I learned that pool stores can hurt more than help. I have high copper, at 1.5 right now. Ive partially drained several times and now have 2 packs of CUlator in my skimmer. Is this enough? How long will it take to clear my pool, should I continue the partial drain and refill as opposed to using a sequester, which one is advised to use? Should I pour in several bottles of Jacks blue stuff even though I heard its just a temp and expensive solution that doesnt actually remove copper or did I hear wrong and if I use fiberfill stuff in my skimmer it will capture the sequestered copper? I wasted a lot of time and money listening to pool store opinions and am looking for tried and true alternatives. I contacted CUlator and was given 2 different opinions. One was to let their product work, the other was include jacks blue stuff. I called jacks and they said to use 4 bottles of jacks with the fiberclear. I read that jacks can actually suspend the removal by the Culator for 6 weeks. Please help clear up the confusion for me.
green pool, high copper questions
- Thread starter lilyjo
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,873
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
Yes, it's time to stop wasting money that's for sure. Copper is a tough one, and your best bet is to exchange water as much as needed to be sure you have minimal residual copper remaining (if any). Copper is just too difficult to filter and sequestrant potions get expensive quickly. Exchange water then start fresh by reviewing our Pool Care Basics page for long-term pool care. Sanitize the water with a salt water generator (SWG) or liquid chlorine only. Those are your two best options with no side effects. Of course proper testing is priority #1, so if you don't already have a TF-series test kit or Taylor -2006C test kit, be sure to get one ASAP. Also update your signature. See mine as an example.
If you have any questions let us know. Enjoy the forum.
Yes, it's time to stop wasting money that's for sure. Copper is a tough one, and your best bet is to exchange water as much as needed to be sure you have minimal residual copper remaining (if any). Copper is just too difficult to filter and sequestrant potions get expensive quickly. Exchange water then start fresh by reviewing our Pool Care Basics page for long-term pool care. Sanitize the water with a salt water generator (SWG) or liquid chlorine only. Those are your two best options with no side effects. Of course proper testing is priority #1, so if you don't already have a TF-series test kit or Taylor -2006C test kit, be sure to get one ASAP. Also update your signature. See mine as an example.If you have any questions let us know. Enjoy the forum.
Welcome to TFP!
Would you be able to post a picture of your water? A good visual can often help us get an idea of how severe a problem is and what direction to best point you in.
Would you be able to post a picture of your water? A good visual can often help us get an idea of how severe a problem is and what direction to best point you in.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,783
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
How did the copper get into the water?
Preventing that from reoccurring is the 1st step.
www.troublefreepool.com
Preventing that from reoccurring is the 1st step.
Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
My guess is my 20 year old pool heater , that has now been disconnected.How did the copper get into the water?
Preventing that from reoccurring is the 1st step.
Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading
I will try to figure out how to post pictures, thank you for the reply.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,873
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's a lot of green. Just to be sure your only issue is copper, do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit in which to post a full set of water test results?
Green water does not mean copper. Copper is usually dark blue or black and attaches to the pool surface. Your green water looks like iron in your pool to me. Post a complete set of test results and we can go about getting the iron out of your water. Also test your fill water (and) pool water for iron.......I believe that to be your issue.
Can you pull out the filter cartridge and show what it looks like before and after cleaning?
It also looks like there is algae as well as probably iron.
Can you post a full set of test results?
Can you post a full set of test results?
Big Boss at CUlator says there is no way that there could be algae with that high of copper content. Its maddening
You probably have iron and algae as the main problems.
Copper tests are highly unreliable.
There is probably copper in the water but it is not causing the water to be green.
You should get your own good test kit and take control of your water.
Copper tests are highly unreliable.
There is probably copper in the water but it is not causing the water to be green.
You should get your own good test kit and take control of your water.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,873
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Being new to TFP, we should let you know we almost never trust pool store testing. Many of their variables can be way off causing you to treat the water improperly. With the cost of chlorine getting so high, I would recommend exchanging a good amount of water. It will help to not only remove any residual metals, but also help to thin-out the algae that appears to be in there. In the meantime, be sure to have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C kit ready and start a SLAM Process once you've exchanged water and have one of those kits in hand.
You need to SLAM to get back on track.
Any copper will probably stain and you can address that later or maybe drain and refill if you can do that without damaging or floating the pool.
Pool Care Basics
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
PoolMath
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared
Note: Never drain the pool without making sure that it will not float.
Any copper will probably stain and you can address that later or maybe drain and refill if you can do that without damaging or floating the pool.
Pool Care Basics
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
PoolMath
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared
Note: Never drain the pool without making sure that it will not float.
We don’t generally believe pool store test results because they are almost universally wrong and unreliable. The real first step is to get your own FAS-DPD test kit and test the water yourself. If we believed the test results that show you have no chlorine in the water the green color water would be algae.