pool is sanitized and feels and looks great. The PH is stable as well as the alkalinity however the CYA is higher than I’d like and that’s getting me worried.

I’ve started to pay attention to what products I’m using and making sure I only purchase items which don’t contribute any more CYA into the water.

I’ve also decided to switch to Liquid Chlorine just to keep the CYA under control. Now my question is, can I just purchase any type of liquid chlorine? Are they all CYA-free? Does the brand matter? Is a price of $6.99/gallon good? I have maybe 1.5 months of pool weather left here in NYC.

As for the shock method, I’ve purchased HTH shock treatment from Costco. $60 for a box of 15x1LB units. They are also CYA free.

Thanks everyone for the wealth of knowledge and thanks for replying here.
 
Welcome to TFP.

What test kit are you using?

Liquid chlorine never has CYA in it. Read Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

Using TFP methods we never need to shock a pool.



The HTH shock has no CYA but it is cal-hypo and it has calcium.

 
Welcome to TFP.

What test kit are you using?

Liquid chlorine never has CYA in it. Read Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

Using TFP methods we never need to shock a pool.



The HTH shock has no CYA but it is cal-hypo and it has calcium.

As of now, I am using test strips (I know they are not recommended) and I am planning on purchasing one of the test kits recommended here pretty soon. As of now I am using the AquaCheck Chlorine 4-in-1 test strips. It measures the PH, FC, Alkalinity, and CYA. The CYA levels look to be really high and I've used the Frog test strips along with HTH's own test strips to confirm the readings. With the hard-to-match colors I believe the CYA may be at somewhere between 150-300PPM which scares me. Although I do monitor the FC and it does drop somewhat everyday which leads me to believe at least the chlorine is somewhat effective? (side note: I removed all frog leap packs and keeping a real close eye on CC and FC with test strips now).

I understand the SLAM method now with the video, appreciate it. Basically we are keeping a high level of FC and maintaining that until we get rid of all algae and CC if I understand correctly.

I may end up returning the HTH shock and start SLAMing the water instead, however, I'd need to find liquid choline for the same price as the HTH shock or close.
 
Hi W and welcome to the forum. Your suspected range of CYA while high, is too broad to be able to make any decisions regarding specific chlorination levels. This is why an appropriate test kit is imperative for proper water management.

Why do you feel you need to SLAM? At your suspected levels of CYA you would need to drain and refill 75% - 90% of your water (depending on what actual cya content is) to reduce CYA enough to begin an effective SLAM. But again without good test data as a starting point, any move to adjust is pure speculation.

You will want to get a test kit ordered ASAP to have reliable data to begin making appropriate decisions. More info on test kits can be found here, Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared.
 
For now until kit arrives just use liquid chlorine and nothing else, that's 5 ppm of LC as per poolmath. When the kit arrives do the full chair of levels as per the instruction card and then post in the same order as the testing. You may be surprised how different the results can be.
 
Thank you all. I will order the TF-100 this week. I just did two readings with test strips and the Aquacheck shows stabilizer at 30-50PPM whereas the HTH strips show approximately 100?
Attaching a photo of the HTH test strip. This is with me dipping at least 12in from the surface of the water, waiting 2 seconds and removing and waiting 20secs for the colors to change.
 

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