So the TS-100 kit is $83 and you have to get to $100 for free shipping (or else it's $13 shipping). So what reagent(s) am I likely to use up first that I can buy to get to $100?
CYA is a CURSE!
- Thread starter Mike Stevens
- Start date
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,473
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Ordered the TS-100 and Smart Stir! Now I just hope I don't screw it up.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,473
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Meh...Read and prepare.
Extended Test Kit Directions Archives
www.troublefreepool.com
Here are some testing tips that may help you conserve reagents and achieve accurate results...
- Get a sample bottle with a dropper style tip. Leslie's has nice ones they'll give you for free.
- Always rinse sample vials with pool water before use. With small sample size, even a bit of fresh tap water can skew results
- When using droppers, keep the bottle vertical. Squeeze only enough to allow the drops to just fall off the tip
- Go slow between drops (about 1 second between) and watch closely for color changes. On most tests, color hues are less important than determining the "endpoint."
- The endpoint for most "count the drops" type tests is when there is no more color change. Keep adding drops until there is no color change. Don't count the last drop that results in no color change
- For the first few tests, wipe the tip of the R-0009 TA bottle between each drop with a damp rag to eliminate static charge
- Use 10 mL sample size for FC/CC test (R-0870/R-0871/R-0003 reagents)
- Use 25 mL sample for TA test
- Use 10 mL sample for CH test
- Try to develop a routine and stick with it. Do the tests the same way each time.
Thanks again for all the comments! I am sure I will have more questions once I try the test kit.
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 1,615
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
For our area; a SWCG is almost a must. It'll run 10 months out of the year, most years, doing all the heavy lifting for you. You'll just need to mantain pH and watch TA if not on city water.
Related question in relation to trying to reduce CYA, can a cal-hypo shock (such as this in powder form to mix with water then add to pool water) be used in addition to the occasional "regular" puck style 3" tabs that contain CYA? I have a lot of Leslie's triclor tablets that I bought before I realized they raised my CYA levels but I hate to just not ever use them--they were expensive!
DrewLG
Gold Supporter
Cal-Hypo adds calcium the way trichlor adds CYA. The accumulation isn't as rapid, but it will eventually accumulate to the point that you'll need to do a partial drain or water exchange. Unless your pool needs calcium it's best to use only liquid chlorine or an SWCG.
An important note: If you have trichlor and cal-hypo, you MUST NOT allow them to come into contact with each other. Don't even put one into a container that ever held the other. Cal-hypo is a very strong oxidizer and will react violently with other chemicals:
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,088
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Save the tabs for vacation or when your cya can stand the increase. Be aware that Trichlor increases cya, fc, salt, & lowers ph.
They will last indefinitely if they remain dry.
Using cal hypo increases ch along with increasing fc- you may or may not be able to withstand the increase with your current level.
Liquid chlorine only adds fc & salt. It affects the least parameters.
To answer your question- adding cal hypo directly to the pool while u have trichlor in the inline chlorinator should be fine.
You should however, never let them come into contact in their dry form or use the same chlorinator for them. But once they are each individually mixed in the pool they are fine.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,374
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
My TF100 case is over 7 years old and it's held up fine. I store it in the laundry room cabinet vertically. If you place the reagent bottles all one direction, it's easy to store vertically with the caps facing up. I did move the dividers around and also store the speed stir in the kit box. The small blue K1000 kit is stored outside of the TF100 box but right next to it.
Storing inside - in a climate controlled environment - is best for reagent longevity. The only test you have to do outside is the CYA test, but can mix it up inside and then go outside to do the actual test. The rest can be accurately done at the kitchen sink/counter. Don't store/leave the test kit or reagents outside. This applies to the Taylor or the TF kit.
Storing inside - in a climate controlled environment - is best for reagent longevity. The only test you have to do outside is the CYA test, but can mix it up inside and then go outside to do the actual test. The rest can be accurately done at the kitchen sink/counter. Don't store/leave the test kit or reagents outside. This applies to the Taylor or the TF kit.
Save them for over the winter when the pool isn't running. Since you have a fiberglass pool, I assume you don't drain it.
Keep a few in a floater. My CYA is almost always back down to nothing each spring when I open back up and my water is green. I'm gonna do this this year and see what happens.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,088
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Do u close after pool temp is below mid 60’s & open before pool temp gets above mid 60’s?
As a fellow new user in the last week most of the tests are stupid simple to do. Cya can be a bit tricky (I’m still trying to get it) the fc drop test with a speedstir is easier than trying to decipher what shade you are looking at on a test strip
I base it more upon the weather, as my pool is heated. I shut it down as soon as the temps get uncomfortable for swimming, usually mid-Sept. Then open back up around April.
But even when the water is below 60, it gets nasty. I have a lot of trees around my pool and I don't scoop the leaves out regularly, so some settle to the bottom over the winter.
This was Mar 17 the this year
And April 5th after a SLAM
It took 18-20 gallons of chlorine to clear it up this year. I also added 14 lbs of stabilizer. I'm hoping to cut that back next year by floating some tabs all winter.
But even when the water is below 60, it gets nasty. I have a lot of trees around my pool and I don't scoop the leaves out regularly, so some settle to the bottom over the winter.
This was Mar 17 the this year
And April 5th after a SLAM
It took 18-20 gallons of chlorine to clear it up this year. I also added 14 lbs of stabilizer. I'm hoping to cut that back next year by floating some tabs all winter.
DrewLG
Gold Supporter
For practice, you can get a 50ppm calibrated solution from tftestkits.net: R-7065 CYA Standard 50ppm (2oz). Do the CYA test with it instead of pool water. What you see when you fill the CYA test tube to the "50" mark (or "40" mark, depending on your test procedure) is what you should look for when you do real tests.
@Mike Stevens if your test kit hasn't shipped yet, I'd recommend adding the CYA standard solution to your order.
That’s awesome I will add that to my order as I need some reagents soon ( a slam will run through them lol )
The only part of floating the pucks over the winter is the pool isn't looked after daily and should the floater fall apart and the pucks drop to the floor lots of harm can be had. I have seen this scenario twice and it wasn't pretty
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,088
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
