I guess this is a dumb question
The only dumb question is one not asked, and it will cause you more problems.

Of course, we will help with the new problems also, but it's in all of our best interests for you to ask anytime you are unsure. :)

Download and set up PM with your info as said above. Pool Math is going to be your best friend.
 
but I don't find anything there about how to figure out parts per million.
OK gotcha !!!

The other way from the post above is to click the FC tab. Set FC to 0 and 5 and select the strength of the bleach you will use. At the bottom it says to add XX ounces / gallons/ etc
 
The other way from the post above is to click the FC tab. Set FC to 0 and 5 and select the strength of the bleach you will use. At the bottom it says to add XX ounces / gallons/ etc
I see. This way it shows what to add to reach the final target, vs. the "effects of adding" which shows how much it raises the level the pool already has. Good info.
 
This way it shows what to add to reach the final target, vs. the "effects of adding" which shows how much it raises the level the pool already has. Good info.
We are split down the middle with our preferences. Half a dozen or six...... and nobody is wrong. (y)
 
Meh...Read and prepare.


Here are some testing tips that may help you conserve reagents and achieve accurate results...
  • Get a sample bottle with a dropper style tip. Leslie's has nice ones they'll give you for free.
  • Always rinse sample vials with pool water before use. With small sample size, even a bit of fresh tap water can skew results
  • When using droppers, keep the bottle vertical. Squeeze only enough to allow the drops to just fall off the tip
  • Go slow between drops (about 1 second between) and watch closely for color changes. On most tests, color hues are less important than determining the "endpoint."
  • The endpoint for most "count the drops" type tests is when there is no more color change. Keep adding drops until there is no color change. Don't count the last drop that results in no color change
  • For the first few tests, wipe the tip of the R-0009 TA bottle between each drop with a damp rag to eliminate static charge
  • Use 10 mL sample size for FC/CC test (R-0870/R-0871/R-0003 reagents)
  • Use 25 mL sample for TA test
  • Use 10 mL sample for CH test
  • Try to develop a routine and stick with it. Do the tests the same way each time.
Hi this is the first time I heard to rinse the sample bottle with pool water, I have been using my kitchen tap water 🤷‍♀️
 
Ugh, I should have done more research on the cal-hypo tablets...raises calcium, etc.! Cancelling my order! I don't have a SWG so I guess I am stuck with liquid chlorine which is fine but what happens when no CYA is being introduced at all? If CYA never goes away even with evaporation, do I even need to worry about it? (Leslie's last test said my CYA is at 100.)

This is where I wonder if I should just use liquid PLUS an occasional tablet and/or shock to get the best balance of CYA. It's so confusing.
Up here in the northeast, for whatever reasons, the CYA dissipates over the winter. Since we have a very short season ( first of June to labor day),I use the pucks till I get the CYA where I want it, then I switch to liquid chlorine. Not sure you have that luxury in Texas. Your CYA should remain relatively stable unless you have high heat, a LOT of rain, a leak where you're regularly replacing significant water. For me, some years, there is enough rain fall that I can use the pucks all season because of dilution and overflow. Not sure now that my liner had been replaced that will continue. I'm now having to switch to liquid chlorine for the rest of the season. The small Walmart hugs of 7.5% are very easy to handle but the price has skyrocketed so I may go to the 5 gallon jugs from the our local do it center. Much cheaper and busy place so chlorine is fresh. But, when full, rather cumbersome to manage.
 

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Up here in the northeast, for whatever reasons, the CYA dissipates over the winter.
Natural degrading of about 5ppm monthly is unnoticeable during the season, but when you walk away for 6 months, it's everything in a LC pool and almost half in a SWG pool.

If you don't cover, or use a mesh cover, the 3 ft of off season rain is over half a water exchange in ingrounds and 3/4 in above grounds.
 
So I got the test kit and the Smart Stir thing. No instructions with the Smart Stir. What is the small plastic "X" for? How long do I keep it on? I'm a little disappointed, it looks kinda cheap and is already coming apart on one side. Buyer's remorse...
 
Fill the vial to the appropriate amount, put the X or pill (depending on model) in the vial and press either button. Dump, rinse the vial/X and turn off unit when test complete.
I'm a little disappointed, it looks kinda cheap and is already coming apart on one side.
Weird. Got any pics ?
 
Fill the vial to the appropriate amount, put the X or pill (depending on model) in the vial and press either button. Dump, rinse the vial/X and turn off unit when test complete.
So it will turn off by itself? What is the difference between the light bulb button and the power button? .... The "label" with the buttons on it is lifting off on one side, out of the box. Just feels cheap and worth about $5 but if it works, it works.
 
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^^^ What @Newdude said ^^^
The X or pill will spin and stir your test solution when the SmartStir is turned on so that you don't have to stop and mix it between drops. The light makes it easier to see the color changes during your testing. It really does make things a lot easier.
 
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I even use the speedstir to mix the CYA test, fill the squirt bottle as directed, to the bottom of the label with pool water, then to the top with R13, pour the contents into the grad cylinder, drop in the magnet. It ‘s a slow reaction, so mix for a minute ‘til it shuts off, let it rest for a minute, stir again for a minute. That’s 3 minutes. Then put it back into the squirt bottle and run the dot test.
 
@Mike Stevens ...if you haven't plowed through the many "Pool School" articles yet I would suggest that you read "CYA – Cyanuric Acid Test" article...it is the one test that many of us have a hard time getting comfortable reading correctly. In particular take a look at the "this photo" link in the article to see what you are looking for when you are doing the CYA reading.
 

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