First Time Using TF-Pro Salt - Some Grey Matter in Pool

Thank you, @PoolStored . First posting of 2550 was from the SWG, not Taylor. Friday's posting of 3800 was from Taylor. SWG showed 'Green' and 'Good' on Saturday. Maybe I messed up the test today (or Friday?). I'm going to retest w/ Taylor tomorrow and if I get the same reading of 2800 I'll add another few bags.

Pool Math says 3000 is ideal. I assume I should accept the Pentair posted ideal amount of 3600 and so 4 40lb bags will do it (checked via Pool Math).
Retested Salt today w/ Taylor and came to 3000. So I'm off to buy three 40lbs bags of salt.
 
You can always add 1 bag, retest next day, add 1 bag etc. just to be sure not to overdo it. If the cell is green and generating than you have time to dial it in per each bag

Just a thought
 
You can always add 1 bag, retest next day, add 1 bag etc. just to be sure not to overdo it. If the cell is green and generating than you have time to dial it in per each bag

Just a thought
This is what I've been doing, but I'll admit my patience is growing thin haha. Really just want the water to be dialed in so I can move on :rockon:
 
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I thought i wouldn’t have to add a Bag all summer and I just added a bag 3 months after fill… too much rain overflow is my only guess.

It’s not really set and forget it’s set and keep an eye on… imho
 
Getting closer to ideal ... SWG is happy and CH is finally good 90lbs later. TA doesn't seem to want to budge. Bumped SWG up from 50% to 75% to bump up TC.

TC - 1.5 (FC of 1.5, CC of 0)
TA - 110
CYA - 90
pH - 7.5
CH - 500
Salt - 3800
 
For reference, my IC works great at 2800. I aim for 3000 to 3200 because we start tasting the salt more after that. Just a little, but still. Once it's generating, I leave it be and test salt monthly, mainly because I'm bored and want to test something. If I see the salt under 3000, I'll dump a bag in to buy more time. If I don't catch it, the idiot light comes on and I add it then.

The early early spring was wet, and I needed a couple of bags on back to back to back weeks. Since then it's been dry as a bone and it's exactly where I left it. It will vary month to month, but over many years, you'll average adding salt once or twice a season in Buffalo. (after opening/balancing).
 
For reference, my IC works great at 2800. I aim for 3000 to 3200 because we start tasting the salt more after that. Just a little, but still. Once it's generating, I leave it be and test salt monthly, mainly because I'm bored and want to test something. If I see the salt under 3000, I'll dump a bag in to buy more time. If I don't catch it, the idiot light comes on and I add it then.

The early early spring was wet, and I needed a couple of bags on back to back to back weeks. Since then it's been dry as a bone and it's exactly where I left it. It will vary month to month, but over many years, you'll average adding salt once or twice a season in Buffalo. (after opening/balancing).
Thanks for chiming in ... we taste it a little but not as bad now as it was. I'm hopeful it's only a few bags here and there. Is it the same with CH? Guessing once the water is soft it doesn't get hard again. Maybe a 40lb bag at opening and that's it?

Guessing stablizer will need to be added here and there like the muractic acid?
 
The CYA, CH and Salt should all get diluted similarly. Let's say you pump 3 inches out twice due to the rain adding up. You gained 6 inches out of roughly 60 inches (average depth) so you will expect everything to be down about 10%. You may not even see the 9 CYA difference, and going from 500 CH to 450 won't be a big deal either, but you'll see the 300 ppm drop in salt. (200/400 depending which way it falls on the drops, plus margin of error of course).

So those 3 will fluctuate from rain and need an occasional tweak.

The others (FC, PH and TA) fluctuate on their own.
 
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All my levels are in ideal range, except FC. Not sure what I did, but my FC today is 20. SWG was @ 40% and pump running at 1900rpm for 24 hours. We have a lot of people in the pool each day and it's been really sunny so maybe the last 4 days of no use, plus cloudy, have caused FC to not burn off at the same rate it had?

My CYA is 90 so I'm still far below SLAM level of 35, but what else should I do? Is it safe to swim?

Right now I've bumped my SWG down to 1%. Pool is pretty full due to the rain.
 
It is safe to swim.

Like most anything, you tend to over control it when it's new to you.

1% for your SWG is probably a Typo but you need to be at about 20% or thereabouts

In Buffalo, A CYA of 60-70 is likely the best. You'll use slightly less chlorine and it will be easier to correct if needed.

All my levels are in ideal range
That always makes us cranky, old-timers cringe. We really would like to see current test numbers from your own testing.

Get your FC up in the suggested range. That'll be easy right now, painful if you get algae.
 

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My CYA is 90 so I'm still far below SLAM level of 35, but what else should I do?
Wait it out. Beverages help.
Is it safe to swim?
It's safe to swim between min and SLAM, so long as you can see bottom for swimmer rescue. (Doesn't apply today, repeating for future readers with possibly cloudy pools).
 
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It is safe to swim.

Like most anything, you tend to over control it when it's new to you.

1% for your SWG is probably a Typo but you need to be at about 20% or thereabouts

In Buffalo, A CYA of 60-70 is likely the best. You'll use slightly less chlorine and it will be easier to correct if needed.


That always makes us cranky, old-timers cringe. We really would like to see current test numbers from your own testing.

Get your FC up in the suggested range. That'll be easy right now, painful if you get algae.
Thanks and sorry! Here are my readings from this morning. 1% was not a typo ... just thought I'd lower SWG until FC goes way down?

FC - 20 (suggested is 4-12, oops)
TA - 100
CYA - 90
pH - 7.8 (adding muriatic acid today to drop this a little more ... want to be around 7.2)
CH - 500
Salt - 3600
Wait it out. Beverages help.

It's safe to swim between min and SLAM, so long as you can see bottom for swimmer rescue. (Doesn't apply today, repeating for future readers with possibly cloudy pools).
My beverage consumption is way up since the pool opened. My pool is crystal clear ... pool builder swung by and was impressed how my water looks. For whatever reason, lots of folks bring their water into Leslie's to be tested ... I guess they haven't found TFP!
 
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Switch to these and you will never have to clean one again...

Going to ask a dumb question here, lol. But, what does adding a hair net, or previously mentioned skimmer sock, really help with? It just seems like it would catch more at the skimmer itself and send along less "stuff" to the filter.? Seems like whether it's the filter itself, or the hairnet/skimmer sock picking up the "stuff", what difference does it make? I think a lightbulb needs to go off in my head :)
 
Thanks and sorry! Here are my readings from this morning. 1% was not a typo ... just thought I'd lower SWG until FC goes way down?

FC - 20 (suggested is 4-12, oops)
TA - 100
CYA - 90
pH - 7.8 (adding muriatic acid today to drop this a little more ... want to be around 7.2)
CH - 500
Salt - 3600

My beverage consumption is way up since the pool opened. My pool is crystal clear ... pool builder swung by and was impressed how my water looks. For whatever reason, lots of folks bring their water into Leslie's to be tested ... I guess they haven't found TFP!

You will definitely have to keep an eye on your pH and not let that get above 7.8 consistently, otherwise your CSI is going to get pretty positive (because of your 500 CH) and you might end up with noticeable Calcium Scaling on your plaster.
 
It just seems like it would catch more at the skimmer itself and send along less "stuff" to the filter.? Seems like whether it's the filter itself, or the hairnet/skimmer sock picking up the "stuff", what difference does it make?
Many like not having to clean the filter. My filter is huge and can go all year. Hair nets would need replacing every couple of days. To each their own. 🤷‍♂️
 
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Many like not having to clean the filter. My filter is huge and can go all year. Hair nets would need replacing every couple of days. To each their own. 🤷‍♂️
Ahhh gotcha. So it's moreso a convenience as skimmer socks and nets are easier to do a quick change than the filter. I get that. Thanks for the info!
 
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Going to ask a dumb question here, lol. But, what does adding a hair net, or previously mentioned skimmer sock, really help with? It just seems like it would catch more at the skimmer itself and send along less "stuff" to the filter.? Seems like whether it's the filter itself, or the hairnet/skimmer sock picking up the "stuff", what difference does it make? I think a lightbulb needs to go off in my head :)
I love your pool. Wish I went 40k instead of 28k. Learned a lot about pools AFTER mine was done haha.

For me, the net helps a ton. Easier to clean the skimmers vs brining them into the house and rinse them. The net also helps reduce the need to clean the pump filter.
You will definitely have to keep an eye on your pH and not let that get above 7.8 consistently, otherwise your CSI is going to get pretty positive (because of your 500 CH) and you might end up with noticeable Calcium Scaling on your plaster.
I do include this in my totals. Right now my CSI value is just .16, which is acceptable per PoolMath.
 
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I was on team bigger. So. :p

:ROFLMAO:
Having never had a pool before ... I tried hard to prevent scope creep. We came within a few $k of our max out of pocket so not sure I could have afforded bigger without a loan. No one has ever said the pool seems small, except me when the entire baseball team is over haha (or when I see my friends 40k).
 
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