Ideas for adding pool overflow mid-build

Foosman

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 21, 2016
371
Austin, TX
We are at the gunite stage with plumbing run to the pad and under pressure. I did not plan on an overflow and a friend just suggested I add one. I'm not really concerned about water overflowing during heavy rains, but more for afterwards as I understand the skimmers won't work well. It looks like my Pentair bermuda skimmers do NOT have a knock out to easily connect up an overflow drain. Rather than trying to alter the pool now, I'm wondering if setting up a manual valve at the pad would be better. My filter is a Pentair 520 cartridge, so no back flow valve to dump water. What are your thoughts on adding a manual valve that diverts the water from the pool return to another pipe that's run to the back of the pool? I can move the valve and turn on filter mode and it would pump water out.
 
That is how mine is fixed up. I wish I had something like a hole in my skimmer towards the top that will allow the extra water to flow out as needed.

I wonder if they could do something like that for you? I am betting your decking is not in yet so............

Kim:kim:
 
Drain valve would be fine. Between pump and filter is ideal. Drain valve can be handy for other reasons as well.

You could add a passive overflow by drilling a hole in the skimmer box, with diameter same as outside of 1" pipe. Then maybe make collars out of a 1" coupling if you want to get fancy. Epoxy that in and good to go. (there's no pressure on a passive overflow) Make the bottom of the pipe same height as top of skimmer or a little above for reserve water, or little below for happy debris skimming, whichever you prefer. The only downside I've heard is that when the pool is getting thrashed, a bit of water will escape via the overflow. I think this is a very small amount of water, but some people keep a plug in the overflow except when going away.
 
Good suggestions. It looks tricky to try to drill a hole in the skimmer box, but one similar thought is to create a passive overflow by inserting a pipe just under the coping (which is not yet installed). This would require notching out some gunite on the top of the bond beam and inserting a pipe that would sit just below/under the coping. I'm not sure what kind of cover could be used inside the pool thought?
 
Most auto fillers have an overflow knock out and are the ideal spot for an overflow line (much better than in the skimmer or an unsightly drain at the waterline). Do you have one installed?
No auto fill

- - - Updated - - -

SP1019BA - Hayward (WG) - DRAIN GRATE, HAYWARD OEM WG

Here is one I found. I am sure there are others. I just did a Google search for "pool over flow grates". I bet there are color choices and designs.

I like the idea of you above idea!

Kim:kim:
That's a deck drain so not sure it would work. I'm starting to think I might be better off with a valve at the pad...seems like when you need to drain, you NEED TO DRAIN (like flash flood storms) and a passive drain isn't much help
 
:pth: :pth: :pth: Waterline overflows....

No offense intended to yours or any others but that type of overflow (inside the skimmer as well) is just not a good idea in my opinion. Every splash, surge, cannonball, etc sends perfectly good water down the drain. An overflow attached to the auto filler basin isn't subject to the surging and splashing but still drains the excess water after a good rain... all while remaining incognito :party:
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The skimmer definitely isn't an option but you can easily add a waterline tile drain or even an autofiller
Not a fan of auto filler in my situation. Neighbors water fill line burst last week. Water district requires high hazard backflow device which is 12" above ground. If you don't winterize it will burst, costly, etc. Waterline tile drain is still an option.
 
Then it sounds like you want the drain line at the pad. If that is what you want then go for it. I just want you to realize that most of the time you don't even know when you will need to run out and open it-work, sleeping, out of the house, etc. Just something to think about.


You do what works best for you and makes you happy! There is no wrong way really. Just many different ways. We each like the way ours is done (or not like me LOL).

Kim:kim:
 
Then it sounds like you want the drain line at the pad. If that is what you want then go for it. I just want you to realize that most of the time you don't even know when you will need to run out and open it-work, sleeping, out of the house, etc. Just something to think about.


You do what works best for you and makes you happy! There is no wrong way really. Just many different ways. We each like the way ours is done (or not like me LOL).

Kim:kim:
I'm still back and forth on this. I think an auto filler could be used as just an overflow drain as well?
 
Good suggestions. It looks tricky to try to drill a hole in the skimmer box, but one similar thought is to create a passive overflow by inserting a pipe just under the coping (which is not yet installed). This would require notching out some gunite on the top of the bond beam and inserting a pipe that would sit just below/under the coping. I'm not sure what kind of cover could be used inside the pool thought?

One of our friends in the neighborhood has a gravity overflow like you describe. The PB used a small grate (2"x3") set into the top of the waterline tile that feeds to a PVC pipe and out of their enclosure. In talking it through with them, it appears that it's come in handy during summer storms and keeps them from needing to manually drain the pool down. I agree and understand that there's a theoretical loss of water due to splashing/wave action but my suspicion is that it's a relatively small volume of water compared to the loss onto the deck surface from swimmers getting in/out as well as simple evaporation. FWIW and all that but we had our gravity overflow added into the back of the skimmer (there was a punch out for it). It's slightly above where you want the waterline to be (like one set in the tile should be) so I expect to lose very little water out of it. If it becomes a problem, it's simple to pop in an appropriately sized rubber plug or cap the end of the pipe.
 
In talking with my guy, he suggested to just leave a 1/2" or 3/4" pipe face exposed/installed and tile around this. This would be just below the coping. We are using 1x1" tile, so I suppose they could notch the tile to hide it. A grate would prevent debris/clogging, but be more of an eyesore. My latest thinking is to follow his recommendation. I can run the pipe over about 15 feet to the side of the yard and install a manual valve to allow me to shut it off when wanted (avoid splash out, etc). I'm also going to make sure I have a connection at the pad that I can connect a hose or backwash hose if need be to drain the pool (maybe need to drain every blue moon).
 
Quick follow-up, so I can also brag about my handy work :D..my guy never showed up to add the drain pipe. Tile/stone guy was coming yesterday to add waterproofing membrane for tile, so I did it myself. Good thing I asked for an angle grinder for my birthday. Diamond tip blade worked great and set it in Rapid Set mortar mix. 3/4" sch40 pipe. Took about 15 minutes, not including trip to Home Depot. Good weather yesterday, but of course it's drizzling this morning...hopefully the waterproofing membrane cured and the rain doesn't hurt it.

IMG_0256.jpg
IMG_3402.jpg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.