Just received my new Taylor K-2006C - Please tell me how my pool looks.

[eostrike]

Thanks Bruce for the reply. Yes I have a SWG, everything pertaining to my pool is in my signature. I was told to get my CYA up to 70 here in this thread. I will check over your link when I get home from work.

As for FC is was at 4 last week. Two days ago it was at 2.5 and this morning 2.6. This is without adding chlorine as I have a SWG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jblizzle]

Use 10ml water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm. Do not worry about the cc that low.

Always continue adding drops until the last drop causes no further color change and then do not count that last drop. It does not sound like you got to the end point for the CH test.

 

[Mr Bruce]

Thanks Bruce for the reply. Yes I have a SWG, everything pertaining to my pool is in my signature. I was told to get my CYA up to 70 here in this thread. I will check over your link when I get home from work.

As for FC is was at 4 last week. Two days ago it was at 2.5 and this morning 2.6. This is without adding chlorine as I have a SWG.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at your sig twice before commenting I just don't know model numbers or equipment, most people put "SWG" in there somewhere.

 

[eostrike]

Use 10ml water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm. Do not worry about the cc that low.

Always continue adding drops until the last drop causes no further color change and then do not count that last drop. It does not sound like you got to the end point for the CH test.

I will start doing this. I know I was told to use the 10ml in this thread to save reagents. Thank you!

 

[eostrike]

I looked at your sig twice before commenting I just don't know model numbers or equipment, most people put "SWG" in there somewhere.

Thanks Bruce, I just added SWG to my signature. I appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

[eostrike]

Okay I just checked it when I got home at 3:30 PM today using 10ml for the chlorine test. Looks much better this way.

FC - 3
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 90
CH - 200
CYA - 75

I need to print out the link that Bruce shared with me, I'm sure I have already seen it but I will print and place in my kit as he instructed .

Use 10ml water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm. Do not worry about the cc that low.

Always continue adding drops until the last drop causes no further color change and then do not count that last drop. It does not sound like you got to the end point for the CH test.

 

[jblizzle]

I would want the FC a little higher, might need to turn up the SWG a bit.

 

[eostrike]

I would want the FC a little higher, might need to turn up the SWG a bit.

So the SWG is at 60%. I can turn it up to 80% yet the SWG will be working longer. If this is needed I will change it for tomorrow's cycle or just add chlorine since I have 1 gallon left from when we first started the pool. Which would be the best option?

 

[jblizzle]

You could try to add the bleach you have and see if the SWG then keeps the FC maintained. With a CYA of 75, you never want the FC to be less than 4ppm or problems can develop. Thus, I would try to keep it around 5ppm.

 

[eostrike]

You could try to add the bleach you have and see if the SWG then keeps the FC maintained. With a CYA of 75, you never want the FC to be less than 4ppm or problems can develop. Thus, I would try to keep it around 5ppm.

Thank you. I will work on the this right away.

 

[doc8404]

If you're talking about the TA, it's actually more of a magenta pink. I don't know why they say red!

thank you...thought I was going color blind!

 

[wjr75]

Before a big party you can always add liquid chlorine to get to the high end of the FC/CYA target. I actually add about 2ppm above my target before a party.

 

[eostrike]

Okay I am really confused now. So yesterday these were my readings:

FC - 3
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 90
CH - 200
CYA – 75

Chlorine was low so I added ¾ of a gallon of chlorine to bring up the FC. This morning before work I tested only FC and it was now at 5.
I just got home from work today and retested everything and here is today’s readings:

FC – 3.5
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 90
CH - 210
CYA – 70

The weather is 75 today and I have a SWG. Is chlorine supposed to go from a 5 to a 3.5 like this when you have a SWG? I have it set to 60%. I can raise it to 80% on the SWG but want to make sure there is not something else going on here.
I know I am testing things like CYA more than I should but I am new at this and since CYA and FC work together I am trying to figure out why my chlorine is going away like this 8 hours later.

Thought, ideas?

it is starting to warm up these days so maybe this is all normal.

 

[Richard320]

Okay I am really confused now. So yesterday these were my readings:

FC - 3
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 90
CH - 200
CYA – 75

Chlorine was low so I added ¾ of a gallon of chlorine to bring up the FC. This morning before work I tested only FC and it was now at 5.
I just got home from work today and retested everything and here is today’s readings:

FC – 3.5
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 90
CH - 210
CYA – 70

The weather is 75 today and I have a SWG. Is chlorine supposed to go from a 5 to a 3.5 like this when you have a SWG? I have it set to 60%. I can raise it to 80% on the SWG but want to make sure there is not something else going on here.
I know I am testing things like CYA more than I should but I am new at this and since CYA and FC work together I am trying to figure out why my chlorine is going away like this 8 hours later.

Thought, ideas?

Something could be growing, or your SWG just isn't putting out enough.

Remember, the SWG % is the on-off time, like a microwave oven. It onlys knows on and off, no middle ground, so it cycles to get the percentage. But that percentage is of the amount of time water is flowing through it, not it's absolute max output. So if the pump wasn't on all day, nothing was being generated. Or if the pump was on for 4 hours at 50%, you got essentially 2 hours at 100% and so on. You might need to either raise filter time or SWG%.

If the pump was on the whole time, dial the SWG up some more. If it's still low tomorrow, you've got a problem and an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is called for. Or run it tonight. Your call.

 

[eostrike]

I run my pump 9 hours a day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Richard320]

I run my pump 9 hours a day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But was it on the whole time you were gone?

 

[needsajet]

Sounds to me like you're doing really well on testing and running your pool. From my limited experience and some good advice here, what I did was start out with a high setting and then dial it back. My pump runs during the day, so it's replacing FC lost to the sunshine or bather load. I tried running it at night, and it would be high in the morning and then drop through the daytime, which is also OK, but the morning reading would need to cover the minimum plus the potential daily loss.

For 70 CYA, I settled on using a range of 4 to 8 ppm FC. As long as the SWC keeps the FC within that range, I don't change it. If it stays at 7-8 for a week or more, I'll turn it down, or if it's always 4-5, I turn it up. I like it to be in a really safe range, but not over-manage it, so that's why I gave myself the range.

 

[eostrike]

But was it on the whole time you were gone?

So I run the pool sweeper everyday from 5a to 8a. Then I run the pump everyday from 8a until 3:30p.

So that actually circulates the water 10.5 hours a day.

 

[eostrike]

Pool just went into service a couple months ago. I'll purchase the cleaning kit for my Pentair IC40 SWG and clean the cell when it comes arrives.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pooldv]

Only clean it if there is calcium build up in the cell. No need to clean it otherwise. The acid will just shorten the life of the cell.