Is downsizing from 3hp variable to 1.85hp variable a valid suggestion if we want to try to solve the air bubble issue?

Turn off the SWCG and see what happens to the bubbles. Might take a while to clear the pipes of hydrogen.

Please put the model of SWCG you have in your signature. I did not catch that ‘salt’.
 
Turn off the SWCG and see what happens to the bubbles. Might take a while to clear the pipes of hydrogen.

Please put the model of SWCG you have in your signature. I did not catch that ‘salt’.
The pump is dead. I'll need to get a replacement hp (which I will keep at 3hp as per your suggestion). If you have a brand recommendation other than what I have in my signature I'll all ears.
I will update my signature with the SWCG model number, good idea.
 
Air bubbles in your system has nothing to do with your filter. Your filter, pump running, is pressurized and cannot suck in air.

It can leak water or air out but it cannot suck either one in.

YOu seem to be describing a suction side leak which is often tough to find but EASY to fix once you locate it.

There is an article in Pool School that may help
 
If you have a brand recommendation other than what I have in my signature I'll all ears.
It appears you have an EcoStar. I believe the TriStar is direct replacement. Check with Hayward or a supplier.

Please put what Aquarite you have. T9, T15, etc.
 
It appears you have an EcoStar. I believe the TriStar is direct replacement. Check with Hayward or a supplier.

Please put what Aquarite you have. T9, T15, etc.
It's T-15 cell. I just updated my signature with that info.l

If you need the AquaRite SWCG model number, I don't have that right now - I'm trying to find that out but best I can provide is it's AquaRite Electonic Chlorine Generator, same one seen here: http://edc.poolsupplyworld.com/wpdf/aquariteom.pdf

Once I figure out the model number (perhaps via serial number lookup or via label on the SWCG itself), I'll update signature accordingly
 
Let's ask @Texas Splash about the filter rod. I think he has that filter.
@cflannagan, we have slightly different model filters, but close enough. You can see mine in my Pool Build link in my signature. Below are a couple links from when I did maintenance on mine. Maybe it will give you some tips for whatever is going on with yours. Just to compare notes ........ our pools are about the same size. I generally have to rinse my (single) cartridge off about every 3 weeks. I have been using the same cartridge filter for about 7 years now. It's a little discolored from years of service, and a couple of the glue points on the bands are loose, but it works fine. I keep my chemistry good and a skimmer sock in the skimmer to catch a majority of stuff that hits the water and I'm generally good. Hope that helps.


 

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@cflannagan, we have slightly different model filters, but close enough. You can see mine in my Pool Build link in my signature. Below are a couple links from when I did maintenance on mine. Maybe it will give you some tips for whatever is going on with yours. Just to compare notes ........ our pools are about the same size. I generally have to rinse my (single) cartridge off about every 3 weeks. I have been using the same cartridge filter for about 7 years now. It's a little discolored from years of service, and a couple of the glue points on the bands are loose, but it works fine. I keep my chemistry good and a skimmer sock in the skimmer to catch a majority of stuff that hits the water and I'm generally good. Hope that helps.


Yup! I actually referenced to one of those links in the 3rd post in this thread Is downsizing from 3hp variable to 1.85hp variable a valid suggestion if we want to try to solve the air bubble issue?

Helpful, I added yours into my list of potential issues that I need to identify, isolate, or rule out, etc. Thanks for that.

One of the questions I've been trying to ask throughout this thread: How easy or hard should the top and bottom parts of the cylinder be to be closed without the rod? I don't think anybody've answered that (as far as I can tell). I need a reference point by others for comparing.

I removed the rod, was planning to take it to Home Depot, so I can ensure I get the right thread repair kit. But when I tried to connect top and bottom parts together (that's without the rod), I'm unable to have it close all the way. There's gap around the connecting area. I am curious if this is indicative of a possibility that I don't have a threading/rod issue, but a lubricant problem maybe? Similar to this: Cannot close filter
 
Is this a good 3hp variable pump replacement? Black And Decker..
If you're not getting one of the big 3, look at calimar. It's 40% the cost of the B&D and the important parts look to be identical.


It only has to last a third as long as the big 3 pumps to break even and it will likely last as long as them.
 
Re: the cartridge filter cylinder container - when I have the rod removed, I cannot close top/bottom parts together. Is this indicative of a lubricant issue (as in maybe the rod wasn't the issue in the first place)?
Yes, the rubber o-ring between the filter halves should be lubricated with Magic Lube II or similar silicone lube.

How old is the o-ring? It may have reached end of life.

In any case, I would open the filter and clean both sides of the track where the o-ring sits. Get any debris out and wipe the tracks clean. Check the o-ring itself. If it's not perfectly smooth and round, replace it.

I wouldn't think it terribly likely this is the reason your filter won't close (but if it is, the fix is easy). Perhaps one half of the filter body is not perfectly round any more?
 
If you're not getting one of the big 3, look at calimar. It's 40% the cost of the B&D and the important parts look to be identical.


It only has to last a third as long as the big 3 pumps to break even and it will likely last as long as them.
Swweeeet! Thanks for that link! Added into my notes!
 
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I am curious if this is indicative of a possibility that I don't have a threading/rod issue, but a lubricant problem maybe?
That or the knob itself is not allow it to seat fully onto the rod. I had that problem. I finally resolved it by removing the knob completely, cleaning it up, and adding some pool lube to everything, including the rod threads.
 
Yes, the rubber o-ring between the filter halves should be lubricated with Magic Lube II or similar silicone lube.

How old is the o-ring? It may have reached end of life.

In any case, I would open the filter and clean both sides of the track where the o-ring sits. Get any debris out and wipe the tracks clean. Check the o-ring itself. If it's not perfectly smooth and round, replace it.

I wouldn't think it terribly likely this is the reason your filter won't close (but if it is, the fix is easy). Perhaps one half of the filter body is not perfectly round any more?
Pretty old, possibly original o-ring. I'll take a better look at oring and the roundness now and see if this issue is plausible. Noted that you said this is likely not the issue - just want to make sure we can rule this one out. BRB
 
With a spa, many prefer to have an automation system that turns the valves, ramps up the pump rpm, starts the heater, etc. Just wanted to be sure as a non-Hayward pump would not work with a Hayward automation system.
 
With a spa, many prefer to have an automation system that turns the valves, ramps up the pump rpm, starts the heater, etc. Just wanted to be sure as a non-Hayward pump would not work with a Hayward automation system.
Ahh no, nothing like that, outside built-in automation that our current pump offers (starts pumping at specific time). No automation for turning valves, heating up, etc.
 
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