Draining and bringing down the waterline?

[tsar]

This might be a strange question, I am trying to figure out the the three way valve here in my pool's plumbing, as well as how to bring down the waterline a bit after a recent thunderstorm.
I am attaching a 3 way valve, which is currently pointing to the pump, and the other two ends are underground. So curious what they are.



Additionally, I have an, sm 20-2 valve, which I assume could possibly be used to drain a bit of water and bring down the waterline, but I'm not sure of it's function either. Any guidance on how to go about reducing this would be really helpful...

 

[Texas Splash]

You have a DE filter with a multiport valve (MPV). On the MPV you see a selection for WASTE that will allow water to bypass the filter and go straight to the lawn, street, or wherever your WASTE line goes to. That is convenient when vacuuming junk out of the pool or simply lowering the water level.

As for that black 3-way valve in the back at the top of those PVC lines, it controls where you pull water from at the pool. One line coming up is probably for skimmer, and the other is probably for main drain. Then with the valve you control how much flow you want for either suction source to go to the pump. See example below. It's common to have most suction coming from the skimmer on a regular basis to help skim the water's surface for debris, but you can experiment.

 

[tsar]

You have a DE filter with a multiport valve (MPV). On the MPV you see a selection for WASTE that will allow water to bypass the filter and go straight to the lawn, street, or wherever your WASTE line goes to. That is convenient when vacuuming junk out of the pool or simply lowering the water level.

As for that black 3-way valve in the back at the top of those PVC lines, it controls where you pull water from at the pool. One line coming up is probably for skimmer, and the other is probably for main drain. Then with the valve you control how much flow you want for either suction source to go to the pump. See example below. It's common to have most suction coming from the skimmer on a regular basis to help skim the water's surface for debris, but you can experiment.

That's awesome detail thank you so much,

1. I think I can identify the skimmer line, since I see skimmer motion increasing when it's to the left. The valve currently points to the center line going to the pump. I assume this is the position it should be normally be at for running the pump on a daily basis?

2. The one to the right I assume should be the main drain as you mentioned, when should I use this?

3.
> On the MPV you see a selection for WASTE that will allow water to bypass the filter and go straight to the lawn, street, or wherever your WASTE line goes to. That is convenient when vacuuming junk out of the pool or simply lowering the water level.

I tried doing this, first of all I can't find out where the waste line goes to, or if anything is happening at all. I suspect the waste line might be blocked or has another valve or something. Basically i put the MPV on waste, and there seems to be no drop in the waterline, I can't see any action around the drain either. Any suggestions?

 

[PoolStored]

Any suggestions?

Tsar! Yeah, I have a sump pump I use to drain the pool after rain and in prep for winter. Saves the wear and tear on the pump. You can fix up a threaded PVC extension for the sump pump, attach a hose, put the sump in a bucket and put it in the pool to drain.

 

[Texas Splash]

Many people place their valves so that most of the water pulls from the skimmer(s) and just a little from the drain. That's because people usually want surface debris to go to the skimmer quickly. As for your waste line, you can try to post a couple more pics of the MPV and where the waste line goes to. Perhaps it was plumbed into the ground to some other waste line which is why you don't see water exiting anywhere?

 

[tsar]

@Texas Splash - added a fe more photos to show the pump/filter and plumbing.

 

[tsar]

Tsar! Yeah, I have a sump pump I use to drain the pool after rain and in prep for winter. Saves the wear and tear on the pump. You can fix up a threaded PVC extension for the sump pump, attach a hose, put the sump in a bucket and put it in the pool to drain.

Is saving wear and tear for occasionally reducing the waterline worth not using the regular pump. AFAICT the regular pump runs for 6 or so hours every day. I assume reducing the waterline would be much faster?

 

[Texas Splash]

That's interesting. Your DE filter waste line goes into another (cartridge) filter? Not sure why that done t hat way. But that red handle valve is closed (sideways). At the bottom of that line is a red (round) handled gate valve, but I can't tell from teh angle if it's a spigot to allow water out.

Some folks prefer to not use the main pool pump to exchange/lower water. IMO, if the pump is going to be on anyways (normally filtering) I don't see an issue running on low speed to waste as long as you don't lose prime to the pump and/or let it run dry. But your set-up is a bit unusual to me with that waste line. I can't quite see where it's going at the bottom there by the cartridge filter. Maybe experiment with those two red handle valves.

 

[tsar]

> Your DE filter waste line goes into another (cartridge) filter?
@Texas Splash - It goes into a "DE Separation Tank" based on google - "The separation tank, found on many systems, is used to backwash a DE filter. The job of the separation tank is to separate the DE and filter dirt from the water while it is being backwashed."

> But that red handle valve is closed (sideways). At the bottom of that line is a red (round) handled gate valve, but I can't tell from teh angle if it's a spigot to allow water out.
Yep there is a spigot to allow water to come out, I did notice that as well.

> Maybe experiment with those two red handle valves.
Do you know how to open the red handle valves? Do they need to be pulled up and then rotated? I wanted to make sure before I apply too much pressure, cause it doesn't seem to budge.

 

[tsar]

@Texas Splash - Also is it safe to keep the 3 way valve to have it go all the way to pull from the skimmer? Only when it's all the way there it seems like the skimmer is actually working. I wonder if the lack of motion there has anything to do with the waterline. How much should the waterline actually be?

 

[Lake Placid]

Separation tank allows the collection of DE during backwash, while sending treated water back to the pool for water conservation. Where does the discharge pipe from your separation tank go. Can you follow it? Based on the setup - the orange valve would need to be opened and then the gate valve opened to actually bleed off water.

You can pull 100% of your water from the skimmer, you just don’t want the level to fall too low and the pump lose prime/ suck air. Traditional full water line is a level that is mid throat of the skimmer, or halfway up the square opening.

Why are the lights red on your salt cell in the pic? No flow cutoff?

 

[Texas Splash]

Separation tank. Completely blanked that out. Thanks for the catch.

 

[Lake Placid]

Separation tank. Completely blanked that out. Thanks for the catch.

As much insight and knowledge you’re dispensing, you‘re allowed a brain fart on occasion.

 

[rcs29]

@Texas Splash - Also is it safe to keep the 3 way valve to have it go all the way to pull from the skimmer? Only when it's all the way there it seems like the skimmer is actually working. I wonder if the lack of motion there has anything to do with the waterline. How much should the waterline actually be?

I leave my main drain like 98% shut and the skimmer line is pulling that 98%. Technically you don't even need a main drain is my understanding. So yes it's safe

 

[tsar]

>Why are the lights red on your salt cell in the pic? No flow cutoff?
Could this be because the pool doesn't have enough salt/chemicals? - Some backstory- Just bought this house, and got the pool opened from someone who told me to get chemicals from the store after getting the water tested, which I did get (250 or so lbs of salt was a shocker!). There was a big thunderstorm, so here is me trying to figure out how to reduce the waterline before putting in the salt/chemicals.

The pool guy isn't picking up the phone or I would have someone who knows this stuff doing it for the very first time...

@Lake Placid , @Texas Splash
>Do you know how to open the red handle valves? Do they need to be pulled up and then rotated? I wanted to make sure before I apply too much pressure, cause it doesn't seem to budge.

 

[tsar]

nvm was trying to move it the wrong way... works it does drain with both of them on.. I guess I need a hose to make sure it drains out to the road.

 

[Lake Placid]

Nice job. The top Red light is a low salt indicator. This light will trigger when the censor in the cell detects salt below 2800 ppm. At what it detects as below 2600 ppm salt the cell will stop producing. This is probably why the no flow light is lit up red as well, or the flow switch isn't detecting adequate water flow. You need to test for salt in your water to bring it up to a level where the SWG will produce, or assist in diagnosis of the cell if you find out there is adequate salt content in the water.

You said you’ve had rain. This could dilute down your water depending on how much rain and what your original salinity was.

 

[tsar]

@Lake Placid Thanks! that makes sense
I need to add all the salt, haven't done that yet, so salinity is definitely low.

Should I stop running the filter, its been running the filter and SWG (I assume), for a week now (daily 6-7 hrs) since it's been opened. We were waiting for a few different things including a vacuum before putting all the chemicals/salt in.

 

[Texas Splash]

I know we've been focusing on the equipment pad and how to move water, but as you get closer to adjusting chemicals, be sure you have the proper test kits. I scanned the posts above (and your signature) but didn't see mention of any home testing, just a pool store. So be sure you have a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C for your normal pool chemical levels, and also a Taylor K-1766 to test the salt level. The last thing you want is to get the water level where you want it only to add too much salt or something that requires another dumping of water. Home testing with the right test kit is extremely important.

 

[Lake Placid]

No you need to run it and importantly get some chlorine in the pool before you have a swamp on your hands. Do you know how long the SWG hasn’t been functioning? Lot’s of good people here to help you take control of your pool. Are you getting a test kit? I don’t see one in your signature. It’s the most important tool you can get!

Edited to add: @Texas Splash beat me too it.