Help! Brand New SW Pool Just turned green

[Texas Splash]

If your water is beginning to turn to brown, that is a fairly good indication there is iron in the water - very common for a well. When chlorine is introduced to water with iron, it changes color and can begin to stain the pool surfaces if left that way for very long. When you go to the pool store to a water test, you can take a pool sample, but I also encourage you to take a sample from the source (hose) "before" chlorine is added as well.

It's a shame metal in water is such a pain in the neck, but as you said so well above .. "It is what it is". In some areas, that's all you have to use. Here's a few tips to try and help you with metals in water:
- Pre-filter as much as possible. Even though the fill has begun, you have more water to add, so try any pre-filtering like running the water through an intermediate container filled with absorbent material to catch the iron before it gets to the pool may help. Once your husband connects the hoses, you can also add some paper towels to the skimmer which may collect some iron while it is in that brown "precipitated" stage.
- Pre-filtering will only get so much. After that, you need to manage chemically. That means a relatively low FC level. That may be good for you since you have an SWG that usually runs with a higher CYA and lower FC level throughout the day.
- Also test and maintain pH on the low 7s (7.2-7.4) which may help.
- Prepare to purchase a sequestrant.

Sequestrant is a chemical that binds to the iron in the water so that it can't form stains or turn brown. Sequestrant breaks down slowly, so you need to add more regularly. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic "the Purple Stuff (SWG)" are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find other brands with similar products, some of which are noticeably less expensive. Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective.

- Last but certainly not least, that proper test kit is exceptionally important to you folks to ensure you can test the water at home at any time needed - accurately. Pool store testing is notoriously wrong, and so are test strips. Please keep that in mind.

My heart goes out to you two for your valiant efforts to try and beat the deadline for Friday. Just when we thought you had a simple algae issue, we find that your well may be the culprit. Tomorrow is another day. We'll be watching for your updates. Once you fill completely we'll assist with final chemical adjustments based on your SWG and see if we can help you keep the "brown" from getting too bad.

For future reference, here is the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page which you may find informative. Try to have an nice evening.

 

[DeadAquaRite]

That in your earlier pictures looks like iron to me. In 5 years of pressure washing, every single iron problem was a well.

Chlorine + iron = rust. Rust in water = brown.

 

[Silkartisan]

Yes , as I mentioned in my original post and a few subsequent posts we had ordered the recommended test kit before posting here. We are just waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I am assuming it tests for iron and that is why it will be so helpful to our situation specifically?

- Last but certainly not least, that proper test kit is exceptionally important to you folks to ensure you can test the water at home at any time needed - accurately. Pool store testing is notoriously wrong, and so are test strips. Please keep that in mind.

 

[kcindc]

The kit you have ordered is the best and most accurate way to maintain your pool. However, it only tests for FC, CC, PH, TA, CH and CYA. This kit is necessary to keep your pool free of algae and well balanced and keeping the levels (PH, CC, PH, TA, CH and CYA) were they need to be for a sanitary and comfortable pool. Testing (FC, CC, PH, TA, CH and CYA) is inaccurate using test strips and pool stores can be highly inaccurate and they generally use test strips test your water.

The kit will not test for metals. Metal is the only time we recommend that you go to the pool store to get your water tested.

 

[Texas Splash]

The kit will not test for metals. Metal is the only time we recommend that you go to the pool store to get your water tested.

That's true. While the pool store can sometimes mess-up that test as well, it's usually better than investing in a separate test kit just for iron/copper. When you know you have it - you have it. If you really want a separate test kit for iron/copper, there are some available like THIS ONE, but they can get expensive quickly.

We've had so much back & forth posts I couldn't recall if/when your good test kit was coming, but it will certainly help. In the meantime, stick close to the notes in post #61 above as you continue to fill your pool. Keep us posted on the condition of your water please. Have a nice day.

 

[elhsrh93]

Don't give up! We have high iron levels in our fill water also. I fought it all last year. Search Green to Brown and you can see all my filtering and efforts. Re-filled this summer and water turned again from iron. I don't remember the name of my thread this year, but I think you can search my user name and find it. I added a bottle of subsesqurant (sp? sorry) , which was only a temporary fix. We upgraded to a pump with a sand filter (which I think you already have) and after running the pump for about 48 hours (I think) our water cleared and it has been clear ever since.

So basically hang in there until your pool is full (using the above advice for adding bleach) and you can start running the filter. Hopefully that will be the answer for you, like it was us.

 

[Silkartisan]

Thanks so much. That was very helpful as we were feeling very discouraged.

Don't give up! We have high iron levels in our fill water also. I fought it all last year. Search Green to Brown and you can see all my filtering and efforts. Re-filled this summer and water turned again from iron. I don't remember the name of my thread this year, but I think you can search my user name and find it. I added a bottle of subsesqurant (sp? sorry) , which was only a temporary fix. We upgraded to a pump with a sand filter (which I think you already have) and after running the pump for about 48 hours (I think) our water cleared and it has been clear ever since.

So basically hang in there until your pool is full (using the above advice for adding bleach) and you can start running the filter. Hopefully that will be the answer for you, like it was us.

 

[elhsrh93]

Thanks so much. That was very helpful as we were feeling very discouraged.

You're Welcome! POP (pool owner patience)!

 

[elhsrh93]

Just a couple of more thoughts:

1. When you start your pump/sand filter, keep an eye on the PSI and water flow. The iron will clog up the filter quicker than expected and you will need to backwash and rinse (possibly multiple times until the water clears).
2. Give the filter at least 48 hours to see if it will clear the iron before adding salt. Then add salt and let it dissolve 24 hours, with the pump running, before starting the SWG (continue using bleach until the SWG is producing chlorine).

The experts can correct me if this doesn't sound right for your situation, but this is what I have experienced.

 

[Silkartisan]

I have been trying to get the pool math calculator working for me using the exact directions below. It will not output a quantity when I move mouse over "Add". It is set to Tricolor by default is that what I want it on? Does it work on a MAC?

Later when things settle down, I want you to try an experiment for me as follows:
- Click on the Poolmath calculator link in my sig below or from the Home Page tab
- Enter 2400 at the top where it says "Size _ Gallons"
- Just below that is the FC row. Enter "0" in the "NOW" block, then enter "3" in the "TARGET" block. Next to that there is a field titled "WEIGHT". Enter "8.25" in that area.

Now move your mouse arrow/cursor over that yellow area on the FC row. Where you see the small word "Add", it should say "11 oz", and at the same time when your mouse cursor is over that item, above it should say "1 cup, 3 ounces".

Hopefully you are able to duplicate those actions to use the calculator correctly. Let me know if you encounter any problems.

 

[Silkartisan]

So the pool is about 2" from being full on this second go round and the sand filter is on but the SWG is not. I am assuming we need to add the balance of required salt at this point and wait the recommended 24 hours before turning on the SWG?
Here are my latest test results. The TF -100 test has not arrived in the mail yet so I am using one kit with drops and another that is just strips.

Test with strip:
TC 2-3
FC 2-3
TA 120
PH 7.8
CYA between low and ideal

Test with drops:
FC 2.0
CC 2.0
PH 8.2
Alkalinaty 110

Since I can't get the pool math calculator to work on my Macbook as I mentioned in the above post I don't know how to figure out what to add next and in what amounts other than the balance of the salt to bring it up to 115 -120 lbs.

 

[Texas Splash]

- If you haven't added the liquid stabilizer yet, Poolmath (for 4,500 gallons) shows 109 ounces to go from zero to 70 (required for your SWG). You don't need the test kit for this. Once measured, you add it and assume it will meet that goal of 70.
- To increase FC from zero to 3 ppm, it only needs about 20 ounces (2.4 cups) of regular bleach.
- Ignore the TA for now
- pH would be better a bit lower. You can use muriatic acid poured very slowly and carefully near a return jet and also "swish" the water around to help mix it. NEVER add bleach and muriatic acid at the same time! I would recommend with metals in your water to keep your pH a bit low around 7.2-7.4 for now. That may help stabilize any chemical reactions.

- - - Updated - - -

If you did add stabilizer/conditioner (or anything else for that matter), tell me how much you added and I'll give you the numbers back of what your CYA should be.

 

[RonsPlc]

The pool Math calculator Does indeed work on a Mac... down at the bottom of the chart in it, there is a place to enter... Suggested Goal Levels... set that to troublefreepool.com ... from there you should be able to use it.

 

[Silkartisan]

Ok, thanks. That was missing from the directions I was given. Also you apparently can't have a comma in the number ex 4,545. So those things were making it not work every time I tried over the last couple of days. Also it is set to Tricolor by default is that what I want it on or do I need to change that? I don't see a field that says bleach?

The pool Math calculator Does indeed work on a Mac... down at the bottom of the chart in it, there is a place to enter... Suggested Goal Levels... set that to troublefreepool.com ... from there you should be able to use it.

 

[Texas Splash]

Ignore the tri-chlor portion. You are using strictly regular bleach. You should be looking at the top portion in that yellow FC row that shows to "Add X-amount ounces of "%" bleach", "jug size". The next row/sentence is for the powdered products.

 

[Silkartisan]

Yesterday (7/5) pool was 1/2 full and we added:
1/2 cup chlorine around noon and then 11 oz in evening
42 oz CYA
30 pounds of salt

Today 7/6 when pool was full and pump was running we added 90 lbs of salt to bring it up to 120 lbs

The tests I ran this afternoon showed the following numbers:
Test with strip:
TC 2-3
FC 2-3
TA 120
PH 7.8
CYA between low and ideal

Test with drops:
FC 2.0
CC 2.0
PH 8.2
Alkalinaty 110

- If you haven't added the liquid stabilizer yet, Poolmath (for 4,500 gallons) shows 109 ounces to go from zero to 70 (required for your SWG). You don't need the test kit for this. Once measured, you add it and assume it will meet that goal of 70.
- To increase FC from zero to 3 ppm, it only needs about 20 ounces (2.4 cups) of regular bleach.
- Ignore the TA for now
- pH would be better a bit lower. You can use muriatic acid poured very slowly and carefully near a return jet and also "swish" the water around to help mix it. NEVER add bleach and muriatic acid at the same time! I would recommend with metals in your water to keep your pH a bit low around 7.2-7.4 for now. That may help stabilize any chemical reactions.

- - - Updated - - -

If you did add stabilizer/conditioner (or anything else for that matter), tell me how much you added and I'll give you the numbers back of what your CYA should be.

 

[Texas Splash]

Very good. So we need you to add a couple things at this point:
- More stabilizer to increase CYA to "70" in preparation for your SWG. The previous 42 ounces only got you to about a CYA of 30, so now you can add another 62 ounces to increase CYA from 30 to 70. That will provide very good cover for your FC (bleach).
- Watch FC closely. The sun will try to take your FC rather quickly on these hot days. Try to never let the FC drop below 3. You can now also try to slowly increase FC a little more to the 4-5 range. Since your SWG is not on yet to make FC, you may need to manually add small amounts of bleach 2-3 times throughout the day to keep it steady (mimicking a SWG). The yellow-cap drop FC test would be better than the strips for FC testing.
- PH is still a little high. Adding 6-7 ounces of muriatic acid should help bring that down nicely.

 

[Texas Splash]

At this point, with your pool almost full, I want to re-cap our path forward:
- #1 priority is to avoid algae at all costs. The minute you get algae it means a "SLAM" which is a very high FC level which will make the metal in your water mad. :grrrr: So we always want FC in the water, just at a stable/lower amount - much like what your SWG will do for you.
- The CYA is elevated for that slow/steady FC produced by your SWG. Until you turn the SWG on, YOU will serve as a simulated SWG by adding bleach in smaller doses to the water more frequently throughout the day (morning, mid-day, evening). Not large amounts, just enough to keep your FC steady between 3-5 ppm to avoid algae.
- Eventually you'll keep the pH around the 7.5 mark, but for now I suggested 7.2-7.4 hoping it will help prevent additional reactions with the metal.

The more your pump runs, the more you filter which all-together we hope will slowly remove some of the iron - at least enough to where the brown/green tint goes away. The only two things missing from this very important process right now are your test kit (any day now) and perhaps using a sequestrant designed to help "bind" those metals and keep them from staining and messing-up the water.

So that's where my head is at. I hope this makes sense to the both of you as you continue on. I know it's been emotional there, but we want very badly to see you succeed soon and enjoy that pool the way it was designed. If you have any questions, please let us know.

 

[Silkartisan]

Ok, wow. Thanks for all the great info. Now please tell me if I did the calculation properly in the Pool Match calculator. According to the numbers I put into it, it said I should be adding 6 oz and 4 tsp of bleach. Is that correct? It doesn't seem like much but that is the number it gave me. Also for tomorrow what would be considered "small amounts of bleach during the day", 1/2 a cup bleach, less, more? Thanks.

Until you turn the SWG on, YOU will serve as a simulated SWG by adding bleach in smaller doses to the water more frequently throughout the day (morning, mid-day, evening). Not large amounts, just enough to keep your FC steady between 3-5 ppm to avoid algae.

 

[DeadAquaRite]

One point about the calculator. NaN means "Not a Number". It happens when a math operation is impossible (such as dividing by zero). Check all your values and defaults.