Aurora semi inground pool

They’re generally pretty expedient so hopefully u will have a new pump soon.
Until then - liquid chlorine.
Do u have a submersible pump?
Yes I have a sump pump. The Hayward pump works once I spin the impeller and hit the power button. Can I continue to let it run until a new pump arrives or will they require I ship this one back before sending a new one ?
 
I would run it for now - keep an eye on it for sure.
Maybe bump up the fc incase it turns off & u don’t realize it.
Not sure if they will make u send it back -
Mine is a carvin/jacuzzi pump & was under warranty from family leisure- they told me to keep it/dispose of it.
My on/off switch just went bad so I eliminated it & ran the pump until the new one came in. I was using a timer anyway. Now I have a spare 👍🏻
 
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I called Pool factory yesterday - awesome customer service - they will be sending a new pump. They suggested if I have the same issue with the new pump to have the electrician come back and double check the pump is on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. I called the electrician today to stop by and check before the new pump arrives.
 
We are starting to backfill and I have a bonding question.. all resin pool, buried 27" on a concrete pad - fibermesh was used in the concrete. I have a skimmer plate to bond with the pump -
Do I need...
the loop of cooper wire around the perimeter of the pool ?
cooper wire attached to bolt in pool wall connection and connected to pump - skimmer plate wire ?
 
U need -
The loop around the pool 18-24” away from the pool wall & 4-6” deep
A water bond (usually in the skimmer via a plate or “bug”)
A pump bond
A swg bond
All these are to be tied together.


If the entire pool structure is non metallic - including the track around the bottom of the pool you are not required to attach the bond wire to the wall/track etc. according to the NEC.
If u are having it inspected some municipalities will still insist that u do the four points, so check on that since they are the ones who can pass or fail u (even if its wrong or makes no sense)
You must comply with the version of the code that they enforce.
Here’s a good synopsis of 2014 NEC requirements 👇
 
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U need -
The loop around the pool 18-24” away from the pool wall & 4-6” deep
A water bond (usually in the skimmer via a plate or “bug”)
A pump bond
A swg bond
All these are to be tied together.


If the entire pool structure is non metallic - including the track around the bottom of the pool you are not required to attach the bond wire to the wall/track etc. according to the NEC.
If u are having it inspected some municipalities will still insist that u do the four points, so check on that since they are the ones who can pass or fail u (even if its wrong or makes no sense)
You must comply with the version of the code that they enforce.
Here’s a good synopsis of 2014 NEC requirements 👇
Thank you. The pool is all resin except where the walls connect. There it has a stainless steel thin bar on each side of the wall and the bolts to hold the wall together.
 
We are having the pool hard plumbed tomorrow and the Circulpool RJ60+ installed. I do not have a timer for the pump and SWG. I leave the pump running 24/7. Is that sufficient or do I need a timer ?
 
We are having the pool hard plumbed tomorrow and the Circulpool RJ60+ installed. I do not have a timer for the pump and SWG. I leave the pump running 24/7. Is that sufficient or do I need a timer ?

You do not need a timer if you run the pump 24/7.

You must remember to turn off the SWG anytime you turn off the pump. I would put a placard on the pump switch saying TURN OFF SWG.
 
We are having the pool hard plumbed tomorrow and the Circulpool RJ60+ installed. I do not have a timer for the pump and SWG. I leave the pump running 24/7. Is that sufficient or do I need a timer ?
U may want a timer so u aren’t limited to just the percentage settings of the swg. I hope u are running the pump on low 24/7 . 💰
There’s no need to run it on high unless u are vacuuming, it just wastes energy.
I have my pump on a timer that has two female plugs- when I upgrade my swg I will plug it into that too.
Whatever u do, u need to ensure that the swg cannot operate if the pump is off. Having them on the same power source/timer accomplishes that . The flow switch is to be a secondary failsafe not primary.
 
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Also there’s only 2 reasons to run the pump-
To effectively remove debris to your liking
& so the swg has enough time to produce the fc necessary
 
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It looks like running that unit 24/7 @ 20% should produce 3.4ppm fc a day- not sure how low u can adjust it. Some only go in 25% increments.
This is the timer I use.
NSi Industries TORK RHB32R Indoor/Outdoor 15-Amp Plug-in Heavy Duty Mechanical Timer 24-Hour Programming – GREEN & RED Trippers TWO Receptacles Black Cover https://a.co/d/7JOzewZ
 
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I cannot say enough about the Pool Factory's customer service.
1) Original pump stopped working properly after 5 days (had to manually spin the impeller for the pump to start) , Pool Factory sends a replacement pump
2) Replacement pump was a 1 hp, 1 speed and the original was 1.5 hp, 2 speed. Pool Factory sends 2nd replacement pump and we send back the 1st replacement pump
3) 2nd replacement arrives, our pool guy cuts the pvc fittings, removes original pump that we had been starting by manually spinning the impeller, hard plumbs the 2nd replacement pump only to discover it has a crack in the housing right where the lid gets screwed on. So he cuts the pvc pipes, reinstalls the original pump and decides to make sure all the wires for the starter switch are tight before spinning the impeller. Turns on the pump and it works like it should. I start a ticket online with the Pool Factory on the 2nd replacement pump.
4) This morning Pool Factory calls and says they will send out a replacement housing and all we have to do is remove a clip and switch out the housing. I remind them that we still have the original pump and can switch out the housing on it and explain how the original pump is working now but we are concerned it might start having issues again. No problem.. they want us to keep the 2nd replacement pump and the original pump and if it the original acts up we have a spare pump. They are also going to make a note in our record about the pump issues and said they would make it right if any problems arise with the pumps.

Happy customer !
 
When I turn the handle on my multiport filter valve it makes a squeaky noise - like air being slowly released from a balloon. It does not make the noise when it is on filter and closed but all the other ports it will make the noise. The noise starts as soon as it is out of the filter or closed port. Also it makes a crackling sound after turning the pump from high to lo.


Also I am not sure I like the PVC plumbing. There were 5 couplings with slow drips that had to be replaced today. We first thought it was because when he installed the pvc plumbing the heat index was 103 degrees and perhaps a small area of glue dried faster than usual ? Now we think it was because he used 2" couplings rather than 4" because after he replaced the leaking 2" couplings with 4" there is now another 2" coupling leaking but none of the 4' are leaking - he will replace it tomorrow. Anyway.. replacing a hose seems so much easier than replacing pvc pipes. Hopefully, no more leaks and the pvc plumbing will win me over.
 
If u have the pump off - it may make air noises as u pass between selections as the vessel has pressure built up in it & u are opening different ports which directs the air inside (& the water when it’s running) to a new place.
My handle squeaks when i move it too.
Always move it in the same direction 🔁.
I only go clockwise.
 
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The crackling you’re hearing is likely a little air moving through the lines. Mine will do the same when I have the pump off, manipulate the system and then restart. In my case it goes away after a couple of minutes.

Do you see and air in your pump strainer when it drops to low speed? The are some cases where this is commonplace on VS pumps in the low setting and a bubble forms in the basket. This could contribute to the crackling you are hearing on low speed.

By 2” and 4” fittings are you referring to length? If so, sounds like your guy may have used DWV couplings which are not pressure rated. They will have a DWV marking on them indicating they are. Any rate if they were used, their shoulder is not nearly as deep as a pressure rated fitting and could be contributing the leak problem.
 
The crackling you’re hearing is likely a little air moving through the lines. Mine will do the same when I have the pump off, manipulate the system and then restart. In my case it goes away after a couple of minutes.

Do you see and air in your pump strainer when it drops to low speed? The are some cases where this is commonplace on VS pumps in the low setting and a bubble forms in the basket. This could contribute to the crackling you are hearing on low speed.

By 2” and 4” fittings are you referring to length? If so, sounds like your guy may have used DWV couplings which are not pressure rated. They will have a DWV marking on them indicating they are. Any rate if they were used, their shoulder is not nearly as deep as a pressure rated fitting and could be contributing the leak problem.
Yes there is air in the pump strainer, right under the dome of the lid.
Yes 2" and 4" length. I will have to look tomorrow to see what couplings he used. If they are all DWV will they all have to be replaced ?
 

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