Draining and bringing down the waterline?

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Double check your connections. Look on the back side (clear side) of the connectors Are the wires fully seated in their connectors? Are the buttons on the connectors fully depressed and piercing both wires in the connectors? 4 wire switch to 4 wire cell shouldn’t have any compatibility concerns
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@Lake Placid so I went old-school and stripped/twisted wires of the same color and put some insulation tape. No luck yet, I'll try this exercise again tomorrow just in case.

Have you verified your flow in the pool at the returns feels strong like normal and nothing is actually slowing the flow low enough to not allow the switch to fully close?
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When I opened the old flow switch, there was definite flow. Also I can see the water swirling in the filter pump thingy as well as in the skimmer.
 
tsar said:
@Lake Placid so I went old-school and stripped/twisted wires of the same color and put some insulation tape. No luck yet, I'll try this exercise again tomorrow just in case.


When I opened the old flow switch, there was definite flow. Also I can see the water swirling in the filter pump thingy as well as in the skimmer.
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Good call on twisting the connections….if it still isn’t working, test if this switch is toast by reconnecting the red/black wires on the cell side again. If the flow light goes green and it starts producing you know you’ve got a bum switch.
 
@Lake Placid - any other suggestions? if nothing, I guess I have no choice but to call a pool tech at this point. I'm thinking of ordering another flow switch see if that works, and if not, get a new salt water chlorine generator (as I see no other choice). Let me know if you know of any other suggestions.

Also please do let me know what salt water chlorine generator would you folks suggest as a replacement of the one I currently have?
 
All indications point to a bad flow switch which is odd because it’s new…but its not beyond the realm of possibility that it’s bad out of the box. The IC40 in all respects is a good cell and sized right for your pool if you’d opt to replace the entire unit going forward. Your setup is already in place for a plug and play replacement. I’d just replace it should you decide that’s your final option.
 

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Possibly Sounds like a flow issue. What’s the pressure of your filter vs clean pressure? Check pump strainer basket for obstructions as well as the skimmer basket. How long from a good flow light to the flow error light?
 
The pump strainer basket is the round housing at the front of your pump. I can’t recall, did you ever backwash/clean your filter since the algae bloom was cleaned up?78C38888-36EC-4DE1-8681-D1806C360058.jpeg
 
@Lake Placid, @PoolStored
Based on a little bit from #86 - Draining and bringing down the waterline?

I just backwashed - read, turned the valve to backwash position (5 seconds at best), and turned the orange long valve to on, I then put it back in filter mode, with the valve back in the original position, and wow the flow is so much stronger, the pressure has also gone down to 13 from 28. The way I see it, I've never seen the pool pressure this high, almost like magic :p
I haven't backwashed yet, as I mentioned earlier, and that might be the entire problem here.

Follow up questions:
1. How long should I backwash?
2. Did I do it correctly? There is a spigot at the bottom if you remember, do I need to turn that on when backwashing?
3. What else am I supposed to do after backwashing? Do I do backwash, then rinse etc.?
 
Ok I haven’t looked at your filter, but generally you just bumped it, you need to perform a full backwash.

what model of filter do you have? This will help us know how much DE you need to recharge after the backwash.
You will also need to fully clean the de separator BEFORE you backwash. Then you will clean it again after the backwash.

To backwash you would move the multiport valve to backwash for approximately 2-3 minutes. If you have a sightglass you backwash until the water runs clear through the sightglass. After the backwash you then move the valve to rinse for about 30 seconds to a minute. Then you will return the the valve to filter mode. Once you are in filter mode you add DE in the skimmer. To know how much DE to add for this we need to know your filter specs. Usually you will add 80% of the clean charge amount for a recharge.

A couple of pointers: always turn off the pump when moving the multiport valve. Move the valve the same direction each time (usually clockwise). Don’t breathe the dry DE when adding it to the skimmer on the recharge. When recharging, add the DE back a scoop at a time and wait for it to dissolve/dissapear in the skimmer before adding the next scoop. (Do you have a de scoop? It looks like an old style hospital pitcher, or a plastic quart jug with a handle and will have a line or markings that tell you where 1 pound is on the container.)
 
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You will need to open the orange handle valve to the separator when backwashing, and rinsing and then close it after you’re done……before returning to filter mode. You don’t need to open the spigot, that is only for draining down water.
 
If you have a sightglass it’s likely on the side of the multiport valve. It will look like a clear glass bubble and water will flow through it when you backwash, rinse, or run the filter on waste.
 

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