Bypass Hayward Aqua Plus

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J

john38

Member
Oct 4, 2022
9
Memphis
Inside the Hayward Aqua Plus control panel is a Siemens "frame" that secures the circuit breakers.
The plastic broke, allowing the breakers to come loose, cascading into a myriad of electrical problems.
Since the T- 15 cell is dying (ten years old) and I want a more efficient pump, what pump with control panel, and chlorine generator, also w/ control, would all of you recommend ? I want to take the Aqua Plus out of the equation.
Current pump is 1.25 HP (SF 1) with a 24k gallon pool.

Thanks

P.S. The circuit breaker for the pool equipment located in the house's electrical panel, shorted out and was replaced with a new one.
The new 50 amp breaker is showing voltage when on, but I'm still not getting any power at the pool end.
 

Board Repair

Thats an interesting idea skipping the oranges all together! The part I though might be a voltage regulator by its looks sits right behind the yellow fuse and infront of transformer. 3 prongs For the top orange and yellow to be in continuity does the K1 relay have to be activated?
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Board Repair

Where would that labeling be? On the panel that surrounds the CBs that you remove to expose the relays and wiring.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

1712678647069.png
 
JamesW said:
ProLogic, AquaLogic subpanel busbar assembly.

Bussbar assembly. Buss bar. Busbar.
View attachment 544741


www.cityelectricsupply.com

Siemens I0816ML1125CU Single-Phase Low Voltage Residential Specialty Load Center Interior, Main Lug, 8 Spaces, 125A, 120/240V

Load Center with residential application, 120/240 voltage rating. Ampere rating is 125 amperes. 1-Phase, 3-wire. Interrupt Rating is 100000AIC.
www.cityelectricsupply.com www.cityelectricsupply.com

View attachment 544742

View attachment 544743
I0816ML1125CU


View attachment 544748


View attachment 544749

View attachment 544765


View attachment 544767
Click to expand...
 
john38 said:
Inside the Hayward Aqua Plus control panel is a Siemens "frame" that secures the circuit breakers.
The plastic broke, allowing the breakers to come loose, cascading into a myriad of electrical problems.
Since the T- 15 cell is dying (ten years old) and I want a more efficient pump, what pump with control panel, and chlorine generator, also w/ control, would all of you recommend ? I want to take the Aqua Plus out of the equation.
Current pump is 1.25 HP (SF 1) with a 24k gallon pool.

Thanks

P.S. The circuit breaker for the pool equipment located in the house's electrical panel, shorted out and was replaced with a new one.
The new 50 amp breaker is showing voltage when on, but I'm still not getting any power at the pool end.
Click to expand...
What else is on that 50A circuit? That's huge for a pool equipment pad. You would need at least 6-gauge wire all the way to the pad for a circuit that large. To short a circuit breaker to where it needs replacing would require the wiring in the conduit to the equipment to have shorted, or a very large load that failed, and the breaker to not have tripped. If there is no power at the pad, that is likely why, wires burned in the conduit.
 
john38 said:
It would probably break again. If I replace the Aqua Plus, pump and chlorinator,
I'll probably put in a whole new breaker box.
Click to expand...
The plastic gets brittle as it gets older.

In any case, a new subpanel will have the same exact busbar assembly.

If you want a new system, maybe consider the IntelliCenter with an Intelliflo pump.
 
1poolman1 said:
What else is on that 50A circuit? That's huge for a pool equipment pad. You would need at least 6-gauge wire all the way to the pad for a circuit that large. To short a circuit breaker to where it needs replacing would require the wiring in the conduit to the equipment to have shorted, or a very large load that failed, and the breaker to not have tripped. If there is no power at the pad, that is likely why, wires burned in the conduit.
Click to expand...
There's a hayward heat pump also, but the breakers literally fell out of the frame, setting off the house CB.
I'm guessing if it's the lines in the conduit, a continuity check is in order.
Thanks
 

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JamesW said:
The plastic gets brittle as it gets older.

In any case, a new subpanel will have the same exact busbar assembly.

If you want a new system, maybe consider the IntelliCenter with an Intelliflo pump.
Click to expand...
I was speaking how any other company's product longevity, endurance etc.. compares with Hayward's'.
Their pump and chlorinater lasted, but to me, their control panels are . . .
 
If you have all Hayward equipment and want automation for it I would suggest the Aquarite S3 Omni. It has capabilities to control your SWG, heat pump, and filter pump. With I believe 2 high voltage relays for lights or whatever else you need.
 
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