Going to SWG this year

ok, ordered the K1766 and found a post on TFP about the levels but I don't know about the salt. So, first I get my test kit, test for salinity and then get salt. However, I am not sure what numbers I should be looking for on the test and then convert to amount of salt to buy. Is there a sticky post on that?
 
Go to the settings wheel in the upper right corner of poolmath and enable/track salt. Then it'll come up as a regular tab on the main screen. Say you test a 1800 and want to get to 3200, plug them in and viola PM will tell you to buy six 40lb bags.

Pat wrote up his RJ-45 install Here
 
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Hey guys, I am about ready to install my SWG. I have the pool chemicals in range. I have the salt but have not put it in. I have the vertical kit all ready to glue.
My plan is this:
  1. Today I will put in the salt.
  2. Wait 24 hours
  3. Install the SWG
  4. Turn on the SWG
  5. Monitor the output - not entirely sure how to do this yet.
Do I need to wait 24 hours after i put in the salt or can i do 12 hours or 16?
 
I think the main thing is to just make sure the salt is dissolved. You don't want high concentration 'slugs' of very salty water going through the SWCG. You have a large pool, but salt dissolves pretty quickly if you can brush it around or get in the water and stir it up. If you check your salt level before adding, and again after you think it's all dissolved, you should get a good idea if it went up as much as you expected and it's essentially dissolved

That said - add the salt anytime - add it now! There's no harm running at 3000 ppm salt (or whatever your SWCG essentially needs) even while manually chlorinating your pool.
 
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Hey guys, I am about ready to install my SWG. I have the pool chemicals in range. I have the salt but have not put it in. I have the vertical kit all ready to glue.
My plan is this:
I fixed it for you👇
Today I will Test the current salt level

  • Wait 24 hours
  • Install the SWG <— You can do this anytime
  • After 24 hours test the salt level again then add what poolmath says if necessary

  • Wait 24 more hours if you had to add more then ->

  • Turn on the SWG
  • Monitor the output - not entirely sure how to do this yet. Overnight chlorine gain test (basically the opposite of an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Do I need to wait 24 hours after i put in the salt or can i do 12 hours or 16? For large additions (more than a bag or so) it’s best to wait 24 hours so you get an accurate retest & you don’t risk a slug of concentrated salt water frying your cell.
 
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  1. Today I will put in the salt.
  2. Wait 24 hours
  3. Install the SWG
  4. Turn on the SWG
  5. Monitor the output - not entirely sure how to do this yet.
Why wait to do the install? Install it first, or during. Doesn't matter.

You monitor the output with your FAS-DPD FC testing. What is your target FC for your CYA? Dose the pool with liquid chlorine to get to target FC. (SWCG not so good at raising FC, really good at maintaining). Spring in OK, you are likely consuming 2-3 daily FC. Use pool math effects of adding. Select SWG and your SWG model. Pick a % and run time that gets you 2.5FC production. Let 'er rip with that configuration. If FC rises, turn down the cell or reduce runtime. If FC falls, turn up the cell production or runtime.
 

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What do you guys recommend for running the pump? Do you run at a lower speed longer or a higher speed shorter? I have a variable speed pump with 4 timers. I have been running my pump 24/7 for the last several years but have it set to run at a higher speed a couple hours a day bc at the lowers speed the pump filter basket gets only half full a lot of times.
 
There's probably as many opinions as there are members here. It's highly subjective on the user, what the user is looking to do (heat / skim / run a cleaner/ etc) and also, what makes them sleep better at night.

I'm a slow and low guy, who would bump it up for anything that needed it for its runtime window.
 
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Ok, I glued all my pipe together and one side is 1/2 inch longer than the other. Is that close enough or should I hacksaw one end off, buy a new elbow, connector and a bit more length of pipe?

I am asking because I have a vertical installation and so the bottoms don't quite match up and I dont know if I will get a good seal?
 
What do you guys recommend for running the pump? Do you run at a lower speed longer or a higher speed shorter? I have a variable speed pump with 4 timers. I have been running my pump 24/7 for the last several years but have it set to run at a higher speed a couple hours a day bc at the lowers speed the pump filter basket gets only half full a lot of times.
You will need to run the pump at high enough rpms to engage the flow switch of your swg. Somewhere around 1200-1400 rpms for most does the trick. You want to make sure you’re 100rmps or so above what will activate it with a clean filter so that when it gets dirty & affects flow the swg will still operate. You may want to up it a tad more to also accomplish effective skimming. Ymmv.
Also be sure your skimmer’s weir doors are functioning properly for the most effective skimming.
Most have the goal to have an empty pump filter basket. Using hairnets or skimmer socks in the skimmer basket can help keep the pump basket & filter cleaner.
 
Ok, I glued all my pipe together and one side is 1/2 inch longer than the other. Is that close enough or should I hacksaw one end off, buy a new elbow, connector and a bit more length of pipe?

I am asking because I have a vertical installation and so the bottoms don't quite match up and I dont know if I will get a good seal?

A lot of this depends on the rest of your piping and how much distance/give there is. I'd recommend getting as close as you can to straight and true -- having constant offset stress isn't good, and every time you take the cell out to clean it will be hard to get it all back aligned and tightened. So if you're off I think it's worth fixing now instead of cursing later.
 
Well, Jmastron's words rang true and I redid the piping. I wanted to do it right and do it once. So I got it installed and let it cure for about 3 1/2 hours and then started running. The first night I had the pump running at 1800 rpm at 75% output and generated 2.5 ppm of Chlorine in 12 hrs.
That is great but it gives me a couple of questions:
1. If I want to run the pump to clean the water but don't need the chlorine is it fine to just turn off the SWG. This isn't something I will do regularly but probably will sometimes because my wife likes the waterfalls and we don't want mosquitos to visit. I am not talking about a winter cell thing, which I also might want.
2. I use the 80% of recommended of salt but I think my pool may be smaller than I thought because my SWG says I have salinity of 3500 and my test kit says 3800. Is this ok or should I try to dilute it some. I will lose it over the summer bc of the waterfalls and windy Oklahoma.
3. Is the recommended CYA 30 or does it just depend on the pump speed/runtime/SWG output combination.
4. I read something about it can't be too close to the heater. You can see from my third picture where the heater is, is this a problem. I use the heater about 10-15 times a year for the hot tub only.

Below you can see my work. Pardon the mess I did not clean up before I took the pictures.
SWG.jpgVerticalInstallation.jpgByHeater.jpg
 
1. If I want to run the pump to clean the water but don't need the chlorine is it fine to just turn off the SWG.
Yup. Turn on / off / up / down as necessary


2. I use the 80% of recommended of salt but I think my pool may be smaller than I thought because my SWG says I have salinity of 3500 and my test kit says 3800. Is this ok or should I try to dilute it some.
It's fine. It will dilute with rain eventually. It takes a while but there's no rush. 1 inch of rain is probably 1/55th (ish) of your pool volume, 1.8%. Salt, CYA and Calcium don't evaporate, they get left behind.
3. Is the recommended CYA 30 or does it just depend on the pump speed/runtime/SWG output combination.
The reccomended CYA for SWG is 70, 30 is for liquid chlorine. The SWG adds a little bit of FC over a long run cycle. It will burn off as quickly (slowly) as it's made with 30 CYA. With bleach you just dump a gallon in and spike it and it has all day to drift down.

OCLT before raising the CYA. Slam FC is 40% of CYA so you'd rather SLAM at 12 FC than 28 FC.
4. I read something about it can't be too close to the heater.
That's either outdated or you read about a tab feeder. My SWG was on a 90 directly from the heater and it lived its normal life.
 
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If the swg is happy & producing then you’re happy 😃 the two numbers will likely never match.
When you have acid additions pay attention to where you actually land to help dial in your volume calculation.
On that note- be sure you only add 1/2 of what poolmath says for cya, let it circulate for 24-48hrs then retest & go from there. You really don’t wanna overshoot that.

For the water features- you should run water through them daily anyway to chlorinate the lines & prevent them from getting stagnant, you have a vsp so running the pump basically around the clock at low rpms & keeping the swg percentage low somewhere around 15- 20% would probably be ideal. Running the pump faster doesn’t produce more fc.
 

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