Remove the Unitherm Governor and test it in water to see exactly what temperature it opens at.
What temperature is stamped on the Unitherm Governor?
What temperature is stamped on the Unitherm Governor?
Harmonic noise from newly installed RayPak 366A NG
- Thread starter Crani07
- Start date
Figure 66. Unitherm Governor - Polymer
To test the operation of the Unitherm Governor - Polymer, place in hot water (over 110°F [43°C]) and watch for movement against spring.
If there is no movement, replace unit.
To test the operation of the Unitherm Governor - Polymer, place in hot water (over 110°F [43°C]) and watch for movement against spring.
If there is no movement, replace unit.
Raypak Unitherm Governor 105 F Degree for gas heaters with Capron plastic headers
Includes Gasket
The unitherm governor acts like a car thermostat to slow water down in the heater until it is warm enough to prevent condensation in the heat exchanger when pool water is below 75 degree F
Factory Original Part
Includes Gasket
The unitherm governor acts like a car thermostat to slow water down in the heater until it is warm enough to prevent condensation in the heat exchanger when pool water is below 75 degree F
Factory Original Part
- Mfg #: 006719F
The thermal regulator or Unitherm Governor is not very reliable lately and the parts seem to be poor quality.
If it does not open fully at 110 F, replace it.
If it does not open fully at 110 F, replace it.
This is the key information.
Everything points to a Unitherm Governor (aka Thermal Regulator) as the cause of the noise.
If it was something else, then the noise would still be there when the UG was removed.
These parts have become unreliable lately and they are not opening at the correct temperature.
If they open just a crack, then the water makes a whistling noise.
The part is pushed into place with a spring, so water can be forced past the part if there is enough pressure, which might be happening when the heater is on and the water gets hot.
Heater whining
My mastertemp 250 learned a new trick this year! :( When it's running, as in I think this is the point where the fan is on, but the heat isn't quite engaged yet, I hear a pretty loud sound from it. And when the heat is on, it's actually worse and more of a squealing. From reading around, it...
www.troublefreepool.com
Well the crew has been out here for hours. All gas is in spec including dynamic. No better. With the thermostat out no noise. We have tried 3 thermostats they all function based on water test. Open around 110 and start closing when water is colder. Everyone is at a loss. Have had it 6 weeks and still no heater. Any thoughts. Raypak tech line has really not been of any help except selling us thermostats.
Sounds like the flow through the heater is the problem. Maybe broken internal bypass, open external bypass, heater is plumbed in backwards that is causing the thermal regulator not to open all the way.
The system was flipped from right to left because of my pump configuration. They followed rapak directions for flipping. I have checked skimmer clear great suction, bottom drains clear. I opened sand filter which sand was replaced 2 years ago really nothing much on top.
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Maybe they made a mistake when they flipped it?
In any case, I would tell them to get it fixed or give you a new heater.
In any case, I would tell them to get it fixed or give you a new heater.
Tried that and they said I have to deal now with Raypak authorized warranty repair. Nobody within 90 miles and they won’t make the trip. So I’m just beginning to figure out a battle plan here. Kinda screwed now and ****** at $4500 sitting idle and no one cares.
Lol. I do appreciate that! Lots of helpful folks on this site. It’s helped me for years. I’m a hands on person so having someone else put in my heater was not easy and now I regret the decision.
I'm not sure how critical the UG is anyway.
Maybe ask Raypak if you are OK to operate without the UG.
However, I still worry that maybe they made a mistake when they flipped the system.
Maybe ask Raypak if you are OK to operate without the UG.
However, I still worry that maybe they made a mistake when they flipped the system.
Good question and I did ask and they said I should not. But the people in their tech/service Dept that the installers have access to are not very good. Had us buy wrong part, we’re at one point reading from the wrong manual and I’m the one that caught that no one else did. So that being said not sure what to believe. The people that the outside service people have access to have probably never seen a heater. They are not engineers etc. they just go through a check list, no logic involved.
On this model yes I can just need to remove header. So that’s next I guess. Just don’t want to remove without replacement parts. So guess I’ll order kit and probably just swap it out even if existing one looks good.
On a related note, I would never flip a heater.
I would plumb it as needed to avoid taking the heater apart as all it can do is lead to problems.
I would plumb it as needed to avoid taking the heater apart as all it can do is lead to problems.
