Filter, DE and Algae Issues

ludachris008

Member
Nov 24, 2023
5
Houston
Pool - about 25K gallons below ground

A little back story, it was almost a year since I cleaned the DE filter and did not realize I needed to add DE to it in order to filter the algae out. So the pool became cloudy due to the algae not getting filtered out. So I added the required DE but it started coming back into the pool, there were a few tears and cracks in some of the filters.
Current pool status is a layer of DE and algae at the bottom, somewhat cloudy pool and algae forming on the walls and steps.

These are the steps I am currently doing, please tell me if I am on the correct track:
1. set the filter to waste and am hand vacuuming the bottom of the pool.
2. install the new filters (bought a new set) and add the required DE (first ensure the DE does not come back in the pool after some is added, if so then the filters were not the issue and there is a leak somewhere else)
3. once the DE is staying in the filter and enough has been added, shock or double shock the pool. Brush the entire pool and run the pumps for 24 hours.
4. Will most likely have to hand vacuum the pool again or twice.
5. Get water tested and add the required chemicals (should I do this before shocking to get the other chemicals balanced?)
6. Hopefully have a blue, clean pool again

Any feedback or help would be greatly appreciated.
 
008,

You, like a lot of people, do not really understand the purpose of a Filter..

By the time your filter starts capturing algae, you have already lost the algae war... :(

Filters are there to capture all the 'junk' that falls into your pool each day. Chemicals are what keeps your pool sanitized and algae free.

If you just maintain your FC (Chlorine) and your CYA (Stabilizer) in the proper relationship, you will never get algae.

See this chart... FC/CYA Levels

We'd be glad to get you pointed in the right direction.

Read this first... Pool Care Basics

Once you get algae, you need to follow our SLAM process...

Just adding pool store shock to your pool will kill some of the algae, but not all of it.. It will initially look fine, and then as the days go on the algae will just come back. This is why pool stores want you to add weekly doses of "shock"... It only just keeps the algae at bay and makes them richer.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
The filters have little, if anything, to do with your algae. Algae is a chemistry issue and will always need to be fixed with chemistry. Filters are not the cure for algae.

Pool Care Basics Archives Please read this thoroughly first. It will help you and prompt you to start asking questions about the correct methods to clear your algae.

You will need on of the test kits we suggest (Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared ) to get started, Plan on lot's of questions but there are folks here to help you 24/7
 
I still need to add DE to the new filters though correct? This time I will only add a small amount to see if it comes back in the pool.
The correct amount of DE must ALWAYS be added after the filter is cleaned or backwashed. The DE grids are not designed to filter. And if you run the grids without DE they may not be able to be cleaned and need replacement.

What model filter are we discussing?


How to determine the amount of DE required​

  • For hayward grid filters simply divide the filter's area in sq feet by 8 to get the # of lbs DE to add when filter is fully clean. For the bump filters it's not as linear (but is still very easy). All the models start "EC-'XY' (ie EC-50 - X=5, Y=0), use X as the # of lbs DE to add to a fully clean unit.
  • Other manufacturers have the owners add an extra 1/2 lb for clean start up
  • Pentair recommendation for an FNS60 60 sq ft filter of 6 lbs for a full charge (interesting that it is less than the same sized Hayward at 7.5 lbs) ... and then after backwash add only ~4.8 lbs.
  • Rule of thumb - 1 lb - 1.5 lb of DE for every 10 square feet of filter area for a clean filter and 80% of that after a backwash.
 
The correct amount of DE must ALWAYS be added after the filter is cleaned or backwashed. The DE grids are not designed to filter. And if you run the grids without DE they may not be able to be cleaned and need replacement.

What model filter are we discussing?


How to determine the amount of DE required​

  • For hayward grid filters simply divide the filter's area in sq feet by 8 to get the # of lbs DE to add when filter is fully clean. For the bump filters it's not as linear (but is still very easy). All the models start "EC-'XY' (ie EC-50 - X=5, Y=0), use X as the # of lbs DE to add to a fully clean unit.
  • Other manufacturers have the owners add an extra 1/2 lb for clean start up
  • Pentair recommendation for an FNS60 60 sq ft filter of 6 lbs for a full charge (interesting that it is less than the same sized Hayward at 7.5 lbs) ... and then after backwash add only ~4.8 lbs.
  • Rule of thumb - 1 lb - 1.5 lb of DE for every 10 square feet of filter area for a clean filter and 80% of that after a backwash.
It is the grid system, 7-8 filters that form a fan.
 
The filters have little, if anything, to do with your algae. Algae is a chemistry issue and will always need to be fixed with chemistry. Filters are not the cure for algae.

Pool Care Basics Archives Please read this thoroughly first. It will help you and prompt you to start asking questions about the correct methods to clear your algae.

You will need on of the test kits we suggest (Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared ) to get started, Plan on lot's of questions but there are folks here to help you 24/7
Ok I understand now that the filter does not take care of algae. I have had the pool in great condition for 6 months and it wasn't until I cleaned the DE filter and tried to replace the DE that it went all to heck :)
 
it wasn't until I cleaned the DE filter and tried to replace the DE that it went all to heck :)
It could totally be a coincidence that what had been spiraling out of control finally lost control about the time you messed with the filter.

How do you test the water ?
What is your preferred sanitization method ?
How often do you add it ?


And Welcome to TFP !!! We got you now. This is what our pools look like.How Clear is TFP Clear?. Nothing makes us happier than adding a new member to the club.
 
It could totally be a coincidence that what had been spiraling out of control finally lost control about the time you messed with the filter.

How do you test the water ?
What is your preferred sanitization method ?
How often do you add it ?


And Welcome to TFP !!! We got you now. This is what our pools look like.How Clear is TFP Clear?. Nothing makes us happier than adding a new member to the club.
I typically take samples to Leslie's pool once every two weeks.
I was shocking the pool whenever I saw algae starting to form and I have a floating thing (we call bob) and put 2-3 of the chlorine pucks in it at all times

Your pool looks amazing. I dropped the pool cleaning company in March mainly because any major things that had to be done, I did myself. Also I found my self brushing the pool every other day so figured why not take care of it myself. Again, was great for about 6 months until this happened.

I figure I will try to get as much of the DE off the bottom by vacuuming to waste. Then I will change the filters to the new ones and then get the chemicals in check. Should I get the pool back to blue before adding the DE or add DE first?
 
Should I get the pool back to blue before adding the DE or add DE first?

Did you read post #5?

DE must ALWAYS be in the filter at the correct amount when the pump is running and filtering.
 

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I typically take samples to Leslie's pool once every two weeks.
I was shocking the pool whenever I saw algae starting to form and I have a floating thing (we call bob) and put 2-3 of the chlorine pucks in it at all times
Ok. It's a miracle you made it 6 months. :)

We'll get to the why in due time, but for now you need your own test kit to take back control of your pool. We use Taylor drop based kits here, and well I might add. Here's the skinny on the choices :

So the test kits fall into 2 price points.

K2006 : too small
TF100 : 2.7X the supplies
-------------------------------
K2006*C* : too much TA, CH and not enough FC, CYA

TFpro : sized better for how we do things
*fancy case
*includes $48 stirring device

Either tftestkits.net option is hands down a better value than the Taylor option. Both kits were created with our way of doing things in mind, from Taylor supplies.

Either TF kit can be bought in a salt version which adds the $30 salt kit for $20, making them even better deals versus the Taylor equivalent, plus a K1766 salt kit.
 
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